I use the click method. Turn till it feels right and say click.

 

I often use that method as well. Depends on what I'm working on.

 

Locktite is our friend

 

It can be. It can also be our enemy.
Reminds of the Homer Simpson quote "To beer! The cause of, and solution to, all of life's problems."

 

Thanks for the info! I had also sent a message this weekend to Thoroughbred Diesel (where I bought the DPK from) and they responded also! In case anyone else does this install, here's their response with a few more specs also:

And just for clarification here, is the front upper intake bolt that is torqued to 18 ft lbs the one by itself near the throttle body?

And I am not sure what to think of the torque angle... I think I will do like you and just go to the 89 in/lb...

Thanks again!

 

Yes the upper intake bolt closest to the radiator (by the throttle body) is 18 ft-lb.

Torque angle is technically more accurate since you're using regular torque values to seat the bolt head then an additional angle of rotation to ensure the correct amount of bolt stretch. In this case there are nice gaskets to ensure sealing so I don't think it's critical and I would guess most people don't bother.

 

Been at it for about an hour and a half now… these bolts at the rear intake in the passenger side is the hardest part so far!

 

That intake looks more roomy than my plastic 2019 intake.

take your time

spray down the metering valve area with cleaner before you take it off.

 

Use 1/4" drive tools. Makes it much easier. For the rears I used a deep socket with universal, and a long extension. These bolts are not tight and very easy to loosen with 1/4" tools. I never did find my 1/4" ratchet that fell behind the engine. Good thing I had 2.

 

I ended up putting a regular 8mm wrench on it and using another tool to push the end of the wrench to loosen it. After a while I was able to use the ratcheting wrench on it... I am not looking forward to putting that bolt back. I have a bunch of extensions and swivels and am using 1/4" stuff... there is no getting a socket on there because of the metal holder right above it. I did drop one wrench but was able to retrieve it fairly easy with the magnetic stick... Anyway... I did not blow off the area around the metering valve before taking it out but took my time and got it back together quickly. I just got the fuel line off the metal line and had to take a break... about to go back out and start at it again...

 

Take your time... walk away if you have to... and great job.

 

Ok, I'm all done... it took me 6 hours and I've probably got a pretty good sunburn... that sun has beat me to death...

I agree with Jolly, that rear bolt on the passenger side upper intake was a nightmare... I tinkered for at least an hour trying to figure out how to break it loose, then get it out... I finally ended up using a regular 8mm wrench and used a large pair of bent needle nose pliers to get around the top of the intake and push the wrench while holding the other end on with a finger on my other hand... it was horrible. Thankfully though, putting it back on went a little easier. My daughter was able to get her hands in there to hand tighten it down and then I used a ratcheting 8 mm wrench to finish tightening it... no idea what the torque is, but it's good enough for me... at least I hope! All the rest of the intake bolts are torqued to 89 in/lb.

I ended up dropping a few things... I recovered all but an 11 mm socket that I was tightening the lower side of the S&B CAC pipe with and it dropped into the front of the engine... somewhere... I heard it roll like it was somewhere flat and my best guess is that it has rolled into the top part of the bumper... but I am not taking the bumper off... I will be listening when I drive it though... Also, the bolts for the EGR are not magnetic! Thankfully my daughters hands were small enough to fit back into the valley once the intakes were back on to retrieve it...

I used some of the 1/2" split loom on all the new S&S lines... it fits but just barely, I would suggest the next size up.

I also broke the middle tab on the cowl when trying to pry it up to put the bolt for the S&S bracket on... it's ok though, but I kick myself for doing it. I also broke the keeper for the wires going to the MAF sensor. It attaches to the top of the upper intake and in both of the videos I watched and used they did too... I just used a zip tie to put it back. No biggie...

I was so happy to get everything put back on. My daughter turned the key to prime the fuel lines about 5 times... around the 3rd time one of the hoses on the fuel filter blew off... I simply did not insert the line enough before closing the clamp. So, after a face full of diesel I got it all cleaned back up and this time secured the hose to the filter and finished priming the fuel lines. Eventually she cranked it up. We turned the high idle on and let it run for about 3 minutes. I did not see any more fuel leaking anywhere... Shortly though we are going to go for a drive. I will be sure to watch my commanded and actual FRP with my iDash. That's the only way I know to watch things for now.

This was the largest job I have ever done on any vehicle... and to do it on a brand new vehicle with 13,200 miles on it made me a bit nervous. But thanks to posts like this one from Jolly, and the video from Thoroughbred Diesel and even the one from ARod I felt like it was something I could accomplish. It really wasn't that bad, but there were some parts that were tough... a nice cool shop would have been awesome to do the install in, but my driveway in the glaring sun had to do. At this point I would do it again just knowing that it is a bit of protection for a sensitive system in these trucks. I really did enjoy it but boy and I glad to be done!

I must say, I have great respect for anyone that has done this! Especially if you are like me and this was your learning experience too!

Here's a few photos:


Got everything laid out and ready to go!

Air intake, hot and cold charge pipes off. EGR off.

Everything's out and getting ready to pull the FCA. I did not blow out the valley before pulling it out...

Everything's laid out and it's time to get the DPK nstalled.

Just looking inside my turbo!

The FCA was clean! No metal debris!

Looking into the CP4 getting ready to install the new DPK.

Everything's back together and cleaned up!

A closer look at the filter and some of the fuel lines.

 

Interesting, Ford flipped the materials on the intakes. The 2012 and 2019 both have a plastic upper and aluminum lower intake. Looks just the opposite on the 2022. I think the bracket giving you problems is the same one I encountered, but I was able to loosen it up and move it out of the way. There was a fitting on the stud to remove, then loosen the top nut and the bracket moved just enough to get the socket in there. The 2012 was EASY to do, the 2019 was a Bitch! The bolts in the upper do not come out, they have some sort of lock on them so they only come out so much and the damned things kept getting hung up on the openings. I finally gave up and just left the upper in place and worked around it.

 

Great job Chad! Be proud of yourself...I know I would be after that job. I'm going to let my friend Rob do mine in the shop where my buddy has his collision shop. I'm still going to take pics and help him along the way. he did my Mishimoto oil catch can. He's younger and smaller than me. I also ordered one of those Bullet Proof Diesel Tech steps. I went with payment plan to stretch it out. I'll post up when it's in.

I'd really consider doing it myself but like you, I'd be outside myself. I like being inside the shop for this.

 

Congrats for getting this done.