1995 f150 5.0l v8 Eddie Bauer

Hey! So Im taking off for a road trip tomorrow and went to have the oil changed at a valvoline drive-thru place because I didn't have time to do it myself. Anywho, they said they couldn't because the threads in the pan were falling out? I've never heard of this before. Is this an actual thing or are they just not bright...? They were also trying to tell me my truck needs 5w-20 oil, when the manual says 10w-30 and that's what I've always put in it.... Just checking here to make sure I'm not crazy.

If the thread thing is legit, how is that fixed?

 

You usually change the oil yourself but didn’t notice the oil plug threads were damaged? I don’t know if there is a thread repair for the pan bolt. I would say replacing the oil pan is the best repair.

At some point the recommended oil changed to 5W-30 so they might be correct about that.

 

I've always done my own oil changes. Just am leaving tomorrow so am packing and getting ready and was hoping to have it done quickly. I've read something about upping the plug size but idk about that...

My manual says I can do either 10w-30 or 5w-30. I live in SoCal and don't have extreme cold so I normally do 10w-30. The guy was saying 5w-20.

 

So did you have any problems removing or installing the oil plug or not?

I misread the -20 vs -30 weight. I’d say you are fine with 10W-30. In my owner’s manuals there is an oil viscosity vs air temp chart. If your temps are within that range then you are fine.

 

No issues with the plug before

 

Thread's falling out...love that. Yeah, I have the same truck as you. 253,XXX miles, rough life, Eddie Bauer, 4wd, ext cab, 5.0. When I remove the oil drain plug, it becomes loose after the 1st , 3 or 4 threads, and stays that way till it comes out. So, I guess the threads are falling out, lol. Glad it's tight when it snug it up to the pan.

And yes, Ford spec'ed 5w-20 somewhere around 2000 or mid 2000's for all it's passenger car and trucks, ranging from late 80's or early '90's. There is a TSB from Ford hanging around concerning this.

So...if the threads were falling out, how did the tech determine this? Did they drain the oil, inspect the plug and plug threads in the pan?
Stay away from that place...

 

Literally the FIRST time I take it somewhere Thinking "Oh lube techs can't be THAT bad..." dear god... I'll just do it after I reach where I'm headed. Should be fine. I was concerned how they "inspected it" too. I just wanted to get the hell out cause they took forever to just tell me that. Live and learn I suppose

 

I agree how do you know that without pulling it ,if it is you might could tap it to next size pipe plug and use a pipe tapered pipe tap or if its looking ruff maybe a little Teflon tape or dope just for security tell you get it fixed

 

The last time I took my car to Jiffy Lube in Albuquerque they set my car on fire.

 

My wife takes her car to the quick lube/oil change places always.
I tried it once for an oil change, engine oil change that is, the messed with every thing that had oil in it, with out my knowledge.

Anyways, they forgot to put the rear end oil plug back in. Rear end lasted about 20km before it blew.

So, got an oil change, a little down time, and a fully rebuilt re-end with new bearings, new axle, and ring and pinion.

Risky, and I will NEVER recommend any of those drive through shops ever!

 

Ive never had anyone (I mean anyone) do my oil for me in anything and that includes my first car when 16. It was interesting getting a car up ramps with a dirt driveway and the dirt was slightly wet so it did a lot of slipping on the ramps, but enough bone headed attempts I got it up there. Also figured out how to do the oil change but that was only a matter of small detail.

Anyway, I wouldnt ever trust a lube tech with my life let alone car, which id rather trust them with my life before the car since the car didnt deserve any wrong doing.


Id say get an oversized plug meant for oil pans with stripped threads. I think they make those, well, it may not work for a steel pan especially if its thick enough. hmm.. I guess I would find the extent of the damage.

5w20 is ford motor companys recommendation which superscedes the manaul for Gasoline efficiency purposes.

You have no issue using 5w30 or 10w30 with your engine assuming your using 5w30 if its colder or 10w30 if its hotter outside.

This is oversimplification, but the idea is there. 5w20 is going to be better than 10w30, for example, in -20 degree weather for your engine, but 5w20 is not as good as 10w30, for example, at 100 degrees outside.
But dont take those extremes as a "what oil you are limited to" but use your noggin
I personally just put 5w20 for the first time in my trucks life last november when 5w30 and 10w30 was the whole life time till then. at 122k its definitely made startup quicker with our -30 temps but its getting 10w30 when its spring because summer gets HOTT. also, I used a synthetic 5w20 for better cold flow however I usually have a conventional oil because of the low mileage the truck sees I usually would only change the oil once a year and in the spring because it wouldnt get used under most situations in this part of the year. I usually had a farm and fleet 12 quart case on standby that all my small engines and air cooled doo dads use 10w30 for that the f150 shared from. synthetic only because valvoline full syntehtic 5w20 was on sale at the dollar store, I used a FL-1a or whatever Motorcraft filter every time


heres proof

 

Then you should be fine unless they stripped it out.

A long time ago, I worked at a gas station with a full service island. One time a woman came in for gas so I asked if she wanted the oil checked. She told me she just came from getting it changed at a quick lube place but said to check it anyway. Nothing on the dipstick. I ended up putting 3 quarts in it. Capacity was 4-1/2 quarts.

 

thank god you were the person working that day