2003 6.0 No Start
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Still no success. I checked all FICM-related fuses, all look good. I did order a new ficm relay because why not (how would one know if the relay is bad, would the presence of injector buzzing mean it’s good?). I unplugged injectors and cycled KOEO to determine which ones buzz, just #5 tonight. With all injectors plugged in and cranking it sounded like it’s trying to fire from maybe one cylinder on the right bank, and unplugging #5 confirmed that it’s the only cylinder trying to fire because it just cranks with it unplugged. So……I don’t know if that’s definitive that it’s injectors.
I double-checked ficm connectors to make sure none of the wires backed out, all the pins on the ficm are straight, all 3 plugs click in.
I haven’t done the hpo leak test, I didn’t think it was necessary with my ICP and IPR readings. Should it be done?
I double-checked ficm connectors to make sure none of the wires backed out, all the pins on the ficm are straight, all 3 plugs click in.
I haven’t done the hpo leak test, I didn’t think it was necessary with my ICP and IPR readings. Should it be done?
Last edited by pnw_at; Feb 2, 2022 at 10:50 PM. Reason: Added more info
Fleet Owner
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Lets step back a bit. Have you fixed the P0046 issue?
When you said you did the bubble test and it passed, which bubble test did you do? There are two (one while filling the fuel bowl, and one when cranking)
You tried a known good FICM and you posted that it seemed to help (based on post #13). If it helped any, then you have that to address.
No need to do an air test when you are getting well over 500 psi when cranking.
How old are your injectors and where were they purchased if they are not the originals?
I have suggested a few times that it is your injectors. If they will not buzz when commanded, then it is the FICM, the wiring, or the injector.
When you said you did the bubble test and it passed, which bubble test did you do? There are two (one while filling the fuel bowl, and one when cranking)
You tried a known good FICM and you posted that it seemed to help (based on post #13). If it helped any, then you have that to address.
No need to do an air test when you are getting well over 500 psi when cranking.
How old are your injectors and where were they purchased if they are not the originals?
I have suggested a few times that it is your injectors. If they will not buzz when commanded, then it is the FICM, the wiring, or the injector.
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Lets step back a bit. Have you fixed the P0046 issue? I had a couple questions on these tests to confirm I'm doing them correctly, what color wire do pin 1 and 2 correspond with, I have dark blue and black/blue stripe? And when unplugging PCM connector, I am only unplugging #2 that the vgt circuit is on correct?
When you said you did the bubble test and it passed, which bubble test did you do? There are two (one while filling the fuel bowl, and one when cranking) I did the one while cranking with the jumper wire. Not familiar with the first one.
You tried a known good FICM and you posted that it seemed to help (based on post #13). If it helped any, then you have that to address. It had different programming, earlier Ford programming than mine, and cycled the injectors differently(at KOEO and after key off). I can't with confidence say that it made any positive improvements with the other ficm. I did hear more injectors buzz, but I also had the block heater plugged in for several hours prior to the swap and unfortunately do not recall if I checked my ficm with the warm block before the swap. After swapping back I had multiple injectors buzzing with my ficm. But the injector buzzing was and has been inconsistent with both ficm's. Also, the cranking sounded the same between the two ficm's, like only a single cylinder trying to fire on the right bank.
No need to do an air test when you are getting well over 500 psi when cranking. That's what I was thinking, but someone told me I still need to do it.
How old are your injectors and where were they purchased if they are not the originals? They may be the originals, I just found the PO's number, he's the original owner, I'm going to give him a call today.
I have suggested a few times that it is your injectors. If they will not buzz when commanded, then it is the FICM, the wiring, or the injector. I'm going back and forth with the ficm possibly being a problem, it did work in my dad's truck, cycled all the injectors and ran perfect. But I don't know enough about ficm's to know if that's a for sure tell that it's good. As for wiring, what else should I be looking at? And if it's injectors, what could cause the injectors to **** the bed that quickly?
When you said you did the bubble test and it passed, which bubble test did you do? There are two (one while filling the fuel bowl, and one when cranking) I did the one while cranking with the jumper wire. Not familiar with the first one.
You tried a known good FICM and you posted that it seemed to help (based on post #13). If it helped any, then you have that to address. It had different programming, earlier Ford programming than mine, and cycled the injectors differently(at KOEO and after key off). I can't with confidence say that it made any positive improvements with the other ficm. I did hear more injectors buzz, but I also had the block heater plugged in for several hours prior to the swap and unfortunately do not recall if I checked my ficm with the warm block before the swap. After swapping back I had multiple injectors buzzing with my ficm. But the injector buzzing was and has been inconsistent with both ficm's. Also, the cranking sounded the same between the two ficm's, like only a single cylinder trying to fire on the right bank.
No need to do an air test when you are getting well over 500 psi when cranking. That's what I was thinking, but someone told me I still need to do it.
How old are your injectors and where were they purchased if they are not the originals? They may be the originals, I just found the PO's number, he's the original owner, I'm going to give him a call today.
I have suggested a few times that it is your injectors. If they will not buzz when commanded, then it is the FICM, the wiring, or the injector. I'm going back and forth with the ficm possibly being a problem, it did work in my dad's truck, cycled all the injectors and ran perfect. But I don't know enough about ficm's to know if that's a for sure tell that it's good. As for wiring, what else should I be looking at? And if it's injectors, what could cause the injectors to **** the bed that quickly?
