S&S DPK installed
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 5,846
Likes: 3,468
From: Uh oh, CA
When I get a chance, I'll pull mine out and measure those hoses. I'm glad you posted this. I'm going to do the same before I install mine. Or have it installed...
Unless Jolly remembers and posts up...
Okay I measured the OD of the 3/8 inch ID fuel hoses with a micrometer, they all are 3/8 inch ID, the OD is approximately 16.25mm (loosely measured) which converts to 0.639 inches OD. I bet 5/8 inch (0.625") OD loom would work.
I'll post pics and have some additional info to post up.
Unless Jolly remembers and posts up...
Okay I measured the OD of the 3/8 inch ID fuel hoses with a micrometer, they all are 3/8 inch ID, the OD is approximately 16.25mm (loosely measured) which converts to 0.639 inches OD. I bet 5/8 inch (0.625") OD loom would work.
I'll post pics and have some additional info to post up.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 5,846
Likes: 3,468
From: Uh oh, CA
So I have some more questions... I was watching the Thoroughbred Diesel YT video for install. When reinstalling the upper intake he mentioned torquing to 89 in/lbs, then I think he said to get the temp up to 98* and retorque to 18 ft/lb. Then the 2 bolts on the lower intake are only 31 in/lb. So, did he just go back and retorque the upper intake bolts after letting it run a bit to get the temp up? Also, 31 in/lb on the lower intake... wow, that doesn't seem very tight. I guess this is because it's plastic though?
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,880
Likes: 9,175
From: Western NY
Since my truck has more miles, I ordered a set of intake manifold gaskets. I'll feel better with replacing them when intake is reassembled.
Pic of the hoses included with my kit MY 11 to 16. All the hoses were the same.
I have this from SPE that will get installed when the DPK gets installed...
https://www.spemotorsport.com/collections/powerstroke-cooling-system/products/spe-coolant-tube-fitting-kit-fits-6-7l-powerstroke
Fixes the problematic OEM heater inlet tube which is prone to corrosion and leaking at the thermostat crossover manifold.
Benefits:
- Easy install— Simple instructions that even an amateur can follow.
- Durable— made out of billet aluminum with the correctly sized o-ring rather than the factory thin-wall steel with a poorly fitted o-ring.
- Cleans Up Engine Valley— Great for highly modified trucks looking to clean up the valley of the engine. Fitting converts over to a ¾” hose outlet.
Vehicle Compatibility:
- 2011-2022 Ford SuperDuty F-250/F-350/F-450/F-550 6.7L Powerstroke
The 6.7L Powerstroke has a thin-wall steel line running from the coolant/thermostat crossover manifold to the heater hose. It’s not uncommon to see coolant weeping there, specifically where the heater inlet tube meets the crossover manifold. This is due to both the metal properties, making it prone to corrosion, and the poorly fitted o-ring and tube design. Additionally, any time there’s EGR work, turbo work, or any other movement of the tube, leaking is more prevalent. This is mostly in part to the flawed design of the tube. With the SPE Heater Inlet Tube Fitting Kit we have resolved this issue.
Last edited by Overkill2; Sep 10, 2022 at 02:34 PM. Reason: add to post -- add link
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 5,846
Likes: 3,468
From: Uh oh, CA
I have been watching videos and then walking outside, popping the hood and then studying... Lol! I'm getting excited to do mine, but I know that once I get started I'll be a bit nervous. On another note, I'm hoping too that before I start digging into this I will see my DPF% start climbing again... being stuck at 0% for a couple of weeks now is making me nervous and if somethings going on I would rather wait to do this install until after figuring that out.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,266
Likes: 2,187
I have been watching videos and then walking outside, popping the hood and then studying... Lol! I'm getting excited to do mine, but I know that once I get started I'll be a bit nervous. On another note, I'm hoping too that before I start digging into this I will see my DPF% start climbing again... being stuck at 0% for a couple of weeks now is making me nervous and if somethings going on I would rather wait to do this install until after figuring that out.
correct.
you do not want to introduce changes if there are open items.
if you have forscan or an idash, you can use that to see if your back pressure sensor is sending pressure data.
also, you can check you exhuast tip for black soot inside the tip end walls. If the end walls are black, that would be an indication of cracked ceramic dpf honey comb…which would explain back pressure loss if that is the case.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,250
Likes: 7,678
From: Chino Valley, Arizona
correct.
you do not want to introduce changes if there are open items.
if you have forscan or an idash, you can use that to see if your back pressure sensor is sending pressure data.
also, you can check you exhuast tip for black soot inside the tip end walls. If the end walls are black, that would be an indication of cracked ceramic dpf honey comb…which would explain back pressure loss if that is the case.
you do not want to introduce changes if there are open items.
if you have forscan or an idash, you can use that to see if your back pressure sensor is sending pressure data.
also, you can check you exhuast tip for black soot inside the tip end walls. If the end walls are black, that would be an indication of cracked ceramic dpf honey comb…which would explain back pressure loss if that is the case.
