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I'm assuming a cylinder contribution test via forscan will suffice? Can you give details on how the test needs to be performed? I assume with engine at operating temp? I will double check terminals but pretty sure I cleaned them up when I put on the new batteries.
Yes, with Forscan...and while you're in the testing phase, go ahead and do a buzz test on the injectors. Because of the amount of oil that typically runs down the back of the block, I would also clean the terminals at the starter when you pull it to have it tested.
Yes, with Forscan...and while you're in the testing phase, go ahead and do a buzz test on the injectors. Because of the amount of oil that typically runs down the back of the block, I would also clean the terminals at the starter when you pull it to have it tested.
Ran buzz test cold twice, came back with no errors and seemed fine to my untrained ear. Going to run it again in the morning. Ran Cylinder contribution test four times, came back P0284 which with reading some seems to pop up a lot as a phantom code.
You have been through everything I can think of. Glow plugs will stay on for as long as 120 seconds and will even activate in summer temps for a little while. That first video is classic for glow plugs not working and since it starts normal when plugged in, I'm stumped. It does sound like it's cranking kind of slow, can you check RPM's during start?
This is a 40F cold start. I left the batteries on a trickle charger. Hard to tell due to the wind pushing the smoke out of the picture, but she billowed out a pretty good plume of smoke. Next up I'll check fuel pressure and going to replace the battery cables and cables to starter.
I am with the others in thinking that your starter is not spinning fast enough! Starter? batteries? charging system?
Heck mine smokes worse than that, but i am still running old old old injectors!
folks want to call the fire department on me thinking i have a fire in the driveway LOL
You have been through everything I can think of. Glow plugs will stay on for as long as 120 seconds and will even activate in summer temps for a little while. That first video is classic for glow plugs not working and since it starts normal when plugged in, I'm stumped. It does sound like it's cranking kind of slow, can you check RPM's during start?
I can tell by the progressive lack of responses I've stumped most peeps. I've started to double & triple check things I've already checked. I've tested the GP through the harness and the voltage at the harness connector. For the sake of my sanity I'm going to confirm amperage through the wires with it running. First video shows RPMs while starting. I could live data it with forscan if desired.
I am with the others in thinking that your starter is not spinning fast enough! Starter? batteries? charging system?
Heck mine smokes worse than that, but i am still running old old old injectors!
folks want to call the fire department on me thinking i have a fire in the driveway LOL
Starter is new, batteries are new, alternator is probably 5 years old but my edge CTS shows 14.1V while running. I'm going to take voltage readings at the starter while starting to see what they show. If all comes back good I'll have the starter tested, if bad I'll replace the cables. I love the truck and I'm dedicated to finding a solution......but holy hell.
I don't think your starter is the issue. The thing does get running, yet still has a miss and some pretty dark smoke at idle.
Get that fuel pressure number, so we can rule that out.
Assuming these FF 160/0 injectors are in good shape, I wonder if the 1023 tune is a factor. What if you pull the tuner and start it with the PCM only? Should be ok to run the single shots at idle without a tune for diagnosis.
I'd love to see a FORScan log of ICP, IPR%, FUELPW, RPM, and everything else you can include, from the how-to thread below. We might learn something from that. Attach the CSV file of your log, or use the PID charting tool, and we'll take a look.
I don't think your starter is the issue. The thing does get running, yet still has a miss and some pretty dark smoke at idle.
Get that fuel pressure number, so we can rule that out.
Assuming these FF 160/0 injectors are in good shape, I wonder if the 1023 tune is a factor. What if you pull the tuner and start it with the PCM only? Should be ok to run the single shots at idle without a tune for diagnosis.
I'd love to see a FORScan log of ICP, IPR%, FUELPW, RPM, and everything else you can include, from the how-to thread below. We might learn something from that. Attach the CSV file of your log, or use the PID charting tool, and we'll take a look.
Didn't have a chance to check the truck out this weekend. Did plug it in Saturday and she started right up without any smoke and no miss. I get that's warm and a different deal. I do have a couple questions. 1) How hard are cold smoky starts, such as I'm experiencing, on the motor? I don't want to hurt something diagnosing. And am I ok to run it if plugged in to start?
Looks like you’ve done a great job trying to nail this down so far. I’m not much help beyond what you’ve already tried but I can add that switching to 5w-40 helped my cold starts a lot.
Also adding a digital volt meter to the cigarette lighter port in the dash helps me know what the glowplugs are doing.
One of those wouldn't be a bad idea just to confirm the plugs are coming on with the key. Some people purposely disable the GP system since it's not needed in warmer weather and saves wear and tear on the batteries and GP system.
From the video it does sound an awful lot like somebody trying to cold start a motor in cold weather with no plugs or grid heater. You gotta really grind on the batteries and starter before it will catch, but his is cranking plenty fast. Voltage should drop from 12.4-12.6 resting to low 11's with the key rolled on and the wait to start light on to know the plugs are on. Doing long waits on the glow plugs or multiple key-on sequences doesn't really seem to be necessary if everything is working right. The fuel pump times out after 20 seconds so I try not let that shut off before cranking it over so it's got fuel pressure on startup.
Didn't have a chance to check the truck out this weekend. Did plug it in Saturday and she started right up without any smoke and no miss. I get that's warm and a different deal. I do have a couple questions. 1) How hard are cold smoky starts, such as I'm experiencing, on the motor? I don't want to hurt something diagnosing. And am I ok to run it if plugged in to start?
Smoky cold starts are typical 7.3 behavior. If it clears up after a few minutes you might be ok. Also you might invest in a new Motorcraft cam position sensor. Just for fun. And replace your air filter, also just for fun.
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