I have a 1973 F100 6cyl 3 speed manual transmission non air. I purchased a cab from a 1979 F150 non air. I have replaced the motor and trans with 302 C4. I also replaced fenders doors and bed. I have rewired the truck with a custom wire harness from Centech Inc. My current problem when installing the heater controls with dual Tank switch into the dash the long piece of plastic on the back of the heater control hits the deforester duct work. The investigation I have done I think 73 to 79 non air is the same for all years I am assuming the dual tank switch has nothing to do with the problem. I have a spare mounting frame (holds radio and heat control) but they are both identical. Any help would be appreciated.

 

I had just the heat in 1986, I swapped to factory AC/heat in 1986, have not had those controls out since then but I have swapped radios a few times. The heat or heater/ac controls mount with 4 screws into the large mount bracket from the front, the 4 screws go through the bosses of the control into the bracket which surrounds the controls. Each time I have the radio out, I undo those 4 screws, then the 4 screws that hold the bracket to the dashboard, then I have to slightly twist the controls and work the controls back in behind the bracket as I remove the bracket. If the plastic arm is hitting the duct work behind the controls, sounds like the controls aren't seated against the bracket in place. As I recall, I tested fit then hooked up the controls, then set the radio into its spot, then I worked the bracket over the controls as I guided the radio into its holes.

Hard to see in your picture ...but looks like you're trying to mount the bracket with radio and heat controls already mounted .... I don't think that'll work.

Try it like this, first insert radio back into the dash deep, then set you controls in above the radio, both are just loosely in place. Then work the bracket into place, you'll have to twist the front of the controls to work the bracket past them, also pull the radio shafts and face into position. Lastly, remove the ashtray and it's holder and deal with the radio rear support.

I have never tried it with everything attached like this. Good luck!

 

Let me look at and compare some spare environmental panels I have and get back to you. X2 try take the lower radio support bracket off, set the radio on deep in the back like said, put the bracket that holds both parts in place and then put the environmental part in place. The long white arm is a fixed point to attach a cable end to. So you need it, or worse case trim off a bit and relocate the cable end clamp.

 

Thanks guys, this was too easy unfortunately I spent hours trying to figure this out.

Thanks again I know I will have more questions.

 

Well that is what FTE is here for, to help out fellow Ford Truck Enthusiasts.

So did you get it figured out?

 

I can recall the bewilderment when I first tackled it 36 years ago, "how does that big control set go back through that little hole ... it just has to some how" I told myself ... and with lots of twisting it "this way and that" it cleared in parts, but finally I learned, it does eventually go through. Took me hours too, or so it seemed.

 

Yes I figured it out and have it installed. Now I need to decide where to drill hole in door and pillar to run speaker wires.

 

The factory already figured out the best spot for them. There are dimples in the sheet metal for the holes, not exactly parallel. Carpenters has the reproduction harness with the proper grommets. No sure if it comes with instructions. If you go the factory route you will need hole saws and best to have doors off.

 

Where might those dimples be?

My holes were drilled about 3/8" and then I put a grommet in them, run speaker twin lead wire through, so with grommet, they are pretty snug. I did it so long ago, I don't recall any dimples, but I do know that are not exact same side to side. I know that the holes in the OEM doors were lower than the holes in the cab pillar ... I think maybe so any rain that got in would run lower ... or just to offset to make life easier on wire when door was shut? It's even just possible that the previous to 1986 owner drilled the holes??? Maybe the holes in mine are where any dimples were once located?

I forgot to take a closer look when I was swapping doors, I'm gonna soon I hope be running new not kinked wire, thinking might pull the small grommets, they are old anyway ... and open the holes in the pillar up and put in larger rubber filler plugs, cut a small hole for speaker wire, and then the wire can turn sideways in the rubber when the door is shut so I'm thinking the wire should last at least as long with no damage. If I cut a slit or X in the plugs, the wire might go in / out as door is opened / shut??? I haven't drilled my new doors yet, but I can drill them while mounted even if I do it from inside.

If I had thought of it with doors off, might have drilled slightly large holes in the formed "dent" area of the pillar to allow more room for my speaker wires to flex.

 

Just under the courtesy light switch.

We used a cheap right angle drill adapter to drill the holes in the doors without removing them.

We have a grommet in them now.

 

Oh, OK, then I missed them. I used you picture, the silver helped make it visible. I actually have my hole coming out of pillar about middle of that "dent", but had I been able to Iwould have put hole away from the back face and in from the side at the dent like the white arrow. I can drill my door where I want, even if I do it from inside the door. I'll just make holes bigger and give the lead more room now. Just trying to stop kinking it, but it's been OK a long time now.

 

Here they are.

 

Thanks for all the pictures this helped a lot. I have the holes all drilled didn't need to remove doors I used a DeWalt right attachment on my drill worked great. I bought several years ago at Home Depot for about $20.00 worth every dime

 

Thank you for the pics,I was late seeing them. I actually thought about the hole maybe going there to the side, could have reached there with a long bit bu I relocated a couple and rewired them before seeing this. I'd have wanted that grommet with the downward extension up there.