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ok, My 95 F250 is a 4x4 with manual hubs. I dont for sure know the front axle type, but assume its a Dana 50. I was perusing the owners manual to make sure I was operating the transfer case right, (I wasnt, I was in park when shifting and not neutral....) since it was a bit tough getting out of 4L to 4H. Now with the manual hubs, its not a major issue for me to get out and lock them in, but was wondering if the automatic hubs were a direct swapover and if the auto hubs were considered and upgrade or not.
A lot of people do the conversion, I have it in the pipeline and will be converting to warn manual hubs. I like to have full control and to a degree peace of mind knowing that when I want to disengage the axle it is in fact disengaged.
Auto hubs require you to travel in reverse to unlock the hubs after coming out of 4x4.
Being tough shifting through the manual transfer case is normal, my 2015 jeep wrangler behaves the same. And so did my 2005 dodge dakota.
Auto hubs are a downgrade from manual, they have a pretty good reputation for breaking at the worst time. The mechanism used to unlock auto hubs... reversing direction of travel, is exactly what results in thier destruction if you actually get stuck and resort to rapid fire fwd-rev-fwd shifting to get unstuck. That said for occasional mild 4wd use the auto hubs are fine and you may never have a problem, but if the truck already has manuals run with it. It's a good idea to occassionally lock the hubs and drive around in 2wd to keep everything lubricated, and with manual hubs you should get into the habit of locking them in before you even start to venture into an area where you may need 4wd, and also engage 4wd before driving into that mud hole... don't wait until you are stuck.
Also the t-case shift linkage is well known for siezing up, it really should not be any more difficult to move than your transmission shift lever, so if it is I suggest removing it for disassebly and lubrication.
I find shifting in / out of 4 lo works best when slightly rolling - very slowly 1-2 mph, barley walking speed (barely crawling). Shift trans into N, then shift in / out of 4 lo. In any truck I’ve had, manual or electric.
I find shifting in / out of 4 lo works best when slightly rolling - very slowly 1-2 mph, barley walking speed. Shift trans into N, then shift in / out of 4 lo. In any truck I’ve had, manual or electric.
Never tried this method, I usually go forward about 6 feet, stop and try again. I have never tried shifting while the truck is moving...is this safe?
Yes shifting while moving safe if you know what you are doing, think of it like shifting a manual transmission clutchless.
My ex old lady's Scout2 had a Dana 20 case, 4hi or 4lo had to be under motion...and with a 727 trans was tricky. Once you had the hang of it, easy as can be.
ok, then. i guess Ill keep the manual hubs. i dont plan on any serious offroading, but Forest Service roads can be a bit of a mixed bag. Ill just lock the hubs as soon as I leave the pavement, and exercise the transfer case as needed.
With hubs locked you can shift in and out of 4Hi at any speed as long as there is no wheel spin happening, but for 4low the truck should be stopped* with the trans in neutral. The low range gear set are not designed for shift on the fly and that range drastically changes the final drive ratio, so don't try to shift this like you would 4hi. *It can be helpful if the truck is allowed to roll slightly(a few inches) when shifting into 4low.
Manual hub lockouts > automatic hubs has been the general consensus for 40 years. I would certainly stick with manual hubs and just lock them when you think 4wd may be needed. I have seen a few situations over the years particularly one with my friends 84 Bronco where 4wd was needed and the auto hubs wouldn't engage.
With hubs locked you can shift in and out of 4Hi at any speed as long as there is no wheel spin happening, but for 4low the truck should be stopped* with the trans in neutral. The low range gear set are not designed for shift on the fly and that range drastically changes the final drive ratio, so don't try to shift this like you would 4hi. *It can be helpful if the truck is allowed to roll slightly(a few inches) when shifting into 4low.
I was gonna say I would never try to put an NP208 into 4lo while moving in a gear especially. ESPECIALLY low(sm465) but thats my gmc. its funny tho when in low and 4lo, the second the truck starts to move when clutching out youre moving at about full speed and engaged fully lol!
Took the truck out firewooding and got to exercise the transfer case good today. Now that I know that you should be in neutral to shift 4hi to 4lo, it works MUCH smoother. Its nice being able to go 2hi to 4 hi on the fly as well, as long as the hubs are locked in. (I did this as soon as I went off the pavement) Forest roads today were a mixed bag of sandy and dry, all the way up to a bit of snow and mud, with the occasional creek crossing thrown in there. If you stopped just off the side of the road, it could be a bit muddier than the main trail, but not more than an inch or two deep. Did I really need 4wd, probably not, but its damn nice to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it, besides it gave a good functional test of the system. As an aside, its amazing how much smoother these things ride when you have half a cord of wet wood in the back of them!! it ALMOST wasnt backbreakingly bouncy!!
Basically, I did the same thing today with my '93. I have manual hubs, but my complaint is that it is push button instead of a floor shifter. I replaced the puny little motor a couple years ago and try to keep it exercised but Sheeesh! And they do ride nice with some weight on them, especially with the stiff quad shock set up in the front.
Basically, I did the same thing today with my '93. I have manual hubs, but my complaint is that it is push button instead of a floor shifter. I replaced the puny little motor a couple years ago and try to keep it exercised but Sheeesh! And they do ride nice with some weight on them, especially with the stiff quad shock set up in the front.
To be fair, the 80s with shift rail problems from new process cases werent much better reliability wise to a push button. Either way it sucks golf ***** through garden hoses when you need 4wd and thats when you find out that you are not getting 4wd.
So let me ask this. I had a 94 Bronco which had auto lock. I sold it in 2005 and never had a problem with it. I just purchased a 96 and it has manual locks. I know you don't keep 4 wheel drive on when on dry roads but is it safe to lock the hubs and just not activate the 4 x 4 inside the vehicle? Or do you leave the hubs unlocked until you need the 4 x 4. I just never had manual hubs before and was thinking of switching back to automatic. But some on here lead me to believe the manual are better. Ty
I know you don't keep 4 wheel drive on when on dry roads but is it safe to lock the hubs and just not activate the 4 x 4 inside the vehicle?
From post #3 of this thread….
Originally Posted by Conanski
It's a good idea to occassionally lock the hubs and drive around in 2wd to keep everything lubricated, and with manual hubs you should get into the habit of locking them in before you even start to venture into an area where you may need 4wd, and also engage 4wd before driving into that mud hole... don't wait until you are stuck.