For those that gave input on my radiator thread I have solid answers. I have a cracked cylinder. So, what are my options? Is it possible to have my engine sleeved, should I track down a used engine and rebuild it, other more expensive options might be buy a built engine or, forgive me, 12 valve swap it? Looks like no matter what i end up with its not gonna be cheap. So, what say the experts?

 

No expert, but here's my 2 cent.

If you were happy with the truck before I wouldn't 12v swap. You've already got all the upgrade parts for the 7.3, just need a good engine.

If the truck were uable I'd say grab another block and build. Unfortunately, that doesn't seem to be the case. I've never looked into sleeving a block or rebuilding a 7.3L, but I'd probably opt for a different block to build. I just don't think I'd trust the sleeve job, even though I know a lot of them are out there in more extreme applications.

Up to you, but I'd stick with the 7.3 either way.

 

I would scout a good, used engine. Maybe you could find an otherwise deceased truck and have some other spare parts too. At 394,000, you got some use out of it. the 7.3 was used in a lot of vehicles like ambulances, school busses, medium duty trucks, etc so you have more options than just an old pickup truck.

 

The devil made me do it.
https://www.gohypermax.com/ProductDi...4-21a74bead44c

 

I wonder how many of those they sell.

 

Based on this video, quite a few.

 

Just a bit out of my price range or need but very cool. I knew I should of picked up an extra engine when I saw them for sale, not seeing much now. At least none that are close to a grand or in a cheap truck. Let the hunt begin

 

Talked to a local machine shop and they said they have sleeved some 7.3s so long as the crack isn’t to the deck surface. So I’ll be sending them pics of the crack in the morning now that I’ve got the pistons all out, the 7.75 i have left atleast. Ill post the pics here as well to get your guys input. If its not doable I found a 2wd RCLB relatively close by for 2k so there’s atleast a contingency plan lined up.

 

Got the block stripped down to just the crank and cam. Only saw the one cracked cylinder. Waiting to hear back from the machine shop currently.


I did find a 99 complete truck for sale about an hour away. Doesn’t have reverse and has a computer issue they’re claiming. Asking price is $2,000 so I’m on the fence. Tempted to buy it just because and part it out or if needed or more recommended rebuild the engine out of it to put in my truck and scrap my block. So what do you guys think? Once I hear back from the shop Ill be sure to relay what they’ve said in regulars to sleeving my block and cleaning it all up.

I figure I’ll take this time of the truck being down to upgrade some other parts on the rest of it, such as my fuel system, some transmission tunnel insulation plus add to the firewall. I’m gonna have a friend weld in the boxing plates from the engine crossmember to the frame that I removed from the 06 parts truck. Anything else worth doing to the remainder of the truck or engine?

 

I think that $2000 is the way to go if the engine is good. You'll spend a whole lot more than that just rebuilding yours and it's a big plus when you need a part and have it on hand from the rest of the truck.

 

Yeah, defiantly would be nice to have the extra parts for stuff not just the engine. I’m gonna send my injectors off while im doing all of this to have them checked out. Might be a waste of 300 and shipping but id rather know for sure they’re good still. Especially since I’m thinking I’ll do a full rebuild of the other engine, it’s got 200k but it would be nice to start with a clean slate with a fresh engine. Looks like riff raff is gonna get another expensive order from me for new parts.

I heard back from the machine shop, they’re rule of thumb is a half inch or more from the deck surface. Mine is actually has little more space there but he said still worried about a coolant leak so no go there.

 

Talked with a friend a bit and he showed the rebuild kit he used. What would you guys recommend? I was gonna go through clay for the full kit, it seems to have everything I’d want/need. I don’t see a need to replace the camshaft unless it’s messed up so mainly needing pistons, seals and bearings, all of which are in the kit. Is it worth having the pistons coated as well?

Since I’m spending the money on a full rebuild should I replace the lifters? What about one of the aftermarket fuel pump/filter setups, I’ve got a friend running a fass and he likes it. I don’t think my factory pump was able to maintain full pressure on a hard run but it’s been a while. That and I had a fuel leak somewhere, I’m pretty sure the flex lines from frame to engine, that I was never able to track down before the engine busted.

 

I pickup the parts truck later today. Hoping to get the engine pulled, stripped and to the machine shop by Friday before I leave for my shift at 2. Then I’d imagine I should have an answer to what rebuild kit size to order and I’ll have an expensive package with the famous yellow tape headed my way. Other than the basics anything special or extra you guys think worth ordering to replace stock parts? Ive got the intake manifolds, the injectors will be checked out, might go ahead and replace the sensors I haven’t recently/ ever like the IPR.

Still need to figure out what to use to for some sound deadening on the engine side of the firewall, the factory stuff is there but more would be better.

 

Cracks grow. I would not sleeve a cracked cylinder, but I default to experts for things like this.

If the donor truck runs, I would hook the scan tool up and run it through its paces before tear down. If it’s strong, I’d consider just running it. You may get another 100k miles or more without rebuild. Saving $$, but a LOT of time. My experience is machine shops take 2x as long as they say and it ALWAYS costs more.

On that note, I’ve helped (2) friends put 7.3’s back in trucks they swapped 6bt’s into. The tractor engine is great, but you’ll spend 2x what you thought to do the swap and your stuck with a NOISY engine that is either 1/2 the power of a tuned 7.3 or smokes like a steam locomotive.

 

Not gonna use my block, the shop said they’d be worried the sleeve wouldn’t stay sealed so just gonna get the parts truck. It doesn’t run currently I believe, they said it has an bad ECM from sitting as well as no reverse. Also claims it has a rear main leak but I figure it’s the turbo pedestal. I’m not sure if it’s an early or late 99 or the condition of the turbo or injectors. Guess I won’t know much of anything until I get it home and start taking the truck apart.

Ive got a car I can use for as long as needed if i plan to rebuild the new engine but obviously don’t want the truck to be down a super long time. The parts truck has just over 200k on it but I figured the rebuild would be best to make sure I have a long time with no problems from it and am starting with a clean slate.