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So I've been scouring google and this site and I can't seem to find anywhere that has the info for my setup. I have a 1984 Ford F350 Dually with a Dana 70, and I'm trying to find the procedure for setting up the bearing pre-load, since I've rebuilt the rear hub/brakes entirely. The part that really makes this hard is my truck came with a nylock nut and a tiny little lock pin that goes in the notch on the spindle and cuts into the nylock. does anyone have any resources for finding the procedure on this?
The wheel bearings on full floating rear axles are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant can also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary lubricant. The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings during normal operation.
Set the parking brake and loosen - do not remove - the axle shaft bolts.
Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the axle is parallel with the floor. Release the parking brake.
Remove the axle shaft bolts and lockwashers. They should not be re-used.
Place a heavy duty wheel dolly under the wheels and raise them so that all weight is off the wheel bearings.
Remove the axle shaft and gasket(s).
Remove the caliper. See Section 9.
Using a special hub nut wrench, remove the hub nut.
The hub nut on the right spindle is right hand thread; the one on the left spindle is left hand thread. They are marked RH and LH. NEVER use an impact wrench on the hub nut!
Remove the outer bearing cone and pull the wheel straight off the axle.
With a piece of hardwood or a brass drift which will just clear the outer bearing cup, drive the inner bearing cone and inner seal out of the wheel hub.
Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.
Wash the bearing cups and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear.
If the bearing cups are to be replaced, drive them out with a brass drift. Install the new cups with a block of wood and hammer or press them in.
If the bearing cups are properly seated, a 0.0015 in. (0.038mm) feeler gauge will not fit between the cup and the wheel hub. The gauge should not fit beneath the cup. Check several places to make sure the cups are squarely seated.
Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner outlined for the front wheel bearings in Section 1. Use a multi-purpose wheel bearing grease.
Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub. Install a new inner seal in the hub with a seal installation tool.
Wrap the threads of the spindle with tape and carefully slide the hub straight on the spindle. Take care to avoid damaging the seal! Remove the tape.
Install the outer bearing. Start the hub nut, making sure that the hub tab is engaged with the keyway prior to threading.
Tighten the nut to 65-75 ft.lbs. while rotating the wheel.
The hub will ratchet as torque is applied. This ratcheting can be avoided by using Ford tool No. T88T-4252-A. Avoiding ratcheting will give more even bearing preloads.
Back off (loosen) the adjusting nut 90° (1/4 turn). Then, tighten it to 15-20 ft. lbs.
Using a dial indicator, check endplay of the hub. No endplay is permitted.
Clean the hub bolt holes thoroughly. Replace the hub if any cracks are found around the holes or if the threads in the holes are in any way damaged.
Install the axle shaft, new flange gasket, lock washers and new shaft retaining bolts. Coat the bolt threads with thread adhesive. Tighten them snugly, but not completely.
Here are the details straight from the Ford 1984 service manual:
My handwritten notes of NAPA part numbers for the Dana 60 full-floater on my truck. I do not know if the nut and seal are the same on the 70. The lock wedge should be the same:
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