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,880
Likes: 9,175
From: Western NY
correct.
you do not want to introduce changes if there are open items.
if you have forscan or an idash, you can use that to see if your back pressure sensor is sending pressure data.
also, you can check you exhuast tip for black soot inside the tip end walls. If the end walls are black, that would be an indication of cracked ceramic dpf honey comb…which would explain back pressure loss if that is the case.
you do not want to introduce changes if there are open items.
if you have forscan or an idash, you can use that to see if your back pressure sensor is sending pressure data.
also, you can check you exhuast tip for black soot inside the tip end walls. If the end walls are black, that would be an indication of cracked ceramic dpf honey comb…which would explain back pressure loss if that is the case.
https://docs.bankspower.com/bids/fil...7L_V_79_E.html
There's too under the Pressure field;
DPFIP1 DPF Inlet Press Bank 1 PSIG and EXH P1 Exhaust Back Pressure PSIA
There's also a bunch under the Emissions field but nothing that I see specific to DPF pressure readings.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 5,846
Likes: 3,468
From: Uh oh, CA
So, there are no codes popping up on the truck, or on the iDash or Forscan when reading them. I am hoping this is just me being paranoid, but the fact is, it has never taking anywhere near this long for my DPF% to start climbing. Right before my 700 mile trip home it literally went from 0%after I finished the regen to 5% overnight with about 10 miles of driving in between. So for now I am just hoping that due to a regen, then the very next day a 700 mile passive regen, and then a week later another full active regen... maybe my DPF is just super clean right now! LOL...
But otherwise, nothing. Pipes are clean as can be. EGT's are normal temps when driving. And according to the iDash, the DPF RG is something like 30% and the DPF SL is at 6%. One other thing I have thought about doing is to just disconnect the batteries for a few hours and then see if things reset.
I did see that I can monitor the Exhaust back pressure, however, I have no idea what it should be, so not sure what to do with that number.
But otherwise, nothing. Pipes are clean as can be. EGT's are normal temps when driving. And according to the iDash, the DPF RG is something like 30% and the DPF SL is at 6%. One other thing I have thought about doing is to just disconnect the batteries for a few hours and then see if things reset.
I did see that I can monitor the Exhaust back pressure, however, I have no idea what it should be, so not sure what to do with that number.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,266
Likes: 2,187
So, there are no codes popping up on the truck, or on the iDash or Forscan when reading them. I am hoping this is just me being paranoid, but the fact is, it has never taking anywhere near this long for my DPF% to start climbing. Right before my 700 mile trip home it literally went from 0%after I finished the regen to 5% overnight with about 10 miles of driving in between. So for now I am just hoping that due to a regen, then the very next day a 700 mile passive regen, and then a week later another full active regen... maybe my DPF is just super clean right now! LOL...
But otherwise, nothing. Pipes are clean as can be. EGT's are normal temps when driving. And according to the iDash, the DPF RG is something like 30% and the DPF SL is at 6%. One other thing I have thought about doing is to just disconnect the batteries for a few hours and then see if things reset.
I did see that I can monitor the Exhaust back pressure, however, I have no idea what it should be, so not sure what to do with that number.
But otherwise, nothing. Pipes are clean as can be. EGT's are normal temps when driving. And according to the iDash, the DPF RG is something like 30% and the DPF SL is at 6%. One other thing I have thought about doing is to just disconnect the batteries for a few hours and then see if things reset.
I did see that I can monitor the Exhaust back pressure, however, I have no idea what it should be, so not sure what to do with that number.
great, enjoy while it last
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,058
Likes: 424
From: Too close to Houston
By itself the back pressure doesn’t tell you anything terribly useful. To determine soot loading you’d also have to know exhaust flow and temperature then make what I suspect is a fairly simple calculation using flow coefficients unknown to us.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 2,277
Likes: 949
I finally worked my nerves up to ordering the DPK! I will install it during my next oil change, which will also be time for my first fuel filter change too, so I’ll knock it all out at once. I may have some more questions along the way… but for starters, is that just split loom you put on the hoses? If so, you remember what size?
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,880
Likes: 9,175
From: Western NY
This is what I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FJ2CLDP/
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 2,277
Likes: 949
So I have some more questions... I was watching the Thoroughbred Diesel YT video for install. When reinstalling the upper intake he mentioned torquing to 89 in/lbs, then I think he said to get the temp up to 98* and retorque to 18 ft/lb. Then the 2 bolts on the lower intake are only 31 in/lb. So, did he just go back and retorque the upper intake bolts after letting it run a bit to get the temp up? Also, 31 in/lb on the lower intake... wow, that doesn't seem very tight. I guess this is because it's plastic though?
Video
Video
Edit: I don't have a torque angle gauge so I didn't do that, just the 89 in-lb. Should probably retorque them just to make sure.