I just got my 3rd Champion radiator under warranty for my 66 F250 in 3yrs. They told me that Electrolysis is causing the problem. I have been using 50 50 fluid and they tell me to use Evans coolant to eliminate the problem. $50 gal, wow seems like a lot. Anyone with experience using it?
evans coolant | eBay

 

When I had that issue I put an anode in and changed it every few oils changes. I have not tried that coolant.

 

How does that work and where did you put it?

 

I had a bung in the intake that was plugged. I threaded it into the manifold. The coolant ate that instead of the heat exchanger. I think I went through 3 of them until my son totaled the vehicle. It is supposed to be a sacrificial piece that gets corroded before anything else.

 

Which coolant have you been using? Champion states on their website that the green/yellow is recommended. https://shop.championcooling.com/art...Color-Do-I-Use I've been using green for nearly 2 yrs without issue.

 

I've been using green.

 

I think that is the stuff that Jay Leno uses in his vehicles, or something like it.

 

Some past discussion on the clubcobra site:
Evans Waterless Coolant - Club Cobra

 

Now I see that you need to remove all traces of the old coolant and water. The Prep coolant stuff will set you back over $120-150. Then the real stuff at $150-200. As far as I'm concerned I will keep replacing these at their cost, Life time warranty. I will look into this Anode thing. Heck, the original radiator lasted 50+ years no matter what you put in it. Snake oil!

 

Unless you live where it gets to 30 below zero, drink the water and run straight green. I've used nothing else for 20 years and my stuff is always very clean with zero rust or residues.
Even if you use a sacrificial anode, the junk created by the decomposition of the anode will still be there.
And try running a couple of extra ground straps.

The waterless stuff is great but damn!

 

As a concerned aluminum radiator guy, I saw this and did some reading.

It seems the main trouble is with the concentrated coolant us old farts were/are used to using. Water out of the tap is the culprit with its minerals and salts. The articles I've read say distilled water must be used. OR....Just used the un-concentrated stuff meant for modern cars. Most modern cars use aluminum radiators too. Along with aluminum everything else.

 

I don’t mean to rub it in, but . . . Actually, I’m lying, I DO mean to rub it in, just a little . . .

I am glad I bought Christmas’ stock radiator, had it re-cored, and installed it in my truck, BEFORE this problem had occurred, or else he may have changed his mind about letting it go. Incidentally, I then had my original one re-cored, and it sits in my shop awaiting installation in 20-30 years by my grandson, who will own my truck then. I may or may not be above-ground at that time.

Anyway, I have observed that every step further away from stock that you go on these old trucks brings problems. Not least of which is the boatloads of money you spend trying to make an old truck replicate a modern one. I like the old truck experience, warts and all.

Sure, I paid more to have them re-cored, than the price of a new one. But I do not need to figure out radiator hoses that will fit, which (expensive!) coolant to use, installing an anode to use, etc. And this is for just one non-stock alteration, so when you add up all the modifications and their associated problems, I know that for me and my skill-set, stock is far and away the best route. I want to drive and use my truck, not build, re-engineer, modify, problem-solve, and so forth. I have a life to live outside of the vehicles I drive, and that involves spending the majority of my time with family and friends - not in the garage.

 

I don't regret selling you the radiator. I have 2 more, 1 good one, the other needs recore. As long as they keep sending me new ones, I will keep swapping them out. Takes about 2hrs.

 

Are these aluminum core plastic tank radiators? Trying to understand the failure problem.

 

Solid aluminum. Upper tank where the core attaches is where it starts to leak.