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You are right on the feed back system but no one asked what other things have been done to the motor as EFI EXH manifolds did not come on feed back motors.
So was a carb & distributor swap also done when the EXH manifolds were done?
He could still be running the factory carb & dist. with the EFI manifolds but if the rest of the feed back system is not in place and working, most are not working at this age, then yes it locks the timing.
I am running EFI manifolds with the factory carb & intake but mine, 81 F100, is not a feed back system and uses a vacuum advance dist.
Dave ----
Everything is stock as far as I know. I just did a little modding to the stock manifold.
I just got the truck a month or so ago and when I got it the manifold gasket was blown, which is why I had the manifold off. And since I had the manifold off I figured I'd try something that used to be done to 6s back in the 50s and split it 2 and 4. I got it all back together and drove it for a week or so, then heard another exhaust leak, so I opened the hood to see if it was the gasket or the plumbing and that's when I noticed it glowing.
Yes, putting the EFI manifolds on a carb'd model is a very popular upgrade.
However, the 84 has a computer controlled carburetor and ignition. So, unless it still has on O2 sensor, the computer will lock out the timing and it won't advance.
With the EFI manifolds, you'll also need a new ignition system. Either the pre-84 DuraSpark II, or an aftermarket
As well as a non-computer controlled carburetor.
Still, I don't think the timing not advancing would cause your manifolds to get that hot. Plenty of people have feedback carburetor setups that aren't working properly, and glowing manifolds is not a symptom I've heard of. Just lackluster performance.
You are right on the feed back system but no one asked what other things have been done to the motor as EFI EXH manifolds did not come on feed back motors.
So was a carb & distributor swap also done when the EXH manifolds were done?
He could still be running the factory carb & dist. with the EFI manifolds but if the rest of the feed back system is not in place and working, most are not working at this age, then yes it locks the timing.
I am running EFI manifolds with the factory carb & intake but mine, 81 F100, is not a feed back system and uses a vacuum advance dist.
Dave ----
The dist. is a feed back and timing is controlled by a computer.
It also looks like the carb is also a feed back one.
With that said if anything at all is out of wack the computer with go into "limp mode" and lock the timing down and think the carb goes rich.
There is a way to pull codes to see if the computer is locked. Then if you want to try and fix it you will need to try and find the needed parts and that could be where this all falls apart as you cant get some of the parts.
If you dont have smog check it is best to pick up a non-computer dist. and carb from an older 300 six.
Any thing 82 and earlier should work. You will also need the IGN box that sits on the inner fender and the harness that goes between the box & dist.
The parts can come from any 300 motor in a car, van or truck.
Some use a HEI dist as it only needs 1 wire , power, to run and no harness.
On the carb some have had good luck with carbs off Ebay.
Dave ----
Dave ----
If you dont have smog check it is best to pick up a non-computer dist. and carb from an older 300 six.
Any thing 82 and earlier should work. You will also need the IGN box that sits on the inner fender and the harness that goes between the box & dist.
The parts can come from any 300 motor in a car, van or truck.
Some use a HEI dist as it only needs 1 wire , power, to run and no harness.
On the carb some have had good luck with carbs off Ebay.
Dave ----
Dave ----
It did have the smog system, but it's been blocked/bypassed/removed. I do have an earlier engine out of a 77 with the carb and distributor. Could I just make a harness to hook up the other distributor and ignition box? If so, what gets connected to what? What will I do with all the leftover wires and vacuum lines?
In the picture of your timing, what do you mean that's where it's at?
Is that where your mark is when you bring the piston to TDC? If so, your harmonic balancer is way off.
If that's where it is when it's idling, did you disconnect the SPOUT plug before taking a reading?
As for the carb from your 77 engine, those will work great.
You'll also need an ignition control module.
It'll plug into stock plugs that will already be on the driver's side coming out of the firewall. You'll then need to make a wiring harness. There's plenty of schematics on line and they're easy to make.
In the picture of your timing, what do you mean that's where it's at?
Is that where your mark is when you bring the piston to TDC? If so, your harmonic balancer is way off.
If that's where it is when it's idling, did you disconnect the SPOUT plug before taking a reading?
As for the carb from your 77 engine, those will work great.
You'll also need an ignition control module.
It'll plug into stock plugs that will already be on the driver's side coming out of the firewall. You'll then need to make a wiring harness. There's plenty of schematics on line and they're easy to make.
If that's where your timing mark is at, then you have something wrong.
You most likely need to replace your harmonic balancer. The vulcanized rubber that holds the outer and inner rings together let's go over time and the outer ring slips.
Best case scenario, your timing mark is way off.
Worst case, it can actually come off while the engine is running and can do damage.
The SPOUT connector is a plug on the side of the distributor that sends a signal from the computer to advance the timing. If it's plugged in when you set the base timing with a timing light, you'll set the timing wrong.
Same as with a vacuum advance distributor (which it what the DuraSpark II setup uses) where you unplug the vacuum line to keep it from advancing when setting timing.
Definitely get your harmonic balancer replaced.
It's not too hard. Just need to drain the coolant, pull out the radiator, and then pull it off. Most parts shops will rent the tools for it. Make sure you get the ones for harmonic balancers, and not just generic pullers.
In the picture of your timing, what do you mean that's where it's at?
Is that where your mark is when you bring the piston to TDC? If so, your harmonic balancer is way off.
If that's where it is when it's idling, did you disconnect the SPOUT plug before taking a reading?
As for the carb from your 77 engine, those will work great.
You'll also need an ignition control module.
It'll plug into stock plugs that will already be on the driver's side coming out of the firewall. You'll then need to make a wiring harness. There's plenty of schematics on line and they're easy to make.
I believe the yellow wire with plug is it.
As said the 77 parts will work.
If you saved the ICM (fender box) and the harness it would all plug into your truck.
After you have the non-feed back parts installed and the motor running the best it ever has you can remove the feed back wires.
Just be careful as I think 1 or 2 wires that tie into the feed back system also go to the normal needed to run system.
Most start at the computer inside the truck and work to the engine bay pulling 1 wire at a time so you know where they go.
Dave ----
If that's where your timing mark is at, then you have something wrong.
You most likely need to replace your harmonic balancer. The vulcanized rubber that holds the outer and inner rings together let's go over time and the outer ring slips.
Best case scenario, your timing mark is way off.
Worst case, it can actually come off while the engine is running and can do damage.
The SPOUT connector is a plug on the side of the distributor that sends a signal from the computer to advance the timing. If it's plugged in when you set the base timing with a timing light, you'll set the timing wrong.
Same as with a vacuum advance distributor (which it what the DuraSpark II setup uses) where you unplug the vacuum line to keep it from advancing when setting timing.
Definitely get your harmonic balancer replaced.
It's not too hard. Just need to drain the coolant, pull out the radiator, and then pull it off. Most parts shops will rent the tools for it. Make sure you get the ones for harmonic balancers, and not just generic pullers.
Just got the new balancer and in the process of replacing it.
I believe the yellow wire with plug is it.
As said the 77 parts will work.
If you saved the ICM (fender box) and the harness it would all plug into your truck.
After you have the non-feed back parts installed and the motor running the best it ever has you can remove the feed back wires.
Just be careful as I think 1 or 2 wires that tie into the feed back system also go to the normal needed to run system.
Most start at the computer inside the truck and work to the engine bay pulling 1 wire at a time so you know where they go.
Dave ----
Okay. I'm replacing the balancer right now and will check the timing afterwards and see where I'm at.
I didn't get an icm with the 77 motor, but I did get a new one.
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