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Not the same engine I have but I would start with all battery connections and grounds everywhere. Clamps, cables, battery tops, engine ground connections. Check the batteries for condition and charge. I suspect you have an issue there. There are some common issues there. These trucks do not like fluctuation of any type like that when it comes to voltage and amps available.
Take a look at the wiring plugs going to the drivers side valve cover gasket. The codes you have are for low circuit voltage for injector 2 and injector 8. Look for signs of melting on the plugs to the valve cover. If those look good, pull the valve cover and take a peek at the under valve cover harness, again look for melting of the plugs/wires. I suspect you will find the cause of your codes there. If the outer plugs are melted they will need replacing. When replacing the plug, cut and solder in the new wire one wire at a time to make sure to get the wires back in the right order, as the replacement pigtails may not have the same color wires as the original one. You will also have to change the valve cover gasket if the plugs are bad.
Pulled valve cover gasket and under valve harness plugs that go into 8 and 1 are burnt. Going to replace them, truck has 340000 miles and all injectors look the same and have the same numbers on them. They all seemed to buzz fine, what should I do which them. Do you think they are original at that mileage or likely have been replaced.
I just ran it with out valve covers and pulled each plug and it bogged each time. I noticed what I think is the oil spout for injector 4 isn’t putting out as much oil as the rest seem to
What color are the solenoids on the injector tops? New solenoids are yellow, and the oil darkens them with age. The rebuilt injectors I have seen are marked somewhere, either with an R, or with the rebuilders name. I would venture a guess that they are probably originals. Install a new gasket and under cover harnesses, and outer pigtails if they are bad and give it a go.
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