another squealing brake thread
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,278
Likes: 1,658
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
I've had my share of squeaks in our fleet, usually rubbing the brake pad braking surface on a rough cement surface cured it, there's a lot of silica around here and sometimes they get inbeded into the brake pad and caused all type of screeching.
Also.
Is there any slop in the sliding pin bores? Does left and right sliding pins have that rubber jacket on? I'm thinking the caliper is flexing a little allowing something to hit the rotor?
Also.
Is there any slop in the sliding pin bores? Does left and right sliding pins have that rubber jacket on? I'm thinking the caliper is flexing a little allowing something to hit the rotor?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,635
Likes: 564
I have one more thing to try. I think that pistons in the driver side caliper are wonky. Meaning, I think one piston makes more contact with the pad than the other when the brakes are released. I'm not even sure if thats possible, but I think that is whats happening. Think im gonna try a new caliper on that side.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,122
Likes: 4,725
From: Henderson, NV
I seem to recall the Hawk pad bedding procedure was different in the past.
Current:
1. To break in the new components, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30 to 35 MPH applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 MPH.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. Your brakes are now ready for use and can be driven normally.
That's a lot of stops. IIRC the old advice was moderately aggressive braking 3 or 5 times from 60ish to 20ish to get them hot, but never come to a stop. Stopping allows transfer of pad material to the rotor and is to be strongly avoided. After getting them hot just keep driving for 10 minutes to cool them off before coming to a stop.
Anybody else recall that?
Current:
1. To break in the new components, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30 to 35 MPH applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 MPH.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. Your brakes are now ready for use and can be driven normally.
That's a lot of stops. IIRC the old advice was moderately aggressive braking 3 or 5 times from 60ish to 20ish to get them hot, but never come to a stop. Stopping allows transfer of pad material to the rotor and is to be strongly avoided. After getting them hot just keep driving for 10 minutes to cool them off before coming to a stop.
Anybody else recall that?
Unless you're like me where every stretch of road between red lights is a drag strip with no shutdown area so you come to a screeching halt at the next red light. That's when discs warp for real.
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ap8402
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
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Apr 14, 2009 07:02 AM
