Wheel Stud
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2021
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Wheel Stud
After a little break I am back to working on the rusty old 74 High Boy. It is time for the rear brakes, especially the parking brake. I am more experienced in old rusty British cars, so the truck has been a real learning experience. I got the floating axle out and everything apart and it looks like these brakes have been ignored for a long long time. So I am ordering parts and I can't find wheel studs anywhere. What's up with that? I searched this forum and found a thread where @jackietreehorn used a Dorman Wheel Stud 610-189.1 for later model trucks. Does anyone know why it is difficult to find the original studs (I tried NAPA, Rock Auto, Autozone, etc) and what is the difference with the later model studs? Thanks!
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2021
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Thanks! I will press one out and go to the store. Something has to get me out of my hole and talk to people. Still cant figure out why if so many studs would work the online guys wouldn't pick something to sell some parts.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
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They're mostly all 1/2x20 but there are so many different shanks and lengths that for what they can sell them for it's just not worth the amount of returns they'd get. at least that would seem to be the deal.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,216
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From: Central Florida
2X on tbear's question. Pressing studs in and out is a lot of work and carries some risks - you need to have a solid rationale for replacing them. One of the more common reasons beyond messed up threads or broken studs is the need to accommodate an aftermarket wheel with a different from OEM design such as an aluminum wheel that requires closed lug nuts. In my case, for example, the front wheels of my '76 F-150 4X2 are Cragar SS wheels which require a spacer to clear the disk brakes. So I have to replace the OE studs with longer ones to compensate for the spacer. Wouldn't want to be driving vigorously with fewer than the OE number of threads engaged, right? But the new studs can't be too long because the closed lug nuts will bottom out before the wheel is tight against the rotor. The inevitable resulting wobble would be intolerable and dangerous.
In other words, the devil is in the details.
In other words, the devil is in the details.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2021
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Just old and I was worried they were over torqued. It took everything I had with the biggest breaker bar to break them loose.
I thought I had to press the studs out anyway to remove the rear drum. It is really ate up. This truck has been through a lot! Is it possible to separate the hub from the drum without messing with the studs?
2X on tbear's question. Pressing studs in and out is a lot of work and carries some risks - you need to have a solid rationale for replacing them. One of the more common reasons beyond messed up threads or broken studs is the need to accommodate an aftermarket wheel with a different from OEM design such as an aluminum wheel that requires closed lug nuts. In my case, for example, the front wheels of my '76 F-150 4X2 are Cragar SS wheels which require a spacer to clear the disk brakes. So I have to replace the OE studs with longer ones to compensate for the spacer. Wouldn't want to be driving vigorously with fewer than the OE number of threads engaged, right? But the new studs can't be too long because the closed lug nuts will bottom out before the wheel is tight against the rotor. The inevitable resulting wobble would be intolerable and dangerous.
In other words, the devil is in the details.
In other words, the devil is in the details.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
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No you have to remove them. if you don't have a press you can use a brass pin or something similar to pound them out.
If they look good I'd reuse them.
If they look good I'd reuse them.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2021
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Will do. No sense in looking for drama where none exists. I just pressed one out and it looks fine. Thanks for your help.
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