Installing a Drop Leg Jack
Here it is, fresh out of the box.
This is a weld on unit so I took some time mocking it up in several ways to make sure that I was considering all of the relevant variables. The jack drops down 13.5” and can be cranked down another 13.5” for a total of 27” travel.
Here is the worm’s eye view of the place on the frame where the jack will be welded.
I concluded that a 10K jack needed to have a bit more material to hold onto so fabricated a 6” wide piece of 3/8” thick steel which will tie both frame rails together better and extend the area I will have to weld the jack to.
Here it is from the front with magnets holding it in place prior to tack welding.
The view from behind shows how this piece will connect and strengthen everything.
The front weld was ground flat to accommodate the jack.
The back side is now all welded.
An F clamp holds the jack on center with …
… magnetic angle finders confirming that the trailer and the jack are level in both directions. Ready to weld.
Both sides and the back are welded to the greatest length possible.
A little paint should hold rust at bay for a while. When that dries, I will complete the job by returning the breakaway box to its old location and removing the old jack.
The Curt breakaway box has been returned to its former location and the old jack has been removed.
Safety chains had a lot of rust so spending a day in Evapo-Rust is prescribed. Once the rust is gone I will spray a little satin black to preserve them.
All de-rusted and painted. One has to act fast after rinsing and drying after EvapoRust lest flash rust appear. Compressed air and shop rags were used to get this done quickly before painting.
Mission accomplished.
My other fave adage is, "When in doubt, build it stout."













