Which 351W do I have?
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Trailering
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
I don't have the used torque converter anymore. I would need to get one. Any advice on which one?
Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
Im ready to upgrade my heads and cam. CAM you give me advice on which heads and CAM to get? My budgetis around 2-2.5k for both heads.
I don't want to add an EFI, want to keep the carb on it but i want to get more HP and Torque.
Can you recommend me parts and estimate the HP based on adding those?
I don't want to add an EFI, want to keep the carb on it but i want to get more HP and Torque.
Can you recommend me parts and estimate the HP based on adding those?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,010
Likes: 405
From: NE Ohio
Any meaningful head upgrade will also necessitate a change in rockers since most aftermarket heads use stud-mounted rocker arms. The stock heads have 64cc chambers, so if you want to stay close to that for the same compression with your cast pistons. Stick with a 185-200cc intake port, and roller cam springs. $800-1200 for the heads. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...5win/make/ford . another $200 for rockers. Pushrods - must be hardened to use with guideplates. another $150
Since you already have a roller cam, just about any roller cam will be an improvement. I'm using a Comp XR276HR in the 393W in my 4000-pound car/driver The bonus with roller cams is you can still use the roller lifters you already have!
Since you already have a roller cam, just about any roller cam will be an improvement. I'm using a Comp XR276HR in the 393W in my 4000-pound car/driver The bonus with roller cams is you can still use the roller lifters you already have!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
I say leave the cam alone and just replace the heads with something like AFR 185's, go with the smaller chamber version to bump compression(stock CR is only 8.8 with dished pistons). This will add 100+ HP and maybe 50 lb/ft torque for peak output of 360hp/400tq or better.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,010
Likes: 405
From: NE Ohio
One thing that has not been discussed - What kind of exhaust are you running? Sinking big bucks into better heads won't get you much if you're choking everything down with stock cast iron manifolds! Your van installation makes things a bit tougher, but even a set of factory 351W/5.8L '93-95 Lightning or Fox-body 351W-swap shorty headers might do the trick.
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Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
One thing that has not been discussed - What kind of exhaust are you running? Sinking big bucks into better heads won't get you much if you're choking everything down with stock cast iron manifolds! Your van installation makes things a bit tougher, but even a set of factory 351W/5.8L '93-95 Lightning or Fox-body 351W-swap shorty headers might do the trick.
Im running those BBK Headers.
Primary Tube Outside Diameter (in.):
1 5/8 in.
Collector Diameter (in.):
2.50
Flange Thickness (in.):
0.38 in.
Ive watched a few videos on cold air intakes, this might sound a bit silly but would a cold intake tube and one of those massive filters add power?
Because im running an edelbrock carburetor not injection and im not having any ECU to measure air flow / density to adjust the fuel. Would a cold air intake be stupid in that case or still add some power?
Is it a done thing to add cold air intake on carbureted windsor small blocks?
What about those air pressure boxes with a massive filter in it and a wide tube to the carburetor?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,010
Likes: 405
From: NE Ohio
Many of those 'Cold Air Intakes' or filters are those big cone thing that are pulling air from behind the radiator support - IN the Hot engine bay! For 'cold air' you want something that pulls air from somewhere other than the hot (behind the radiator support) engine bay. On my carbureted 395W street/strip car, I have twin ducts pulling air from in front of the radiator to the air cleaner housing, not underhood air!
My warmed-over EFI 7.5L truck has the air being pulled from in front of the radiator support before going to the air filter as well!
My warmed-over EFI 7.5L truck has the air being pulled from in front of the radiator support before going to the air filter as well!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 208
From: SoCal
It's never good to have the engine sucking hot air, unless it's warming up in winter. Ever since the 60's, the manufacturers have been making their own versions of "cold air intakes". They usually have a temperature activated valve that have the intakes pulling air past the exhaust manifold while the engine is warming up, and then close off that door and open up another to a source of cold air, such as inside the fender well, or ahead of the radiator.
Allowing hot air into the intake will upset the fuel mixture, which will result in poorer combustion, which can lead to more emission, worse efficiency, and loss in power. A hot intake charge can also be more prone to detonation, which will also cause power loss. How much? I don't know, but the benefits must have been significant enough for them to implement this complicated arrangement of temperature activated vacuum switches, lines, air doors and ducts.
Allowing hot air into the intake will upset the fuel mixture, which will result in poorer combustion, which can lead to more emission, worse efficiency, and loss in power. A hot intake charge can also be more prone to detonation, which will also cause power loss. How much? I don't know, but the benefits must have been significant enough for them to implement this complicated arrangement of temperature activated vacuum switches, lines, air doors and ducts.
Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 72
Likes: 19
I truly hope you got your Bad *** van!
Have you been driving it and where are the pictures!?!?
I agree with leaving the cam you have. @conanski is correct.
Those dished pistons will allow you to run some really small CC heads, with larger runners. That's the only puzzle piece you're missing. Airflow, and compression.
Unless you want to CHANGE the personality of the engine, which I doubt.... I would not mess with that cam. It'll run real nice. Doing the heads to bump the compression to about 10:1ish or a little more will give you more torque and HP, everywhere in the rev range.
You do not want a rev happy race cam. Your cam is adequate to strike a good balance between performance, drivability, and longevity. You can make a lot of power, without turning it into a finicky hot rod. It'll just be a really strong running drivable engine. Not a choppy, lightswitch for a throttle, unwieldy beast. That'll get old and wear out quick in a van.
DRIVABILITY and THROTTLE RESPONSE TRUMP ALL.
Vote drivability 2024. Make Ford Great Again!
Have you been driving it and where are the pictures!?!?
I agree with leaving the cam you have. @conanski is correct.
Those dished pistons will allow you to run some really small CC heads, with larger runners. That's the only puzzle piece you're missing. Airflow, and compression.
Unless you want to CHANGE the personality of the engine, which I doubt.... I would not mess with that cam. It'll run real nice. Doing the heads to bump the compression to about 10:1ish or a little more will give you more torque and HP, everywhere in the rev range.
You do not want a rev happy race cam. Your cam is adequate to strike a good balance between performance, drivability, and longevity. You can make a lot of power, without turning it into a finicky hot rod. It'll just be a really strong running drivable engine. Not a choppy, lightswitch for a throttle, unwieldy beast. That'll get old and wear out quick in a van.
DRIVABILITY and THROTTLE RESPONSE TRUMP ALL.
Vote drivability 2024. Make Ford Great Again!
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