No fuel
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Freshman User
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Nitty gritty
There should never be power on the black wire assuming it is connected to ground as it is supposed to be. In order to provide power to the pumps the Pink/Black wire should have power. As stated earlier power is applied for only 1-2 seconds when you cycle the key from the Off to Run position. To disable that timer you need to jumper Pins 2 and 6 on the self test connector then turn the key to the Run position.
Take the cover off the self test connector then use a jumper on Pins 2 and 6 from the front side.
Take the cover off the self test connector then use a jumper on Pins 2 and 6 from the front side.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 256
Likes: 30
From: San Jose, CA
@carl2315 That is correct, if it's wired up correctly. My guess is you have bad wiring. test for continuity for the power and signal wires to the pump from their sources, you are obviously not getting voltage. Also check the fuel pump and computer grounds for good connections. You can also visually look at the wires to see if any are damaged.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 256
Likes: 30
From: San Jose, CA
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Freshman User
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@carl2315 If I were you I would replace that inertia switch. Did you try even just resetting the switch? The fuel pump will never run if that switch is open. You said there was no power coming through the switch so I would start there.
The 15amp fuse and green and brown relay have both been changed due to low voltage. The power problem comes down to the inertia switch and fuel pump wiring.
I’ve stated that the wires from the fuel pump connect to a 12prong relay. No power is on that line on either side (as in the pink/black wire that connect to said relay has no power on the other side where that wire is supposed to be fed power) now where that wire leads no clue but my guess would be to the inertia switch since that’s where the pump also gets its power from
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 256
Likes: 30
From: San Jose, CA
The inertia switch is plugged in and set when grounded there is no power.
The 15amp fuse and green and brown relay have both been changed due to low voltage. The power problem comes down to the inertia switch and fuel pump wiring.
I’ve stated that the wires from the fuel pump connect to a 12prong relay. No power is on that line on either side (as in the pink/black wire that connect to said relay has no power on the other side where that wire is supposed to be fed power) now where that wire leads no clue but my guess would be to the inertia switch since that’s where the pump also gets its power from
The 15amp fuse and green and brown relay have both been changed due to low voltage. The power problem comes down to the inertia switch and fuel pump wiring.
I’ve stated that the wires from the fuel pump connect to a 12prong relay. No power is on that line on either side (as in the pink/black wire that connect to said relay has no power on the other side where that wire is supposed to be fed power) now where that wire leads no clue but my guess would be to the inertia switch since that’s where the pump also gets its power from
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Freshman User
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I would agree. So we know that's where the circuit brakes so I would just replace that switch. It's gotta be bad. Pick up a Duralast one from AutoZone and see if that fixes your issue. You can check the switch before deciding to replace it by testing for continuity across the switch (resistance).
if so I made a jump wire and plugged it into the two slots where the wire connects to. I went and turnt the key over no hum. Unless it has to be plugged in in order for it to work.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 256
Likes: 30
From: San Jose, CA
Use a multimeter to test the resistance between the lead wire and end wire. There could be a bad connection within the switch that jumping would not solve. If you jumped and still didn't get voltage after the switch than there's still a break in the circuit
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Freshman User
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bet I seen a video I’m going to try that
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@james_1988f250
i feel like I should add this. Before any of this took place I changed the spark plugs. And the truck ran me all the way home. I went to crank it up it again and it died out. Next day I Changed out the rotor button It started back up and ran me out into the middle of the street and just died for no reason, but it was like one of those I’m slowly cutting off but I don’t want to. I assumed it was a gas problem because that was the only other cause I could think of that would stop it from starting or continually running. As we speak the truck has spark on each spark plug and even at the ignition coil. I’m really just throwing this in there because I don’t want to think I just jumped the gun, but I’m like 95% sure it’s a fuel oroblem
and to go even further I’ve sprayed some ether in there and it cranked just wouldn’t stay running
i feel like I should add this. Before any of this took place I changed the spark plugs. And the truck ran me all the way home. I went to crank it up it again and it died out. Next day I Changed out the rotor button It started back up and ran me out into the middle of the street and just died for no reason, but it was like one of those I’m slowly cutting off but I don’t want to. I assumed it was a gas problem because that was the only other cause I could think of that would stop it from starting or continually running. As we speak the truck has spark on each spark plug and even at the ignition coil. I’m really just throwing this in there because I don’t want to think I just jumped the gun, but I’m like 95% sure it’s a fuel oroblem
and to go even further I’ve sprayed some ether in there and it cranked just wouldn’t stay running
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 256
Likes: 30
From: San Jose, CA
Definitely seems like a fuel problem, I would not see it being an ignition problem. However, that doesn't mean it couldn't be an electrical problem in the fuel system especially since you just replaced all your pumps. Check your connections, check for continuity across the inertia switch, and visually check all wires powering and signaling the system.
