No fuel
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
This is the twelve volt light on the inertia switch it’s plugged into where the brown wire leads to, and is grounded on the frame. As you can see this is getting fed power
This is the red and black wire from the inertia switch it is receiving no power and the alligator clip is grounded to the frame
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,785
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
This is a diagram for a 1989 model year gas engine truck with dual tanks. Yours should be similar.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
The inertia switch is normally closed which "jumpers" power from the brown wire to the Pink/Black wire. With no inertia switch in circuit there will never be power on the Pink/Black wire.
This is a diagram for a 1989 model year gas engine truck with dual tanks. Yours should be similar.
This is a diagram for a 1989 model year gas engine truck with dual tanks. Yours should be similar.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,785
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
The inertia switch needs to be connected. Then check for power on the Pink/Black wire. at the switch. If that is good then verify power is getting to the frame rail pump on the same Pink/Black wire. If that is good then your issue is on the ground side. All three pumps tie to ground G801.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
The inertia switch needs to be connected. Then check for power on the Pink/Black wire. at the switch. If that is good then verify power is getting to the frame rail pump on the same Pink/Black wire. If that is good then your issue is on the ground side. All three pumps tie to ground G801.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
I know the ground is good due to me probing a fuse wire that connects to a relay and it glew red
side note
I traced the pink and black cord and the black cord that runs to the fuel pump and ended up here when the alligator clip is put on the negative battery terminal both wires that lead to the pump glow red. Just thought I’d quiz that in there
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,785
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
You stated you had power on the brown wire before. This is why I do not rely on a frame ground to troubleshoot power circuits. The frame is rusted and it is not used for anything other than when towing a trailer. Either run a jumper back to the battery or use a good ground inside the cable.
The above paragraph contradicts your opening statement "plugged in the inertia switch and grounded the alligator clip to the metal frame no power was running through the brown or pink and black wire". If there was no power on the Brown or Pink/Black wires there would be no power at the connector you you posted a photo of which also means the test lamp would not turn on.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
You stated you had power on the brown wire before. This is why I do not rely on a frame ground to troubleshoot power circuits. The frame is rusted and it is not used for anything other than when towing a trailer. Either run a jumper back to the battery or use a good ground inside the cable.
See my previous response.
You should not have any power on the black wire that runs from the fuel pump to ground when you reference your test light to the negative terminal of the battery. That black wire is tied to ground G801 which is the same reference point as the negative terminal of the battery. Since your test lamp is lighting up that means the pump has no reference to ground. It will never turn on.
The above paragraph contradicts your opening statement "plugged in the inertia switch and grounded the alligator clip to the metal frame no power was running through the brown or pink and black wire". If there was no power on the Brown or Pink/Black wires there would be no power at the connector you you posted a photo of which also means the test lamp would not turn on.
See my previous response.
You should not have any power on the black wire that runs from the fuel pump to ground when you reference your test light to the negative terminal of the battery. That black wire is tied to ground G801 which is the same reference point as the negative terminal of the battery. Since your test lamp is lighting up that means the pump has no reference to ground. It will never turn on.
The above paragraph contradicts your opening statement "plugged in the inertia switch and grounded the alligator clip to the metal frame no power was running through the brown or pink and black wire". If there was no power on the Brown or Pink/Black wires there would be no power at the connector you you posted a photo of which also means the test lamp would not turn on.
also if I did go to chase down would the problem be from a relay under the hood or at the fuse. Or it’s deeper than that?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,785
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Your test results are too inconsistent to determine where your root cause is at. Some places you state there is no power but further down the line there is. It goes back to using a good ground reference then work through the circuit. From the supply side to the component. If the component is good, i.e. fuel pump, and there is verified power on the supply side then you are looking at a ground problem. Easiest test there is to run a jumper from the fuel pump ground wire, black in this case for the frame rail pump, to the negative terminal of the battery. If the fuel pump turns on, troubleshoot the ground connection. If it does not then you are back to is there really power or is the fuel pump actually good.
It comes down to three things to verify.
1. Power is getting to the component
2. There is a path to ground
3. The component is good.
Running a switch to manually activate the fuel pump(s) then leaving it in circuit is very dangerous in my opinion. That is why there are various safeties built into the circuit.
It comes down to three things to verify.
