no it steers fine now

 

Guess the self centering force of the castor angle is enough to compensate for the single direction force of running one steering damper. Good to know, thanks.
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I just installed dual stabilizers on mine and can answer this. The stabilizers (dual or single) does not act like a shock which what I think you are thinking of. For example you push a shock down and it comes back up. A stabilizer will stay in the down position. It just creates resistance moving to what ever position. With the duals you just have double the resistance of movement.

 

Guess your dual dampers are different than mine, because both mine push (in opposite directions) with a decent bit of force. Never tried just running one, but I'm guessing it might give the steering a bit of pull to one side.

The IFP (internal floating piston) type dampers don't exert force at rest, but dang are they expensive. I'm running an IFP damper on another truck, but having used rough country stuff in the past, its a safe bet that they're not using IFP dampers (Rough Country stuff is good for what it is, but it is more on the budget end of the parts spectrum).

 

I would just have it rewelded. That first weld wasn't very good. Ask the welder to add a short piece of angle iron over the weld to reinforce that area.

 

Yeah i am running rough country and before i put them on i messed around with them. They stayed in whatever position i set them in. So if i pushed them down there was no spring back, guess i assumed all stabilizer were like this, my bad.

 

Update

I decided to go with the Rough Country dual stabilizer V2 setup just because it has some better stabilizers.

I found a local metal shop that was willing to copy the existing bracket for the passenger side but make the upper section long enough so that it could cover all 4 leaf spring bolts that way I don't have to worry about having the steering (which is now mounted at a lower elevation on the bolt) adding too much additional torque stress which would put more stress on the bolt hole with the crack running into it. In order to run this setup I also had to order a 2" leveling kit so that the it doesn't bang around on the tie rod or drag link. Since I will still have to utilize the existing & broken axle "saddle" for the spring u-bolts, the metal shop welder agreed to put a more proper weld onto the bracket and coat it so that I don't have to worry about the weld getting corroded and weakened with all of the road salts up north.

Hopefully with both parts, and a guy with 35 years of experience welding, this thing ought to hold out, at least for the next 7k miles or so until I'm settled in Texas and can crank out a monster replacement bracket on my own. I'll post an update after everything comes in and I get it sorted. In the meantime, if anyone has any bright ideas of how to improve on this I'm all ears.

 

let me know if you wanna get rid of all the stock stabilizer hardware

 

This makes no sense to me.

The leveling kit won't raise the location of the steering knuckle on the axle which is what the tie rod connects to and the drag link is above the tie rod anyway.

Does the dual steering stabilizer kit you bought mount in a different location than the two pictures earlier in this thread?

Post edit:
Here's what I'm talking about, the tie rod (circled in red) won't change with a leveling or lift kit as its connected to the steering knuckles on both ends.




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The rubbing concern is the steering drag link and the track bar. While at stock level stabilizer will work without issues but on some extreme angles like front drivers side tire compressed I could see possible rubbing issues.

 

According to the sales guy at rough country, if your springs are sagging (mine do a bit) then when you hit a hard bump you risk having the tie rod impact. He says that's why there's a bit of a drop on the bracket as well. Is it some sales voodoo? Possibly....but right now I don't care so long as I can get this thing back on the road asap because I have another 3200 mile round trip in about a week. Once I get settled back in Texas, I already have plans to raise it up properly and I'm going to run bigger tires so I didn't want to spend an awful lot of money on this setup, just enough to last me a few months safely while I have to run back and forth from Maryland. I'll do a write up when I get to that point because I have a brush guard in the barn and a set of 40x13.5 toyo open country and 17" rims with I thiiiink 4.5" backspacing that my brother just took off of his truck that he is begging me to put on it. Not sure how I feel about going that tall with all of the body roll, but there's definitely some good looking ones out there if it's done properly.

 

Um, No. The tie rod can't move independent or relative to the axle, its connected to the dang steering knuckles via ball joints on both ends (which are both below the springs and connected to the axle via the steering ball joints). Only way the tie rod moves relative to the axle is of something breaks (something like a steering knuckle or one of the ball joints).

Maybe the sales guy you spoke with was confusing it with a Y- type steering setup (like Jeeps and some Dodges have), but on a T-type steering setup (like is factory on the Excursion), tie rod movement independent the axle tube just isn't a thing.
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You'll hit bump stop (or frame if the bump stop is gone) way before the suspension flexes enough to make the drag link low enough to hit the steering stabilizers. That would require the steering box pitman arm to be level with, or below, the steering knuckle for that to happen.
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Well you will have to take that up with rough country who makes the kit. Its posted in all their listings about must have 2" lift. Those are the only two item that move with a lift.

 

I have the stock hardware if wanted.