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I’ll be pulling my engine again next week to tear down and replace bearings and cam after a flat tappet failure. Now I’m simply looking for a little advice on removing the engine. It’s an FE and 3.03 three speed
previously we found it easier to remove the whole front clip and headers and then pull the engine and trans together. But maybe there’s a better way that y’all do it, if you want to share your methods please do so!!
second, now I know this is a can of worms, but for a fresh engine on a hydraulic roller cam is synthetic okay? What do y’all run? Thanks
If it were me I wouldn't pull the front clip just to take the engine out and back in. Remove the radiator, leave the bellhousing and trans in the truck and pull the engine.
If it were me I wouldn't pull the front clip just to take the engine out and back in. Remove the radiator, leave the bellhousing and trans in the truck and pull the engine.
would you pull headers too? It’s just a set of basic long tubes
If you're comfortable removing the front clip then I say keep doing it that way. I've never removed the clip. I always remove the hood and lift the engine with the clutch attached. Reinstalling it can be tedious when lining up the engine to bellhousing and tranny input. That takes time and patience. I don't expect you have to fully remove the headers (cause I don't). Just unbolt from heads unless you have interference with the starter motor.
I've seen but never done it where guys jack the rear of their mustang or other car fairly high and then angle the tranny and engine in as a unit (without removing the front clip). I'd want to watch someone else do that before trying myself.
For oil, it shouldn't matter to the roller cam which oil you use so long as it's in the 10w30 range (or 5w30, 5w40). Breaking in the rings might be better with dinosaur oil. After some good up and down hills with moderate to heavy throttle, then switch to synthetic. Since it's a fresh rebuild, some guys like to cut open the oil filter to look for scary stuff...like a lotta shavings. I use synthetic blend with my roller cam, btw.
Got the engine out and torn down. Rebuild begins tomorrow.
cam is steel, now for the distributor gear I wasn’t able to find a steel one, however I have on hand a bronze/brass (forget which) from comp, as well as a melonized from Howards. Both are linked below. Which would you run?
I am leaning towards the Howard’s.
Use the Howards gear. The bronze gears are sacrificial and will fill your oil with bronze dust. You need to let the machine shop change that gear, unless you have done it before and have a press and some special tools.
Your gear goes on at 3.071 to 3.078
Rodger. Fortunately it’s not the first time doing this, I’ve done it before for a friends 289 which has the same press fit set up. Thanks for the picture also!
just never delt with the whole billet cam situation, it just needed a new gear, I think, I can’t remember but I do remember having to change the gear
I guess I am confused here.
My understanding was you had a flat-tappet cam lobe failure.
I did too after about 4-years on my Comp cam. no.1 hole, but don't remember if the lobe was intake or exhaust. (Ford 300 inline six).
I removed the grill inserts, ac condenser, and radiator to change cam. Whatever damage in engine, if any, was not noticeable, and That was back in 2002. I still am driving the '77 w/ 300 six F350 and engine runs like new with the early '60's grind Clevite Cam which replaced the Comp Cam w/ flat lobe.
If i am correct here, you are not refurbing your old engine, but are installing a newer engine w/ roller cam ?
We all sure have different means of reaching the end.
Now you can get some real HP if putting in a roller cam engine. Enjoy !
Pressed the distributor gear today, put it in and measured to be at 3.075 which is in the middle of the range. Now, when I stabbed it in and went to the underside it looked like the gear was sitting on the block (don’t know the correct term)
now I don’t remember this being an issue on the 302 which I had pressed before. I think different specs but same process of removing and installing, and having to measure.
The gear is supposed to set on the pad in the block. Use the alternative method in the page I posted to check end play. That works best with the "O" ring removed. Press down on the shaft and see if you can move the housing up a little.
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