Garage door header
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Senior User
Joined: May 2002
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From: Smithton
Garage door header
I am build a 2 car garage/workshop (wood frame 2x4's on 16 in. centers) and have recieved several different opinions on my garage door header. The door is 16 wide and 8 foot tall. I have been told everything from "you will need a steel beam" to "just nail a couple of 2x6's together". I just want a header that will support my roof safely and not be sagging in 5 years. What is in your guys garage; what do you reccommend?
Thanks
Thanks
Posting Guru
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From: N. Florida - The "No 4x4
Find out what your local building code calls for.
. . . you wouldn't need to pull any permits or request any inspections to do that . .
then you would have a "geographically speciffic good idea to start with".
FWIW.
. . . you wouldn't need to pull any permits or request any inspections to do that . .
then you would have a "geographically speciffic good idea to start with".
FWIW.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: USA
How tall are your walls ? and is the door in the gable end of the garage?
2x6's aren't going to do it.
for a span of 16' your going to need 2x12's
3 of them with 1/2 plywood between the 12's
go to lumber yard get your self a book with instructions on how to construct headers
if you have 8' walls you can't have an 8' door just doesn't work with out the door in the gable end of the garage.
Rich
2x6's aren't going to do it.
for a span of 16' your going to need 2x12's
3 of them with 1/2 plywood between the 12's
go to lumber yard get your self a book with instructions on how to construct headers
if you have 8' walls you can't have an 8' door just doesn't work with out the door in the gable end of the garage.
Rich
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: New Egypt, New Jersey
I was a framer for 20+ years.
Like the others sugguested, I would definately find out what your local codes call for. Different states and municipalities call for different things.
Be sure to also ask them how many "liners" (support studs) they want to see under each end of the header for a 16' span.
I used 2-2x12 with 1/2" plywood between, and a 2x4 cap on the top and bottom for mine, but my doors are only 9' wide.
I'm pretty sure they are going to want you to put steel in there for a 16' span.
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From: Smithton
Thanks for the replies guys. My walls are going to be 10 ft. I just talked to my neighbor who used to work at a lumber yard and he recommended some kind of laminated pressed lumber(I cant remember the exact name) He said it has roughly the same measurements as a 2x12 and if I doubled it up it would be plenty strong, but is would also cost about $150, which isnt a big deal. I live in the country, so I dont know if I have to meet ant certain codes, but I will check it out tomorrow.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: San Rafael, NM
I-Joist
Don't use I joists for that header. Yes, they are just as strong(sometimes stronger) at bearing vertical loads, but they don't have the lateral strength or mass to sustain an impact from vehicle that is too high. They'll crack like tater chips.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Go with the two 2x12 microlams. That's what I've got in mine (same size door) but I also added a 1/2" plywood filler (I've got 2x6 walls). I also had to add 3/4" fillers inside to get the drywall to come out flush. It's on the gable end so no roof load but the vertical load isn't everything. That's a long span and the stiffer you go, the more lateral stability you'll have (like for your door opener mount).
As others have said, find out what your local codes call for. That way you'll know what works.
As others have said, find out what your local codes call for. That way you'll know what works.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: NY and VA
garage door header
Use laminated beams (2) 18 ft long. They are 1 3/4 " thick so 2 will equal the 3 1/2 " of your studs. Sometimes called LVL. 12" wide are good. For a 16' door the opening should be 16' . So the beam will end up being either 16' 3" or, 16' 6" depending if you use a single jack stud on each side or double. Just finished with a 24x32. The lvl meets most USA codes. You will need help putting up beams...very heavy. Good Luck.
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From: chicopee us
Well the LVL's would do it and thats that, but there are several other factors such as (already mentioned) is the door in the gable end or not and are you using manufactored roof trusses? If you are using clear span trusses and the door is on the gable end than there is really no load on the door so you could save yourself the $150 and just use a couple 2x12's (this is probably still overkill for this situation so the guy who said a couple 2x6 would do probably wasn't far off)). If the door is not on the gable end then you will need the LVL's (or 3 -2x12's) regardless of the roof design.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: northwest ohio
I"ve taught carpentry at a local vocational school for 19 years and have built about 35 homes in our area. and I've seen a lot of good advice on the forum. I vote for the LVL's or the gluelams if the door is located on the wall with the rafters resting on them. if it is located on the gable end you don't need that much wood in it.
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From: North East Ohio
Please answer these ?'s for the most accurate info for your question:
1) Is it a gable end? (You do know what that is, right? If not please ask.) If so, then read no further, the (2) 2x12 w/1/2" plywood between is best. Overkill? No. You'll be happy in 25 years when there's no sagging.
If you have roof bearing down on your header:
2) How deep is your Garage? That is, how far is the wall opposite the Garage door?
3) What pitch is your roof?
4) Are you using pre-engineered trusses? If yes, are they made so you can store stuff in them, or is it just to provide a roof?
5) If you are stick framing the rafters, are you planning on storing stuff, too?
All of these answers are needed to properly design the header. I would be happy to help you out, if you need. Speaking from experience (designed and built 100's of homes, yes 100's) and not meaning to insult or offend anyone, it is scary some times to hear advice given on structural strength from people who have "been doin this way for years." Every header and beam in one of my houses is calculated, there are no rules of thumb so to speak. Every project, er header, is in fact unique.
Sure you can throw in the biggest LVL you think will work. But at the cost of those things you could be throwing money away.
1) Is it a gable end? (You do know what that is, right? If not please ask.) If so, then read no further, the (2) 2x12 w/1/2" plywood between is best. Overkill? No. You'll be happy in 25 years when there's no sagging.
If you have roof bearing down on your header:
2) How deep is your Garage? That is, how far is the wall opposite the Garage door?
3) What pitch is your roof?
4) Are you using pre-engineered trusses? If yes, are they made so you can store stuff in them, or is it just to provide a roof?
5) If you are stick framing the rafters, are you planning on storing stuff, too?
All of these answers are needed to properly design the header. I would be happy to help you out, if you need. Speaking from experience (designed and built 100's of homes, yes 100's) and not meaning to insult or offend anyone, it is scary some times to hear advice given on structural strength from people who have "been doin this way for years." Every header and beam in one of my houses is calculated, there are no rules of thumb so to speak. Every project, er header, is in fact unique.
Sure you can throw in the biggest LVL you think will work. But at the cost of those things you could be throwing money away.
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Post Fiend
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From: Central Kali
I have two 18' ?? garage doors. The header is 4 x 12?? The original from the 60's has no sag. The newer (garage was extended) has about 1" of sag. If I was building from scratch, I would put something up with steel in it. I also have a shop building with 4" pipe spanning 24'.There was a little sag so I jacked up the center and welded in braces out of 3" square tubing. I hate wood.
Last edited by Mike W; Nov 8, 2003 at 01:15 PM.
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