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Freshman User
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Definitely seems like a fuel problem, I would not see it being an ignition problem. However, that doesn't mean it couldn't be an electrical problem in the fuel system especially since you just replaced all your pumps. Check your connections, check for continuity across the inertia switch, and visually check all wires powering and signaling the system.
still nothing even when I hot wired 2&6
on the relay. Also how would I check the wires that come out of the fuel pump to see if those work. That is the only thing I can think of other than having a break in the wires.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
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From: Kentucky
If there is no power after jumpering Pins 2 & 6 on the self test connector then you have to back again to verify the fuel pump relay is energizing and there is power for the fuel pump circuit.
This is a diagram for a 1989 model year truck, yours should be similar. This shows the EEC relay and the fuel pump relay. The Brown (BR) wire out of the load side contact of the fuel pump relay goes to the inertia switch.
Another quick test is remove the jumper from Pins 2 & 6 on the self test connector, then jumper Pin 6 to a good ground. If the fuel pump relay now energizes you may have lost the computer main ground, G203 located near the battery.
This is a diagram for a 1989 model year truck, yours should be similar. This shows the EEC relay and the fuel pump relay. The Brown (BR) wire out of the load side contact of the fuel pump relay goes to the inertia switch.
Another quick test is remove the jumper from Pins 2 & 6 on the self test connector, then jumper Pin 6 to a good ground. If the fuel pump relay now energizes you may have lost the computer main ground, G203 located near the battery.
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Freshman User
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If there is no power after jumpering Pins 2 & 6 on the self test connector then you have to back again to verify the fuel pump relay is energizing and there is power for the fuel pump circuit.
This is a diagram for a 1989 model year truck, yours should be similar. This shows the EEC relay and the fuel pump relay. The Brown (BR) wire out of the load side contact of the fuel pump relay goes to the inertia switch.
Another quick test is remove the jumper from Pins 2 & 6 on the self test connector, then jumper Pin 6 to a good ground. If the fuel pump relay now energizes you may have lost the computer main ground, G203 located near the battery.
This is a diagram for a 1989 model year truck, yours should be similar. This shows the EEC relay and the fuel pump relay. The Brown (BR) wire out of the load side contact of the fuel pump relay goes to the inertia switch.
Another quick test is remove the jumper from Pins 2 & 6 on the self test connector, then jumper Pin 6 to a good ground. If the fuel pump relay now energizes you may have lost the computer main ground, G203 located near the battery.
I’ll be back by the end of the day just stay posted for me I appreciate y’all💯
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
If there is no power after jumpering Pins 2 & 6 on the self test connector then you have to back again to verify the fuel pump relay is energizing and there is power for the fuel pump circuit.
This is a diagram for a 1989 model year truck, yours should be similar. This shows the EEC relay and the fuel pump relay. The Brown (BR) wire out of the load side contact of the fuel pump relay goes to the inertia switch.
Another quick test is remove the jumper from Pins 2 & 6 on the self test connector, then jumper Pin 6 to a good ground. If the fuel pump relay now energizes you may have lost the computer main ground, G203 located near the battery.
This is a diagram for a 1989 model year truck, yours should be similar. This shows the EEC relay and the fuel pump relay. The Brown (BR) wire out of the load side contact of the fuel pump relay goes to the inertia switch.
Another quick test is remove the jumper from Pins 2 & 6 on the self test connector, then jumper Pin 6 to a good ground. If the fuel pump relay now energizes you may have lost the computer main ground, G203 located near the battery.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
The temporary ground you supplied finally proves the fuel pump circuit is good. Now you have to figure out why the computer ground signal for the fuel pump relay is not working. Could be a bad connection or a bad computer.
A truck with a manual transmission does not have a torque converter.
For your manual transmission The filler/inspection plug is on the side of the transmission. Here is some info assuming you have an M5OD: https://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/...n-fluid-429634
If you have a different manual transmission the process is usually the same, check the level at the filler plug. If it is low add fluid through that port.
A truck with a manual transmission does not have a torque converter.
For your manual transmission The filler/inspection plug is on the side of the transmission. Here is some info assuming you have an M5OD: https://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/...n-fluid-429634
If you have a different manual transmission the process is usually the same, check the level at the filler plug. If it is low add fluid through that port.