So I go out to start the truck this morning. I haven't driven it in a while.
I go to crank it over, and it's kind of cranking slow. On my previous truck, I had gelled up in the winter time and cranked it until my battery was dead...smoked my FICM...that was an expensive lesson learned. The batteries were starting to show signs of getting weaker. But they should have had another year on them at least.
So before it got too low, I was going to just go get my charger and hook it up. As I let off on the key, the engine fired over, sputtered, and died...but the starter kept cranking?! Glow plugs light came back on, kept on cranking! I took the keys completely out of the ignition...and it just kept on cranking! Never in my life have I ever heard of that before.

I jumped out and ran to the shop to get the charger, was going to hook it up before it went dead. (Yea, in hind sight that was a lame duck idea, I know.) But it came to a halt before I could get back.
Truck...dead.
Ignition key...does nothing. No gauges, nothing.
Battery charger doesn't even recognize EITHER battery.
FICM...assumed RIP.

I quietly shut the hood, and manually locked all the doors and came back in the house. I don't even want to know what caused it...what it's going to set me back....
I know I'm replacing both batteries, and I was going to get my Ed's FICM sooner or later. I guess sooner just came around. Uncle Sam got me this year without even a reach around though. So the truck might get to sit for a while.

Anyone else ever encounter such possession?

 

I would guess the starter solenoid is stuck

 

Not sure about that, but neither battery will even register with my charger, and I have zero power at the dash. Turn the key on, and it's completely dead like there are no batteries attached. No lights, gauges don't do anything, completely silent.
Too pissed about it, didn't even touch it the rest of the weekend. First plan of attack is to take both batteries out of the truck, see if they will behave differently disconnected on the charger. IF I can get them to take a charge, I will put the battery load tester on them to verify if they are hosed or not. Plan will be to replace regardless...

I read about a primary battery fuse. Never heard of such a thing before, but will chase that more. I didn't even see a bulk head style fuse box in the engine bay. Saw one smaller one just dash side of the drivers battery. Maybe under the battery cover on driver's side?
After that, If the batteries are providing solid power, then I'm guessing I'm looking at a new ECU to start with. Trying to figure out how a non computer-fancy (no integrated OEM touch screen or anything. Old school radio...) truck has to have the ecu programmed by the dealership to work. My 2016 BMW, computerized six ways from Sunday, I have a stand bye ECU that I had for when it was tinkering with my tune and coding it for features. THAT is plug and play, and didn't have to be programmed to the vehicle. Go figure.
Or maybe it's the ignition switch. Not the tumbler, but the actual electronic module?

Speaking of batteries, just did some quick shopping as to what is available around me.
Autozone = Duralast Gold (850/1000/150 reserve) $423 total
Advance Auto = DieHard Gold (850/1000/150) $475 total
Oreilly = Motorcraft (850/1062/150) $403.98 total
Walmart = Odd brand name...no thanks.
Costco = nothing that fits the truck.

For most things, I know Ford Motorcraft is the way to go, and on paper, here it looks the same. But I've never purchased a Ford Motorcraft battery before. Good? Bad?

Anyway, will post up progress on troubleshooting here as I go, in case it will help someone out down the road.

 

I have bought a number of batteries at the dealership. Never did well for me.

How did you decide the starter is ok?
How did you get to a bad "ECU"? Your control modules are not going to function at low voltage.
Did you check the starter relay?

I wouldn't spend much time looking for a "primary battery fuse". There are fusible links in the wiring for each battery though. The owners manual (if you still have one) lists all the fuses and their location. If you don't have one and would like one, we can post a link.
Is your '04 an early or a late '04? IIRC some of the electrical system was revised mid year in '04 (ie 03 engine vs 04 engine)

 

I think I'm going to take your approach to this thread. "I quietly shut the hood, manually locked all the doors, and came back in the house." I don't need to be swimming upstream to fight the current. Good luck with it.

 

I haven't come to any conclusions yet. Again, was too pissed to dig into it. Was planning on starting after work tonight.
Where are my first thoughts coming from though. Mainly from things I've read in the past, and other experiences I've gained through out my life. Which means absolutely nothing. I know.
Thoughts of ECM...I have absolutely zero power at the dash/key. I've never personally seen a bad starter result in a completely dead vehicle. I've dealt multiple times with the starter not working at all, getting stuck to the flex plate and won't disengage...stuff like that. If it is the source of a complete power loss to the cabin, that would be a first for me. But again, haven't physically diagnosed anything yet, nor ruled anything out. I might have multiple issues going on for sure.

Build date is 11/03. I do have the manual, thanks for the link offer.
Will definitely be checking all the above. Just for clarity, nothing is not suspect.

 

Just remember - the instrument cluster is powered from the Central Junction Box (CJB), not the PCM. The CJB is the fuse panel below the steering wheel.