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I only cut open the wiper cowl area and pushed the firewall in a little below that. I did not fill that area back in at all. I made some mock up pieces but found that the wiper armature inside the cowl would contact anything I put inside to open this area up. Keep in mind that you'll likely need clearance not only to get the intake to fit when it is installed, but also to be able to remove the intake after the motor is installed. I curled up the edges of the hole I cut, and created a diverter under the wiper valence to keep water from running down the back of the motor so much when it rains, though I don't think that was really necessary.
I also installed my intake 180° from how you show above. Much easier to run intake tubing on that side of the engine bay.
Great info, thanks. It's a fair weather truck, even so need to make sure it can handle some rain, so thanks for the tip. Any chance youd be able to post a couple pics of the firewall and or plumbing? I've been imagining a completely different setup with the box inlet to the driver, curious to see how you made it work.
Great info, thanks. It's a fair weather truck, even so need to make sure it can handle some rain, so thanks for the tip. Any chance youd be able to post a couple pics of the firewall and or plumbing? I've been imagining a completely different setup with the box inlet to the driver, curious to see how you made it work.
Thanks
I have to do some wrenching on the truck today so I'll get you some pics.
Here's the pics of the engine bay I promised. Pay no attention to the wiring disaster under the hood. Currently working on tidying this up and removing a bunch of unused wires. Previous owner had a carb'd motor in the truck with a bundle of all red wires powering the whole truck and had this thing all fubar'd. Should have just bought a different harness and started over.
First pic shows how I have the intake routed. I had the filter pointing down before I moved the battery to the box of the truck. With it pointed sideways, it's more in line with the air flow from the grille. I just made a little bracket off the alternator for the tubing to sit on, and then hose clamped it to the bracket. Works pretty well.
2nd pic is a good shot of how much I cut out. Like I said before, I cut out just enough that I can lift the upper intake off the studs and clear the cowl.
Third pic is a shot from the front.
This is the part of the post where I tell you that I should have knocked on wood when I said I've never had trouble with water getting into the motor. Moved the truck on Friday and checked the oil to find that I had a large milkshake in the motor. The little PCV valve hole plug at the rear of the intake had come out at some point and seems to have collected a bunch of water...I only ran the truck for a minute like that so I'm not worried about damage but I'm going to plug that thing permanently now. Several years without issue prior to this. Good thing I caught it now though. This thing is going to see an extended period of 6500 RPM this weekend. Certainly would have wiped the bearings out. Moral of the story I guess, plug that hole.
This is great information! I appreciate the time you took to reply with pics. Have to make a run to summit before final mochup, but hope to have it cut and dealt with this week.
I figured running the throttle body on the passenger side for the best throttle cable hook up location. Managed to cut out and bend back the firewall without burning the house down. Tonight I got the plenum set and installed, and the harness matches up closer than I would have hoped for the TPS and IAC. Still need to get the various vacuum fittings and intake tubing.
After hooking up the throttle I gave the pedal a feel from the driver seat and its very stiff and coarse, too much so to drive.
What I have pictured below is the Accufab TB, bolted to their spacer is a fox throttle cable bracket, which I attached the stock truck cable to. The collar on the cable and seat in the bracket were dissimilar, but the bolt and washers holds it nice, as bad as it looks.
My question to GNR22 is what cable and cable bracket combo are you running on your project? I don't know about compatibility of mustang vs. truck throttle cables, but I suspect if I can get a shorter one that doesnt have to loop under the trans tunnel (as picutured), then taking out some slack and bend radius might help?
The cable I have is slightly more complex. I'm using part of a Lokar cable, and part of the stock cable. I can get more pictures if I remember. Here's the Lokar cable: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Lokar...Kit,22046.html
Basically, I have the Lokar cable sheath with the stock wire cable inside of it. Can't remember why the lokar one didn't work, I think the ends are wrong for a truck application. In any case, I ran the stock cable through the Lokar sheath, clipped the end onto the ball on the throttle body, put the cable through the top of the throttle pedal and used the lokar clamp deal to set the length on the wire and trimmed off the excess. Pretty painless.
So far I've got the throttle cable sorted out, went with a hybrid between the two cables. Got the serpentine system in that got all those unused pulleys out of the way, freeing up some room too.
What I have now is the intake filter coming straight down from the elbow off the throttle body ending at the EVP charcoal canister. Got rid of the cartridge and bracket, and looks like a good fit for the intake tube and filter.
Before I wire over the MAF harness and plumb the PCV system, wanted to get you all's opinion on the intake location. There is that rectangular opening in the core support to get some decent air to the filter, but as you can see it's up against the radiator shroud. Not sure what impact it has being adjacent to the radiator, or if I'd be better off going up higher with it by tucking the filter behind the battery? fab up a heat shield of some kind? Moving battery is not my preference though. What do you all think?
The intake should be fine there. Obviously having it boxed and only pulling air outside the bay is ideal. With the configuration mine is in, a little higher than yours, intake air temp is only ever a few degrees above ambient temperature at low speeds. Anything higher than 30 mph and it's about the same as ambient. Idling in one spot the temps come up a little bit but nothing outrageous.
That is a terrible place for the MAF meter.. the fan wash will wreak havoc with airflow over the sensor. Is the meter really molded into the filter housing? Ideally the meter should be a foot or more from the filter with smooth tubing between them. If you have to use what you got I think the filter will need to be shielded from the rad a little better... maybe put a box around it so it can only draw air through the rad support.
I agree with the assessment from an air flow/turbulence aspect, and on housing spacing. To answer your question, the sample tube is molded into the housing, but it's a few inches long ahead of the sensor. The design is intended to quiet down the MAF signal, while being resistant to fan wash specifically, got this from there rep myself over the phone. Regardless, I'm anxious to get a data log and evaluate the quality of MAF signal as well as intake air temps at hot idle. I'll follow up on that when she's running, and put pro-m's design to the test.
All that being said, my concern was moreso the air intake temps, but that and the air turbulence are both able to be looked at so we'll see!
So I got the MAF harness extended nice and tidey, wrap up the coolant system, then figure it's been 200 miles on the engine might as well change the oil. Cracked open the drain plug and got a few ounces of bright green coolant, then the rest was clean oil after. I want to believe this coolant fell in the lifter valley when I pulled off the manifold, but I did have the coolant down when I removed it. I don't want to panic, and figure I can prove if it's from the intake swap if I pressure test the coolant system.
If it checks out, I'll top off the oil, prime the pump, and send it.
Sprung for the coolant pressure tester to make sure the system was holding, and it did. Got everything up and running, and took out for a spin.
The new induction really wakes up the x303, on my first WOT pull I got out of it at 5,000 rpm because I wasn't prepared for that amount of power. Below 2500 rpm it feels the same, as I suspected Everything working well, and drivability is unaffected by the 90mm TB. Still have to dial in the tune, but the upgrade is amazing so far, night and day difference. Thank you all for your input and responses, it's truly appreciated.
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