Fleet Owner
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Based on your last post, the FICM is probably good......
Have you done all the oil maintenance on time?
Are you using 15W40 oil below 20 *F?
Are you using a tall oil filter cap with a short OEM oil filter?
The other bubble test is to see if air is getting into the fuel from anywhere between the tank and the fuel pump.
Remove the secondary fuel filter.
Remove any standing fuel in the filter bowl.
Have someone turn the key n while you watch the filter bowl fill up. Be prepared to have your friend ready to shut off the key quickly!
If you see any bubbles while the bowl is filling, then that is an issue.
Have you done all the oil maintenance on time?
Are you using 15W40 oil below 20 *F?
Are you using a tall oil filter cap with a short OEM oil filter?
The other bubble test is to see if air is getting into the fuel from anywhere between the tank and the fuel pump.
Remove the secondary fuel filter.
Remove any standing fuel in the filter bowl.
Have someone turn the key n while you watch the filter bowl fill up. Be prepared to have your friend ready to shut off the key quickly!
If you see any bubbles while the bowl is filling, then that is an issue.
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Based on your last post, the FICM is probably good......I will likely send it in to be tested and get the PHP tuning from CBM.
Have you done all the oil maintenance on time? Always 5000-7500, never over, never low on dipstick at oil change
Are you using 15W40 oil below 20 *F? 5W40 Rotella T6 since I bought it at 137k miles
Are you using a tall oil filter cap with a short OEM oil filter? Only Motorcraft FL2016 filters, Sinister Diesel cap
The other bubble test is to see if air is getting into the fuel from anywhere between the tank and the fuel pump.
Remove the secondary fuel filter.
Remove any standing fuel in the filter bowl.
Have someone turn the key n while you watch the filter bowl fill up. Be prepared to have your friend ready to shut off the key quickly!
If you see any bubbles while the bowl is filling, then that is an issue. I’ll add this to the list for testing today.
Have you done all the oil maintenance on time? Always 5000-7500, never over, never low on dipstick at oil change
Are you using 15W40 oil below 20 *F? 5W40 Rotella T6 since I bought it at 137k miles
Are you using a tall oil filter cap with a short OEM oil filter? Only Motorcraft FL2016 filters, Sinister Diesel cap
The other bubble test is to see if air is getting into the fuel from anywhere between the tank and the fuel pump.
Remove the secondary fuel filter.
Remove any standing fuel in the filter bowl.
Have someone turn the key n while you watch the filter bowl fill up. Be prepared to have your friend ready to shut off the key quickly!
If you see any bubbles while the bowl is filling, then that is an issue. I’ll add this to the list for testing today.
Last edited by pnw_at; Feb 3, 2022 at 12:11 PM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,901
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AK2 is a test to see if you get power at the VGT connector (at the turbo).
One probe on pin 1 and the other probe on the battery (-) terminal (key on)
What do you get? (if you don't know which pin is the 12V power, then check voltage on both pins relative to ground - one shoul be over 10V and the other at 0).
Ignore AK3 and AK7 unless you have a means to command the vgt solenoid
One probe on pin 1 and the other probe on the battery (-) terminal (key on)
What do you get? (if you don't know which pin is the 12V power, then check voltage on both pins relative to ground - one shoul be over 10V and the other at 0).
Ignore AK3 and AK7 unless you have a means to command the vgt solenoid
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,901
Likes: 3,617
AK4 and 5 are at the VGT connector also, you just want the PCM connector disconnected to do those two tests.
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7,000,000 ohms. I only had the code show itself once, and that was right when I hooked up the borrowed ficm, just like that one random inj code. Now to the bubble test.
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No bubbles in the bowl, cycled to KOEO twice until the bowl was completely full, not a single bubble.
I have a new OEM ficm/injector harness showing up this week. Also a new ficm relay possibly tomorrow. I’m going to call circuit board medics about my ficm in the AM and send that off to them for testing (should probably try the new relay first). I’m undecided if I’ll pull the injectors now or wait for the ficm to be checked out, test it again, then pull them if still no start. Not sure what else to check.
If I strike out with the relay and ficm and remove the injectors my plan was to send them somewhere like Diesel Injectors So Cal for rebuilding, any experience out there with injector shops rebuilding 6.0 injectors? Injector shops should be able to bench test the injectors to confirm health correct?
I have a new OEM ficm/injector harness showing up this week. Also a new ficm relay possibly tomorrow. I’m going to call circuit board medics about my ficm in the AM and send that off to them for testing (should probably try the new relay first). I’m undecided if I’ll pull the injectors now or wait for the ficm to be checked out, test it again, then pull them if still no start. Not sure what else to check.
If I strike out with the relay and ficm and remove the injectors my plan was to send them somewhere like Diesel Injectors So Cal for rebuilding, any experience out there with injector shops rebuilding 6.0 injectors? Injector shops should be able to bench test the injectors to confirm health correct?
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I will give them a call. Thanks again.
I’ll post up tomorrow if the relay shows up and makes any difference.
I’ll post up tomorrow if the relay shows up and makes any difference.