So I finally was able to crack (loosen) all 4 valves on my 2002 F-250 (223,000 miles). I have to replace the Master Cylinder so I am trying to get small problems out of the way. My question is "When putting in new ones, can I apply "Anit-Seize" when I screw new ones in?

 

I think adding a very small amount to the threads shouldn't cause issues. Torque value will be slightly reduced since the threads are now lubricated.

 

Interesting question....I did a little searching, seems to be the typical case of maybe not a great idea but also probably will work out just fine if you do.

My initial inclination was Teflon tape instead, and that was suggested a lot in my search. A few guys said they put anti-seize on every bleeder they touch, but a majority said SOP is to use nothing on bleeder threads.

The valid point I saw was keep it off the conical sealing surface. I used to work building roller boxes for HDPE pipeline liners....essentially they shove a liner of a given diameter thru progressively smaller rollers, temporarily reducing the OD so a wireline truck can use a pig and more easily pull the liner through a run. Anyway, we built all the hydraulic hoses in-house with a Parker machine and we used Rectum Seal (er ok it's Rector) on EVERY fitting, but we were careful to keep it off conical seats if it wasn't just basic NPT. Of course we did this to reduce the possibility of leaks, not for rust per se....but the point is they're both a paste you slather on the threads with a brush.

Seems like there'd be a market for SS bleeders, eh?

 

SSTL bleeder screws would be a nightmare. SSTL is kinda soft and the threads gall rather easily.

 

Wouldn't Teflon tape go through some "melting" especially sitting in these areas that can get fairly HOT? Anyway, I bought some (valves) from NAPA today and while I tested one out they do fit. The ones that are in currently are "God knows how old" and have a beefier nut at the top. The new ones have that thinner nut that scream "I will break and strip easily". The nut size is a 10mm and the threads are in the area says the NAPA people of "3/8-24"? Seems odd that they are not a metric thread. 10mm threads and 3/8" are closest but 9mm might be a fit too. I am not sure if these calipers are even original anymore but I would think there would be consistency throughout the brake component industry.

 

I have used never seize on bleed screws for 45 years with out a problem

 

That occurred to me too! Although it would depend on the grade of stainless and IME galling is worst stainless-to-stainless. I machine some 440C that basically sucks to work because of the case hardening. Although this would likely make bleeder valves cost prohibitive LOL

As for melting thread tape....I dunno but it's been commonly used to aid in bleeding for, well....ever. According to the interweb Teflon itself changes properties at 500F but doesn't "melt" until 620F. Useless trivia for the day......

 

Be careful! M10X1.0 is rare but it is a thing. It's basically the "extra fine" of the M10 world (I had to buy a tap for a spark plug in school for my 4-stroke engine)

Don't try to cram a 3/8-24 in there. Yeah it'll be close as 25.4/24 isn't too far off 1.0

According to RA you need a Raybestos S23925 which Summit Racing then lists as M10x1.0

 

So, through some early trial and error observations. Installed new bleeder valve, cleaned off caliper and looking for any "spotting" of liquid. I had dried off the area and waited. 30 minutes later, noticed some wetness on the area near the top of the caliper. Removed new bleeder valve, wrapped it in Teflon Tape, dried off the area now waiting for the 12:30pm observation. Can you tell that I'm off today? Now, no visible leakage from the newly wrapped bleeder valve, so Teflon Tape is the answer in this case.
Also noted that 3 out of my 4 Caliper are Ford parts. I knew one was replaced and it's not a Ford Caliper. The one I was testing it on was the "front Ford Caliper". Now on to change the other 3 Bleeder Valves....

 

Since so many calipers are reman'd a Ford logo doesn't always mean much unless you know the history of the truck. VERY common to get Cardones from AZ or O'Reilly with the Ford logo

 

If you replace your brake fluid once in a while and keep the rubber caps on the bleeders you will never need anti seize
That said, anti seize will not hurt
Good on ya for getting them loose