400 HP Engine Build - Input Needed
#16
Yeah after market rods aren't available right now and would tack on an extra 2k to the budget. Beehives would also add an unacceptable amount to the budget given my modest power goals. Really trying to keep this reasonable.
There used to be a cryo outfit in town but seems to be out of business. Machine shop can shot-peen the rods for an additional 90 dollars. I think stock forged rods can handle the power I'm after, it's more a concern over the possibility of fatigue related failure given their mileage.
Added oil cooler and pickup tube to the list as, per this post from @cleatus12r , those parts cant be reliably cleaned after metal in oil https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20267811
Is this a surface issue? I would assume if the heads and block were surfaced to be in specification for smoothness the gasket should hold up similar to factory?
There used to be a cryo outfit in town but seems to be out of business. Machine shop can shot-peen the rods for an additional 90 dollars. I think stock forged rods can handle the power I'm after, it's more a concern over the possibility of fatigue related failure given their mileage.
Added oil cooler and pickup tube to the list as, per this post from @cleatus12r , those parts cant be reliably cleaned after metal in oil https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20267811
#17
The following users liked this post:
#18
By the way, anyone have experience with Irate Diesel's headstuds?
Made overseas and tested here it seems. They're charging 299 for em which is similar to the "Tracktech" brand I've seen around. ARP studs are going for stupid money these days if you can find them, so I'd rather not go that route if I can.
Our Head Stud material properties allow for far greater tensile strength compared to 8740 chromoly steel head studs. Threads are rolled after heat treatment for optimum fatigue strength. Our heavy-duty studs clamping strength prevents cylinder heads from lifting under extreme conditions. HD Head Studs have been rigorously lab-tested in the USA and are guaranteed strong!
#19
By the way, anyone have experience with Irate Diesel's headstuds?
Made overseas and tested here it seems. They're charging 299 for em which is similar to the "Tracktech" brand I've seen around. ARP studs are going for stupid money these days if you can find them, so I'd rather not go that route if I can.
Made overseas and tested here it seems. They're charging 299 for em which is similar to the "Tracktech" brand I've seen around. ARP studs are going for stupid money these days if you can find them, so I'd rather not go that route if I can.
#20
Hah yeah the description is the same except the branding is different. Xotic is also using similar verbiage in their descriptions:
I'm guessing a lot of these places are sourcing them here: https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...054856160.html and slapping their name on the package.
You feel confident in the ones you got?
XOTIC 7200 material properties allow for far greater tensile strength compared to 8740 Chromoly steel head studs. Threads are rolled after heat treatment for optimum fatigue strength.
You feel confident in the ones you got?
#21
You shouldnt need head studs with your goals. If you do want them only one name has a proven record of quality,ARP. A bit costly, and hard to find. Cncfab and Riffraff have a few in stock right now https://cncfab.us/i-30497569-arp-hea...-250-4201.html
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/arp-7-3l-headstud-kit/
I would also say if you are doing springs go with beehive springs and not cheap comp 910, you could source the parts + spacers in pic below and try and save money
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/arp-7-3l-headstud-kit/
I would also say if you are doing springs go with beehive springs and not cheap comp 910, you could source the parts + spacers in pic below and try and save money
#22
Hah yeah the description is the same except the branding is different. Xotic is also using similar verbiage in their descriptions:
I'm guessing a lot of these places are sourcing them here: https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...054856160.html and slapping their name on the package.
You feel confident in the ones you got?
I'm guessing a lot of these places are sourcing them here: https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...054856160.html and slapping their name on the package.
You feel confident in the ones you got?
#25
Is there a "desperate FTEr who needs injectors+studs package deal" discount? X D
Funny enough I've gotten a decent amount of espresso gear from there. Definitely less mission critical than an engine.
#26
The following 3 users liked this post by Bitterroot Diesel:
#27
You shouldnt need head studs for 160/30 injectors. It is easiest done with engine out, but unless you feel you will go bigger then really no need.
Ask AA his opinion on comp 910 or even the melling lpop, he will use a term of “junk” use behives and an oem lpop
I wont go that far and say they are junk. I have zero issues with either on my zf6 truck. It ran 180/30 and a 364.5 then a 363 towing heavy in hot tunes otherwise a stock engine with 300k now.
I do feel the 910s opperate too close to bind with where they are normally shimmed. The beehive are a better design and offer some peace of mind, at least imo
Ask AA his opinion on comp 910 or even the melling lpop, he will use a term of “junk” use behives and an oem lpop
I wont go that far and say they are junk. I have zero issues with either on my zf6 truck. It ran 180/30 and a 364.5 then a 363 towing heavy in hot tunes otherwise a stock engine with 300k now.
I do feel the 910s opperate too close to bind with where they are normally shimmed. The beehive are a better design and offer some peace of mind, at least imo
#28
I don't forsee going bigger with injectors, but I do see VGT or ebooster in say 5+ years, depending on how charted that territory becomes. But that's a ways enough off that it's probably best to be frugal and use stock headbolts for now.
I have a lot of respect for AAs opinion, so if he thinks it's worth the extra money I'll take his word. Really curious why he isn't keen on the Melling...
Do the beehives require shims?
I have a lot of respect for AAs opinion, so if he thinks it's worth the extra money I'll take his word. Really curious why he isn't keen on the Melling...
Do the beehives require shims?
#29
The following users liked this post:
#30