Timing problem
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 66
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Timing problem
I recently removed my distributor (electronic) on my 1989 E150 302 to replace intake manifold gaskets. I don't remember the position now of the stator when I removed it. I reinstalled the distributor, hoping I aligned it properly. Now the engine cranks but will not start. Can anyone provide me with a procedure to get the distributor close to BTDC so I can start the engine and put a timing light on it? Is this called "Cold Timining?"
Thanks.
Rick
Thanks.
Rick
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 121
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From: Tulsa, OK
Pull the #1 spark plug. #1 spark plug is the front passenger side. Rotate the crankshaft while holding a finger over the spark plug hole. When you feel the pressure on your finger, you're at #1 top dead center. Then reinstall the distributer with the rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug wire. Also, you have to remove the SPOUT connector when setting the base timing with your timing light. The SPOUT connector will be near your ICM module. My ICM module is on the distributor, but some are mounted on the left inside fender.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2003
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Thank you, Tulsaokjoe1 for the info. It appears that two people are required to perform this procedure. My wife and son just left for a dinner and I am still working on the van. So, I'll have to wait for them to return. Unless there is a way to jump start the engine while holding a finger over the #1 plug port. Thanks again.
Rick
Rick
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 158
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From: Champlin USA
theres a safety issue here. please dont crank the engine with only one spark plug disconnected and someone in the engine compartment. the engine could start. also, by the time you feel pressure on your finger you cant stop the person cranking in time to know where the engine should be. it might be a better idea to take all the spark plugs out (to let the engine turn easier), put a compression tester on #1 cylinder and crank the engine by hand using the crank bolt. when you see pressure build up your on the compression stroke, stop at the top of piston travel.
really dont wanna see someone get injured by another family member
really dont wanna see someone get injured by another family member
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2003
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Thanks Bourbon,
I will not take any chances here. Safety comes first. I've removed all the plug wires from the distributor. I just performed the procedure and found TDC #1 plug.
Thanks again.
Rick
I will not take any chances here. Safety comes first. I've removed all the plug wires from the distributor. I just performed the procedure and found TDC #1 plug.
Thanks again.
Rick
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, OK
Sorry for the slow response. I didn't mean for you to turn the engine using the ignition switch. I meant to do so using the crank bolt as bourbon said. Sorry for the confusion. Did you get it re-timed yet?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2003
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I successfully re-timed the engine. Everything seems to be working fine. The only problem I have now is the engine lopes at idle and frequently stalls when I come to a stop. It runs great otherwise. So, I think there is a vacuum leak. Maybe the intake manifold bolts are not tight enough. I'll have to remove the upper intake manifold to get to the lower intake manifold bolts. What a lot of work. I used a torque wrench and tightened everything to the specs in my shop manual. I thought that would do it.
Rick
Rick
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 158
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From: Champlin USA
its prob not the intake bolts, after reading post after post after post after post about idle problems ive come to the conclusion that our trucks dont grow old very gracefully. i have idle problems too.
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