Hi guys, as I've already mentioned, I just picked up a 1977 F150 4x4 long bed pickup. I've learned along the way that people don't often tell the truth and a recent service means years and not months; we seem to have different definitions regarding the word "recent".
Could anyone advise me on what fluids I should be replacing other than engine oil and filter?
Also what type and quantities?
Also, can I buy these parts locally or do I need to order online?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
I've bought the Ford Truck Shop manual on CD but it's pretty labor-intensive trying to find out information on the simpler tasks.

 

Unless you know the history I'd change the oil in the diffs, transmission and transfer case. everything you need should be in stock at any parts house.

One thing that's useful is to go to O'Rielly's website and use their parts finder . even if you don't use them it will tell you what you need and if it's available through a normal outlet. just enter your vehicle and then search, I use it all the time.

 

A cheap Chilton or Haynes manual ($12.00 at most auto parts houses) will cover the basic tune up and maintenance until you get more familiar with the OEM manuals. Things like fluid quantities are covered in an easily laid out book. While you are there get the fluid stuff, also get the items to do a basic tune up like plugs, plug wires, distributor cab, rotor bug, pvc valve, air filter. Plug gap is covered in the cheap book.

Oil/oil filter yes, I am not going to make suggestions on what oil/filter to use because everyone has a lot of different opinions and some feel very strong about it. I will suggest to use quality high mileage oil, but IMO no need for costly synthetic. I hope I did not open a can or worms by just saying that.

X2 on both differentials fluid changed out. I'd use quality 80/90 gear lube, you either take the differential cover off the front axle (a new gasket is highly recommended) and drain it that way (best way to get all the gunk in the bottom out and insp everything in there). Or use a large gauge syringe and a piece of tubing thru the fill port on the front of the cove, but the gunk in the bottom will probably still be there. FYI 80/90 is a very thick fluid and does not syringe well especially when cold. Drive it to warm up the fluid, to make it at least a little easier. Again another reason to pull the front cover quicker to drain. Come fill up time, fill it until it is level with the bottom of the fill port.

For the rear 9" rear axle there should be a fill plug on the front dvrs side, 3/8 ratchet head or 3/8 extension fits in it. Again with the syringe and tube to drain it, other wise it is 3rd member pulling time and that involves pulling the axle shafts, rear drive shaft. And probably not the road you want to travel at this time. Again with the warmer fluid is easier to syringe out.

Transmission... Insp for red color (or is it burnt brown along with a burnt smell) C-6 trans does not have a pan drain plug, it drains in a giant mess when you remove the bottom pan. And that does not get the fluid in the torque convertor out. Filter is right there, also insp the magnet in the pan corner for chunks, flakes and glitter, that will let you know how it is doing. Amounts to use are in the cheap book.

Transfer case (NP-205), uses 80/90 fluid, drains better when warm. Drain plug on the back, fill port on the back also and of course higher on the case body. Again fill to be level with the top fill port edge.

I'd stop right there for the basic fluids to change out on a new to me truck. But the list below are considerations to check since the hood is up.
Radiator coolant, is it just water or a faint green?
Brake fluid rusty looking or fairly clean?
P/S steering fluid look red, smell burnt?

Also do a basic light bulb check, headlights, brake lights, turning signals (front and rear), side markers, dome. You do know that turning the headlight switch counter clockwise should brighten up the dash lights. If you full turn it to and past a click, it should turn on the dome light with with the doors closed.

 

Thanks, guys, excellent advice as usual.

 

I'd flush out the brake system at some point. I've been surprised a couple times on how much just putting all new fluid in the system has made the braking better. If it's never been changed the fluid can absorb enough moisture to make the fluid spongy under pressure.

 

The brakes are actually pretty good, but I will replace the fluid at some point.

 

Auto transmission was brought up but if you have a manual transmission it will also get 80/90 gear oil

BUT YOU NEED TO USE OIL MARKED GL4!
Most you find at the stores is GL5 and can hurt the yellow metal in manual transmissions.
I am running Red Line MT-90in my NP435 and my Advance Adapters over drive. With the RL oil it shifts better cold & hot over the 80/90 oil.
The RL is not cheap and I had to order it on line, no stores had it.
Dave ----

 

Yeah, it's auto but thanks for the heads-up.