I will be pulling the valve cover off the driver side in the next couple days. I have been getting an intermittent code that leads me to believe it is time to spend 50 cents...

I have done some research and am aware of the torque values of the injectors and the hold downs as well as the covers. My question is as most photos I seen of the inside are a bit blurry, so I wanted to make sure I had the correct tools on hand. I would like to know if the brackets and injectors are regular bolts or torxs.

I will also be ordering new boots in the morning from Clay as they are originals on the cooler pipes.

 

They are regular bolt heads.

 

Thank you sir.. Sometimes we find weird things when we open them up. Did not want one of those surprises on a job that should take a couple cups of coffee to finish.

 

Just did this the other day myself. Regular bolts and you won't even need that blasted disappearing 10 mm. 8mm for both injector and rocker bolts.13mm (1/2 inch) for valve covers, might want a universal socker for back bolt. Phillips screw driver for the doghouse if you remove it. Don't know if that alst is necessary, but I did it anyway since my o-rings were leaking.

I could be wrong, but I think this one is just going to cost you 25 cent.

 

It will eventually cost me 50 cents but at the moment just 25. I will however prep the spare part for latter on the sanding disc.

 

Since you are pulling the valve covers for the first time in many years, why not get new gasket assemblies as well? Nothing lasts forever and the rubber bead going around the rim will bound to be hardened up a bit and won't be able to do their job as well as designed.

 

Ditto as Dan suggested. Also, from pics posted recently from various members it appears that after market UVCHs tend to develop cracks, so while in there consider replacing the harnesses for the GPs and injectors.

 

Wait until you work on a German vehicle (especially MBs). Everything on there is Torx. Very often a Torx socket head.

 

Edit: Herpes also.

 

Therein lies the rub.

Replace with new, just to have new?

Or keep OEM, which while now old, may very well have been made with better / longer lasting materials than what new replacements are made from today?

My 7.3L made it to 20 years of operation without ever having a valve cover pulled. All original glow plugs, injectors, UCVH, and no quarters.

When finally digging under them about a year ago or so, I thought for a minute about the original valve cover gaskets... if they should be changed or not. I ultimately decided to not fix what wasn't broken, and just address the well known fault that brought me under the valve covers in the first place... the harness connector had wiggled out a little bit. So I put the OEM designed shims ( 2C3Z-14A163-AB ) in place, popped in some new Motorcraft (from Ford) glow plugs, and kept the old original production valve cover gaskets right where they were.

The quality of readily available replacement parts has declined to such a degree that "old" often seems more trustworthy than new.

Here are what the factory clips (in lieu of quarters) look like:

 

If you decide to use the OEM clips instead of the quarters, install the clips on the bench OFF the truck.

When I replaced my aging UVCH's, gaskets and glow plugs in 2018 with Alliant and Motorcraft parts, I neglected to install the clips off the truck.

After the second time the first clip flew across the head and landed on the towel covering the injectors and oil passages, I said screw it. I didn't want third time to be the charm with Mr. Murphy looking over my shoulder.

Quarters installed easily and securely. I chalked the $15 cost of the clips up to "lesson learned" and sent the clips to SJBJ so he could take a swing.

Choose your poison... Just be confident in your decision and revisit if things don't work out.

 

That's exactly why the shims come three in a package... even though only two are needed.

While I was able to install mine in the truck without issue, and still have the third shim remaining in the bag, I still remember that there were definitely some Ford technician complaints back when these shims were first released.

 

2000 F250

 

I will replace the CAC boots while I have the pipes off but am having trouble getting Clay to respond as he is busy.

His site has two choices on each side for the 2001 7.3, straight 3 inch or 3 to 3 1/4 inch. Is there a standard or is it really hit and miss on these items. The intercooler and tubes are original if that makes a difference.

 

If you pull that PCV doghouse off...you better have the new o-rings.....don't say you haven't been warned.