NO BRAKES
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 70
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From: Red Feather Lakes Colo.
NO BRAKES
I just installed new brake lines and a dual reservoir M/C power booster brake unit on my 1962 F250 4x4.Bench bled the M/C and bled the new lines twice, found what I think is a good vacuum source off the back of the intake and ran a new hose to the power booster. When I start and run the engine I still can put the pedal all the way to the floor but after 3or 4 pumps the brakes do pump up but don't stay that way. They also don't pump up as far as I thought they would. I got the power brake setup from Summit because they claimed it would work on my truck . Part # SUM 760214 What am I missing?.....Bob
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,469
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From: Tri Cities, TN
Do you have front disc brakes? That master is for disc- drum. Don't' know if that is the problem though, sounds like there is a lot of air in the system or you need to adjust the brake shoes.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,469
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From: Tri Cities, TN
Remembered something. Disc brake masters do not have residual pressure valves, but drum masters do. Without a residual pressure valve in the front brakes if they are drum the brake return springs will push all the fluid back into the master and you will have to pump them up every time.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 70
Likes: 6
From: Red Feather Lakes Colo.
Thanks for the feedback. With the original jar single M/C the brakes worked OK but needed real pedal pressure as to be expected with that setup. If I want to use the existing M/C if possible do I put a RPV on just the front circuit or both circuits ? Also where along each circuit to I put the RPV? Also where is a good place to get the correct RPVs Thanks...Bob
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
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From: Angier, NC
Is that master for a disc / disc or drum / disc system?
If disc / disc then the PRV would be to the rear system and can be added right at the master going to the rear.
IIRC the valve comes in 2 different psi, 3 & 5 but that could be wrong also? As for what one I cant answer that and have not seen it posted how to know.
Check on Summits site or call them but I want to say I have seen them on Speed way's site or was it some other site?
Could Google them and see what comes up. https://www.google.com/search?q=brak...hrome&ie=UTF-8
At the top is Speedway and they list 2 & 10 PSI valves
BTW the only way I could get all the air out of my system that was open for years as I was rebuilding the truck was to use a pressure bleeder that I built out of PVC pipe and some fittings.
Also make sure the drum brakes are adjusted before bleeding.
Dave ----
If disc / disc then the PRV would be to the rear system and can be added right at the master going to the rear.
IIRC the valve comes in 2 different psi, 3 & 5 but that could be wrong also? As for what one I cant answer that and have not seen it posted how to know.
Check on Summits site or call them but I want to say I have seen them on Speed way's site or was it some other site?
Could Google them and see what comes up. https://www.google.com/search?q=brak...hrome&ie=UTF-8
At the top is Speedway and they list 2 & 10 PSI valves
BTW the only way I could get all the air out of my system that was open for years as I was rebuilding the truck was to use a pressure bleeder that I built out of PVC pipe and some fittings.
Also make sure the drum brakes are adjusted before bleeding.
Dave ----
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2014
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Check out the above mentioned issues...but ultimately it sounds like air in the system. I always use Dot 5 from which it is sometimes hard to eliminate all the air. These suggestions work for me. Vacuum bleed using a Mityvac or other system. Gravity bleed....leave the bleeder valves open for a day or so, then close them up and bleed as usual with pedal pressure. Make sure during pedal bleeding, that you are closing the bleeder as the brake pedal reaches the floor. If all the air is removed, regardless of which fluid you are using, the pedal should be solid. If you can pump it up, or it slowly sinks....air is in the system or there is a leak.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,469
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From: Tri Cities, TN
Thanks for the feedback. With the original jar single M/C the brakes worked OK but needed real pedal pressure as to be expected with that setup. If I want to use the existing M/C if possible do I put a RPV on just the front circuit or both circuits ? Also where along each circuit to I put the RPV? Also where is a good place to get the correct RPVs Thanks...Bob
You need to call Summit.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2021
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You can actually put in a stand alone residual pressure valve. Wilwood makes 'em.
It would go in the line going to the front brakes, somewhere between the master and the tee fitting.
This is a band-aid though. You would be better off with a master for a drum/drum system, assuming that's what you have. You did not actually specify
Also, make sure the brake shoes are adjusted properly too. That also cause excessive pedal travel
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...oaAuBfEALw_wcB
It would go in the line going to the front brakes, somewhere between the master and the tee fitting.
This is a band-aid though. You would be better off with a master for a drum/drum system, assuming that's what you have. You did not actually specify
Also, make sure the brake shoes are adjusted properly too. That also cause excessive pedal travel
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...oaAuBfEALw_wcB
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