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Hello,
I have 1994 e350 7.3 ambulance with twin battery. When fully charged batteries will start after few crankings. Next day is hard to start, and almost drain the batteries.
Does I need to wait clicking to finish b4 cranking? Does clicking is normal? Any video of starting guide will be very helpful.
Note that I am from Macedonia, and probably this is the only one e350 in the region, so there is no service shop that knows what to do about it.
I have more experience with the 7.3 powerstroke. But ill attempt to help.
It appears to be cold in ohrid Macedonia so good chance its cold where you are at. Im thinking this is glow plug related. You should have a glow plug solenoid (it looks like a starter solenoid), you can jump the solenoid with a screwdriver. When i do this i light up the glow plugs for 25-30 seconds and then i quickly crank the motor. If this works for you it confirms you need a new glow plug solenoid.
I have more experience with the 7.3 powerstroke. But ill attempt to help.
It appears to be cold in ohrid Macedonia so good chance its cold where you are at. Im thinking this is glow plug related. You should have a glow plug solenoid (it looks like a starter solenoid), you can jump the solenoid with a screwdriver. When i do this i light up the glow plugs for 25-30 seconds and then i quickly crank the motor. If this works for you it confirms you need a new glow plug solenoid.
I am from Skopje, but the weather is more or less same.
Can you provide me some video/photo, because I don't know where to find the solenoid nor how is it look, how to jump out etc... I normaly drive petrol/lpg car so this is new for me.
IMHO,
Clicking is the glow plug relay cycling on and off (normal)
You might have a few bad glow plugs if it foes not fire right up, after the clicking and the wait lamp goes out
Glow plugs on that idi are cheap and easy
Check batteries condition and possible draw on them
Check your alternator and check it for being the draw as well
‘80s Mercedes Diesel passenger cars have glow plugs wired in parallel from the glow relay. Easy to check continuity between each numbered connector socket and ground. Any socket showing more than 1 ohm means a bad glow plug. Also, even if the preglow light goes off after 5 seconds the relay keeps the plugs lit for up to 45 seconds, then releases with a loud click, or releases immediately when you hit the starter. With cold weather and a tired engine, the advice is to do two full glow cycles back-to-back then hit the starter. Hopefully the battery is up to it.
Yes, that all applies to a 7.3 IDI
Some glow plugs that pass the resistance test (less than .5 ohm) are still no good and do not heat up
We used to double check them while out and see if they got hot enough to burn your fingers when 12 volts applied
Some of them barely get warm (no good)
Some get so hot you cannot hold them for long (good)
I read a little about the 7.3 idi. It has a gp controller a gp relay and i cant confirm this but has to have a gp solenoid. i have not found any videos. But reading on the 7.3 idi forum it sounds like the clicking you hear is a diagnostic. The more clicks the more bad glow plugs you have.
If i were you i would still find the gp solenoid and manually jump it. This will heat up the working glow plugs and this test tells you alot of things quick.
Van glow plugs arent easy. Truck glow plugs are cake. Do not buy autolite glow plugs. The only glows plugs i would recommend installing are genuine motorcraft. Fakes are all over ebay and Amazon. Buy from a reputable source.
When i had a bad glow plug solenoid (s) i would routinely kill the batteries trying to start in cold weather.
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