1. Power is getting to the component
2. There is a path to ground
3. The component is good.
Running a switch to manually activate the fuel pump(s) then leaving it in circuit is very dangerous in my opinion. That is why there are various safeties built into the circuit.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
Your test results are too inconsistent to determine where your root cause is at. Some places you state there is no power but further down the line there is. It goes back to using a good ground reference then work through the circuit. From the supply side to the component. If the component is good, i.e. fuel pump, and there is verified power on the supply side then you are looking at a ground problem. Easiest test there is to run a jumper from the fuel pump ground wire, black in this case for the frame rail pump, to the negative terminal of the battery. If the fuel pump turns on, troubleshoot the ground connection. If it does not then you are back to is there really power or is the fuel pump actually good.
It comes down to three things to verify.
1. Power is getting to the component
2. There is a path to ground
3. The component is good.
Running a switch to manually activate the fuel pump(s) then leaving it in circuit is very dangerous in my opinion. That is why there are various safeties built into the circuit.
It comes down to three things to verify.
1. Power is getting to the component
2. There is a path to ground
3. The component is good.
Running a switch to manually activate the fuel pump(s) then leaving it in circuit is very dangerous in my opinion. That is why there are various safeties built into the circuit.
This is the connector that goes to the fuel pump. The wires that are stuck out are wires that came out of the new fuel pump that connect to the black plug-in; that is then connected with the white plug in. When the test light is plugged up on negative terminal no red light comes on from the black wire nor the pink and black. When key is turnt over no hum noise
I also made a hot wire out of some wire that came from a battery wire I ran that wire from the pump to the negative battery and my test light showed no light from when I hooked it to the negative terminal.
Here’s what I mean when I say I connected the new wires from my fuel pump to the black plug in.
Also i don’t know if this means anything, but on the white plug-in when I hooked my test light to the negative terminal and probed it no light came on on both wires. When my test light is hooked on the positive terminals I prove both wires and test light turns green. I traced these wires down and the go to a relay.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,785
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
This is the connector that goes to the fuel pump. The wires that are stuck out are wires that came out of the new fuel pump that connect to the black plug-in; that is then connected with the white plug in. When the test light is plugged up on negative terminal no red light comes on from the black wire nor the pink and black. When key is turnt over no hum noise.
With the test lamp attached to the positive terminal and the Pink/Black wire it should not illuminate since electrically those two points are the same assuming the supply circuit is temporarily jumpered for testing purposes as I have described previously . I would expect the test lamp to illuminate when you touched the other end to the black wire since now you are completing the circuit for the test lamp.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
[QUOTE=rla2005;20384328]Looks like you are back to no power on the Pink/Black wire.
Looks like you are back to no power on the Pink/Black wire.
With the test lamp connected to the negative terminal of the battery it should illuminate when you touch the Pink/Black wire if it had power on it. The Black wire is supposed to go to ground so I would not expect the test to illuminate when it is attached to the negative terminal of battery and the black wire.
With the test lamp attached to the positive terminal and the Pink/Black wire it should not illuminate since electrically those two points are the same assuming the supply circuit is temporarily jumpered for testing purposes as I have described previously . I would expect the test lamp to illuminate when you touched the other end to the black wire since
Looks like you are back to no power on the Pink/Black wire.
With the test lamp connected to the negative terminal of the battery it should illuminate when you touch the Pink/Black wire if it had power on it. The Black wire is supposed to go to ground so I would not expect the test to illuminate when it is attached to the negative terminal of battery and the black wire.
With the test lamp attached to the positive terminal and the Pink/Black wire it should not illuminate since electrically those two points are the same assuming the supply circuit is temporarily jumpered for testing purposes as I have described previously . I would expect the test lamp to illuminate when you touched the other end to the black wire since
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
Nitty gritry
The wires lead to this 12 prong connector. There is no power on the black wire connected to this nor the other I unhooked this connector and put the test light on the inside prongs. On the prongs that connect to the those two wires there is no power stemming from that relay. To dumb it down there’s no power on either cord at all.
This is my raggedy eec test and the wires behind them how would I know which ones 2&6 to jumper them. My truck is one of those 95 to 88 swaps ik for a dummy fact it should no be this hard to figure out why no powe is getting to the pump I’m just making it difficult.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,785
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
The wires lead to this 12 prong connector. There is no power on the black wire connected to this nor the other I unhooked this connector and put the test light on the inside prongs. On the prongs that connect to the those two wires there is no power stemming from that relay. To dumb it down there’s no power on either cord at all.
Attachment 277275