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I have two parts in need of repair/replacement - the engine pivot bracket and the equalizer rod itself.
I’d like to consider all possibilities before taking things to a machine shop for custom work. If anyone has insight to part numbers or sources plz share. A ready to purchase part that will bolt directly in is most likely the preferred option.
I’m going to post details of each part in separate responses to this thread.
So the engine pivot rod is worn and loose in the bracket. The bracket is fine.
There is a replacement rod for other engines that looks identical on the business end. I’m thinking my best bet might be to get this machined to fit the bracket and welded in.
Thoughts:
-Simplest option is just get a clean one from a parts truck. I don't think this is a component there's a lot of demand for.
-If you want to go full meatball, the existing stud could be built up with a welder and ground down to spec. Then welded (or re-swaged if you want to get tricky) to the bracket. I did that with the equalizer and clutch pedal rod where their mating bushings fell apart.
-Modifying vs making a new stud from scratch might be a tossup. I have a lathe and I'm not sure if I was a real machinist which option I'd prefer for a customer.
My equalizer rod is worn even more than the pivot rod. Plus I think it might be home made given the quality of the welds. It did work but it’s time to fix things correctly.
Every hole in this thing is elongated. The attachment point for the release rod is also loose.
The machine shop can clean this up as well. Replacing would be easier and quicker if the parts are available. Which leads me to a possible solution.
NPD lists this equalizer rod but for an older application. Same engine though. Kinda odd it’s not listed for my truck. I’m inclined to give this a try but would prefer not playing the return game if it doesn’t work.
Can anyone speak from experience on this? Its actually got me wondering if any number of previous owners didn’t take some parts from an older truck and made them work here. Or maybe the parts stores are not listing the full spectrum of applications.
Thoughts:
-Simplest option is just get a clean one from a parts truck. I don't think this is a component there's a lot of demand for.
Agreed. Problem is the availability of parts trucks. Seemingly getting fewer are farther between. At least in NORCAL. The price of these trucks has gone through the roof around here. Even parts trucks are demanding a premium. A few years ago this wouldn’t have been a question.
I will keep a look out for a donor but I have to get this project finished so not sure how long I will be able to wait.
Got some parts in… Let me start with the engine mount.
I am going to stick with my idea of having the replacement pivot stud C8UZ-7A535-A machined and welded into the original bracket. I measured and the business end of this thing has the same dimensions.
This will set me back a few bucks but it’s the closest to new I think I will get having no good used parts or NOS available. I will post a pic once it’s done.
And now the equalizer bar… So I am grateful this was available. I picked it up from LMC (PN: 43-6210) for about $50. It’s worth noting that the same part is available elsewhere for about $100. This is the aftermarket equivalent to C8TZ-7528-B.
This thing looks good and will do it’s job but first I am going to give it a little extra attention. There are a couple things that I find typical of parts I have received from LMC…
First these welds… this thing will be subjected to lots of force, repeatedly. I don’t trust a few tack welds to hold up in the long run. It should be easy since the existing welds are holding everything in position so this is getting reinforced.
The second will be the pin where the release rod attaches. In typical LMC fashion, they drilled the hole in the middle rather than the end. So the release rod and the spring washers don’t fit. I am still looking at an issue with the release rod so I have to consider that as well but, I think this pin will have to be replaced.
When it’s all said and done, addressing the issues with the new equalizer will be cheaper and better than fixing everything wrong with the old one so this is a win. I do think with some attention to detail LMC could offer significantly better products. I will keep posting updates.
Note: I measured all dimensions on the new equalizer and other than the issues I mentioned, this thing is spot on.
Bit of an update. The equalizer pivot bracket on the engine side has been repaired. I temp installed it to ensure the welds would clear and everything checks good. A little por15 and this is ready for install.
So I have mocked up my equalizer… positioned the release rod. I have been looking to see if there is some sort of bushing that’s supposed to go into the D shaped eyelet of the rod. Per the Ford breakdown, there doesn’t seem to be one. Which makes no sense to me. This will cause unnecessary wear over time.
I am less than impressed with this LMC release rod. Probably going to purchase another from DC. But does show the play this will have without a bushing. Does anyone know the specs for the spring washers? Specifically how thick? Part number 357583-S These are 0.055”. Another LMC special. There is no spring in these at all. Probably will have to source this as well.
After doing a bit of research I am confident I have come up with a much better option that should work. I found an interesting setup from a photo posted by ‘Its_Green’. This is basically what I am duplicating for my own. I couldn’t find any part numbers or listing for this exact release rod in the truck catalogs but there is one for mustangs; various late 60’s models use them.
This pic posted by ‘Its_Green’ was the source of this idea. This setup should significantly reduce the amount of play that would be present going with the original model.
The rod on the right is NPD Item # 7521-8A / Ford PN: C70Z-7521-AR. They had a slightly shorter one available but I went with this for good measure not being completely certain if I’d need the extra length or not; once I get this mocked up I’ll determine how much I can cut off. I’m going to have the pin removed and the hole resized to accept the nylon bushing on the release rod. This bushing has the same specs as the other bushings on the clutch rod that comes down from the pedal assembly. It’s important to note that parts are easy to come by for future servicing.
If you are welding and fabricating- why not use rod ends wherever possible for smoother operation? For the D-shaped hole, I drilled it out and pressed in a well-sized bronze bushing to eliminate the slop.
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