Low power issue
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 337
Likes: 5
From: Chickaloon, Alaska
If you have the oem STC quick connect lines you can get a STC cap for one, and then you could see if a local hydraulic shop has an STC adapter to go to your gauge fitting. You could deadhead the pump this way very easily.
simply cap a line and hook other to gauge and crank. Should get about 4,200 psi
This works because with no hpo going to the head the icp sensor will read zero and when cranked from ignition, the pcm will command the ipr to close trying to get icp. The only time this may not work is if the ipr has failed and will not close when commanded(of course then a new ipr may solve the whole issue)
simply cap a line and hook other to gauge and crank. Should get about 4,200 psi
This works because with no hpo going to the head the icp sensor will read zero and when cranked from ignition, the pcm will command the ipr to close trying to get icp. The only time this may not work is if the ipr has failed and will not close when commanded(of course then a new ipr may solve the whole issue)
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 337
Likes: 5
From: Chickaloon, Alaska
. My local hydraulic shop is an hour away along with most other stores.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 337
Likes: 5
From: Chickaloon, Alaska
Well the update is that the hydraulic shop is 4 week wait time on the fittings for testing the hpop and it would be about $60 for fittings plus $20-$60 for shipping........Looking into a new hpop and its a 2-3 week wait for a CNC stage 1 from 1023 or CNC.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
The thread in the pump is a -6 o-ring boss and the heads are -5 ORB if that helps you figure out a work around before dropping the coin. Have you checked for any leaks at the high pressure plugs in the heads? Some of them can be hard to spot unless you break out the flashlight and give them a good once over.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 337
Likes: 5
From: Chickaloon, Alaska
The thread in the pump is a -6 o-ring boss and the heads are -5 ORB if that helps you figure out a work around before dropping the coin. Have you checked for any leaks at the high pressure plugs in the heads? Some of them can be hard to spot unless you break out the flashlight and give them a good once over.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 337
Likes: 5
From: Chickaloon, Alaska
This kit.
https://1023diesel.com/cnc-fabricati...nt-hpop-lines/
Stopped at 1023 yesterday but they don't have HPOP's in stock. One of those things you have to order out. Gave some recommendations to check for any leaks at all including the back of the head plugs. But all the leaks I have right now is my thermostat housing gasket.
https://1023diesel.com/cnc-fabricati...nt-hpop-lines/
Stopped at 1023 yesterday but they don't have HPOP's in stock. One of those things you have to order out. Gave some recommendations to check for any leaks at all including the back of the head plugs. But all the leaks I have right now is my thermostat housing gasket.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
This kit.
https://1023diesel.com/cnc-fabricati...nt-hpop-lines/
Stopped at 1023 yesterday but they don't have HPOP's in stock. One of those things you have to order out. Gave some recommendations to check for any leaks at all including the back of the head plugs. But all the leaks I have right now is my thermostat housing gasket.
https://1023diesel.com/cnc-fabricati...nt-hpop-lines/
Stopped at 1023 yesterday but they don't have HPOP's in stock. One of those things you have to order out. Gave some recommendations to check for any leaks at all including the back of the head plugs. But all the leaks I have right now is my thermostat housing gasket.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 144
Likes: 24
From: Dallas, OR
I wouldn't rule out the IPR based on an OHM test. I had a gremlin where the truck would miss at light driving conditions when heat saturated but ran fine under other conditions. It also had the same idle recovery issue you mentioned all the time. I replaced the IPR and it resolved both issues. The new IPR and old one OHM'd out the same on the bench. I suspect the resistance would have been different if the old one was at 200+ degrees.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,855
Likes: 2,332
From: WV
I wouldn't rule out the IPR based on an OHM test. I had a gremlin where the truck would miss at light driving conditions when heat saturated but ran fine under other conditions. It also had the same idle recovery issue you mentioned all the time. I replaced the IPR and it resolved both issues. The new IPR and old one OHM'd out the same on the bench. I suspect the resistance would have been different if the old one was at 200+ degrees.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 337
Likes: 5
From: Chickaloon, Alaska
Does anyone happen to know what size fittings the CNC lines are? They look like aviation fittings but Im not positive. I would like to hook up my gauge to them to see what my HPOP is putting out.
CNCFAB
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 4,874
Likes: 2,006
they are -6an flair fittings on the lines
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 337
Likes: 5
From: Chickaloon, Alaska
ok thanks that’s what I was thinking it looked like but wanted to make sure they were the right flare angle. I work aviation so we have plenty of those fittings around and should be able to plumb it to a gauge.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 337
Likes: 5
From: Chickaloon, Alaska
So after fixing the wifes car dealing with several rain storms and a fire call. I finally got the new lines installed today. I deadheaded the passenger line with a plug and installed the gauge on the drivers side HPOP line. Test was done cold as I had just got done for the night. Now I am leaning towards injectors unless it could be the ICP which isn't very old from RiffRaff in the last 4 months. Heres the youtube link.