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Do you guys know if its safe to assemble an engine after electrolysis, without reboring piston cylinders (i.e, will electrolysis ruin cylinders?). I want to de-rust coolant passages by cleaning entire engine w/ electrolysis, and then re-assemble right away. Good idea?
I have a 1974 Pinto 2.3L (2300 cc) 140 cid engine
Last edited by McCringleberry; Mar 29, 2022 at 05:59 AM.
Have you read up on rust removal using electrolysis, me thinks not?
I say this because rust removal using electrolysis is line of sight so unless you can put rods in the cooling passages with out them touching the block and shorting out it will not work. I bet you were going to hang the block in a pool with the grid / rods below the block to get the rust out of the passages right?
As said line of sight so the part of the block to the grid / rods would get rust removed using electrolysis but anywhere else it will not touch.
Now are the holes also rusted or jut the cooling passages?
If the holes are rusted also when you hone them to remove the rust it will change the size so new rings and maybe a bore and new pistons?
And yes I know how it works.
1 Fender of 3 I did and 2 bumper brackets in the pool. I also did 2 hoods skins removed from the frames to get all the rust.
The grid covers the whole bottom of the pool and you can see the battery charger lead on the re-bar in the corner.
If the piston holes are not rusted you can try this but I dont know how well it will work as I have never tried it.
Plug off all the cooling passages but 1 at the vary top then fill it with something like Evap A Rust up to the vary top and let it sit.
After a week or more drain it, save it as it can be reused, flush it out and see what it looks like.
My gut says to take it apart and take it to a machine shop and let them hot tank it or what ever they use now to clean blocks & heads.
Dave ----
There’s a car club for owners of Pintos, Vegas, Gremlins, and Pacers. I told them they needed to also accept Yugos, but no word back yet. Guess I’ll have to go it alone.
Don't bad mouth those little engines boys. They were used in several racing venues and heavily supported by Ford SVO even up into the 1990's. My 1995 SVO catalogue still has HP heads and cams for them.
Don't bad mouth those little engines boys. They were used in several racing venues and heavily supported by Ford SVO even up into the 1990's. My 1995 SVO catalogue still has HP heads and cams for them.
I have to agree, Seen more than a few hot 2.3's in my time.
There’s a car club for owners of Pintos, Vegas, Gremlins, and Pacers. I told them they needed to also accept Yugos, but no word back yet. Guess I’ll have to go it alone.
Dont be picking on the Gremlins & Pacers. I have a Gremlin and 2 Javelins, never had a Pacer.
BTW did you know the Gremlin was on par with Pintos & Vegas as a compact car?
The Gremlin was also the only one to get a straight six (232 / 258) and get this a 304 v8 from the factory.
Yes my Gremlin is a factory 304 v8 with auto transmission but you could get a manual.
When I raced 4x4 off road there was a little flat fender Jeep that ran a hot little Pinto motor and it was a runner!
Dave ----
I had an 1981 or 1984 AMC Spirit I-6 automatic.
It was just as noteworthy, and ugly, as Gremlin & Pacer IMO, but just as durable.
Those Ford 4-cyl 2.0L & 2.3L engines were tough; I had Pinto's & Bobcat's back in '78-'80 and they were good runners with tune-up's & oil changes regularly.
Best of luck with your engine project - Pete
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. I would say you need to talk to an automotive machine shop about that.
