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i did mine last week.
Mobil 1 5-30 full synthetic with Motorcraft filter
I noticed a drop of oil on the filter. I know it was nice and clean after the install. wiped it off, keeping an eye on it. hopefully it was just from the gasket. i put it on hand tight, then a little snug up with the filter wrench. never had an issue in the 30 years I've been doing oil changes. I hope I don't have to replace the filter and redo it 😕
I have four free full-service oil changes from my dealer from when I purchased my truck. The first change was a 1044 miles, the shop called to confirm I wanted to 'waste' a service at 1000 miles.......... Course I do, I'm not stupid.
Bingo. Totally agree. If you are concerned, curious, etc, test. That is all that is needed. OTOH, SWAGs can go on for an eternity and never reach a conclusion. Just anecdotal evidence is meaningless.
I will probably test since I never have and seems like it will be interesting and I could learn a thing or 2 about my truck.
... what would have been the pun if you had intended one? Anyway, OP, Costco brand (Kirkland) oil is some of the best on the market and is dirt cheap, it's worth getting a membership just for the oil
Draining the oil…down the drain…out of the oil pan…
No sense running high dollar oil when you’re just gonna change it at normal 3-7k intervals IMO. Any oil will do that just fine.
Now for long service intervals (diffs, t-case, trans), I can see running a “higher quality” oil…but unless you truly know the additive packages and base stock quality, it’s still just a best guess as to what the “better” oil would be. I may be wrong, but I haven’t heard of an oil company releasing their secret formula details.
I've found that diesel oil turns dark pretty quickly, so as was mentioned, don't use that to determine anything. Otherwise, I think there's plenty of good advice above. Good luck and keep on truckin'!
I figured it might be because it is new, I thought it was dark early for a gas motor.
Qualitative information is useful for debate. Especially on oil threads. Everyone has an opinion. One not superior to another. This question of the quality of oils is a valid concern. There are some legitimately crappy oils and crappy manufacturing and marketing going on out there. It's on a small scale, but it is out there. I know Walmart isn't making their oil. Not in the back of the store. Not even using Chinese slave labor. It's made domestically by a premium manufacturer. With that, here is a website of a laboratory that tests motor oils: https://pqia.org/ Go to the Products Tested tab and select the category. Nearly all oils test out fine and are what they say they are. If you go to the automotive oils, you can read up on some of those red and yellow marked oils to see what I mean about bad oils. Super Tech oils tested out fine and are what they say they are.
I switched to full synthetic at 2500 miles, my first change. I wanted to try Rotella "Gas Truck" but had trouble finding it. I went with Mobil One "Truck and SUV". My change interval is every 5000 miles.
I used Amsoil gear oils in the new Rubicon when I dumped the oil to pot the locker sensors. I have used Amsoil in the long interval components with good success in the past and they are my go to for diffs and the t-case. The truck will be switched over this spring to Amsoil in the diffs and t-case. Years ago in my 99 F350 PSD the t-case fluid would always look and smell burnt at service time. Switched to Amsoil for that and I was sold, "fixed" that problem.
I switched to full synthetic at 2500 miles, my first change. I wanted to try Rotella "Gas Truck" but had trouble finding it. I went with Mobil One "Truck and SUV". My change interval is every 5000 miles.
I used Amsoil gear oils in the new Rubicon when I dumped the oil to pot the locker sensors. I have used Amsoil in the long interval components with good success in the past and they are my go to for diffs and the t-case. The truck will be switched over this spring to Amsoil in the diffs and t-case. Years ago in my 99 F350 PSD the t-case fluid would always look and smell burnt at service time. Switched to Amsoil for that and I was sold, "fixed" that problem.
I believe the Ford uses an algorithm to figure out oil changes? That might change if you were to go synthetic. As I see it, they are using semi (read "CHEAP") oil so you may be able to go more or less. How did you arrive at 5000? I probably will dump mine and to a full synthetic change and do a UOA to see where it stand once the oil life meter says it is time.
I would definitely want to know why it smells burned. Might be in your mind, might be a problem. I personally never rely on my senses and send things out for testing when I can.
I believe the Ford uses an algorithm to figure out oil changes? That might change if you were to go synthetic. As I see it, they are using semi (read "CHEAP") oil so you may be able to go more or less. How did you arrive at 5000?
I think the gas engine Super Duty's get a simple oil minder, as opposed to the intelligent oil life monitor that the deisel engine has. So with the gas engine it is only basing the oil change indicator off of time and miles. With the 7.3l that might be 10k or 6 months. The 5k/6 month interval is recommended under special operating conditions for the gas engine.
I think the gas engine Super Duty's get a simple oil minder, as opposed to the intelligent oil life monitor that the deisel engine has. So with the gas engine it is only basing the oil change indicator off of time and miles. With the 7.3l that might be 10k or 6 months. The 5k/6 month interval is recommended under special operating conditions for the gas engine.
This, if you really want to minimize cost and run your oil until it’s truly done have Blackstone due the analysis.
all my vehicles I sent in a base line as they have no data at first. The send in another with a short interval, next with a few thousand more repeat until they tell you best interva. Make sure you maintain same oil brand as there are different additive pancakes. Doesn’t matter the brand just consistency that matters.
You'll be surprised what the test data reveals. Have had cars that broke the oil down quickly and needed 5,000 mile interval changes. I’ve had another that was around 7,500miles and another around 10,000miles. The 10,000miler maintained that until around 80miles and then started degrading the oil faster and reduced to 7,500miles. These were all full synthetic brands.
This is all done to gather actual data as every driver is different and how you drive and where you use the vehicular has way more to do than brand.
Some won’t take the time or energy to do this, which is fine, but Blackstone will tell you just change your oil with the brand you like within reasonable intervals if you don’t have the data to extend. However, the DIY people tend to drain way before the oil life is truly depleted.
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