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Comfortable towing limits

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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 07:48 AM
  #16  
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Remember the old saying: "It's not the 0-60 you need to be concerned with, but the 95-55 is what really counts."
The brakes are what you will fall short on if you have to stop in a hurry. I was pulling a 12.5k 5th wheel with an F-250 and warped the front rotors first trip out when I had to do an emergency stop on a long down hill run due to a traffic altercation that happened in the road ahead of us and everyone threw out the anchor, so to speak. Brakes went from nice and smooth to a hideous vibration on every use until I got back home and replaced the front brakes.
I know you can get away with pulling a big load with an underrated truck, but you never know what lies in the path before you and I felt like I bought a lottery ticket when I found my 550.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 07:56 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 3pgnebs
What all is done to your truck?
besides the 4.10 gearing, only other non stock item is a wicked wheel 1st generation
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 08:01 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Dan V
If the 15k load is a GN type of trailer, then you can look at 20-25% of the trailer weight on the hitch. So at 15k and using 25% you be just shy of 4k on the pin....that 2k per tire over and above the weight of the truck itself on the rear. I made a trip one time at 22k....same truck. It's an odd feeling that when the road curves left, that you have to steer right a little.....think about that.
If you have that much tongue weight from a trailer, you are not getting it loaded correctly. As a general rule you should have 12%-15% plus or minus, but no less than 9%...and 25% is way too much!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 08:01 AM
  #19  
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Couple times a year on shorter trips like that....maybe. That's getting pretty heavy for a SRW 250. 10k and under no problem. Occasionally I'd get a big 5th wheel I'd have to move in the 12.5-13.5k range and it would be a little bit of a handful. On the highway especially the 3.73 rear gearing is a little tall for overdrive. 70-75 mph it wont like either. 62-65 is where mine likes to be towing anything substantial. a 4.10 rear DRW with a trans cooler upgrade would be a better idea for 15k.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 08:01 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Remember the old saying: "It's not the 0-60 you need to be concerned with, but the 95-55 is what really counts."
The brakes are what you will fall short on if you have to stop in a hurry. I was pulling a 12.5k 5th wheel with an F-250 and warped the front rotors first trip out when I had to do an emergency stop on a long down hill run due to a traffic altercation that happened in the road ahead of us and everyone threw out the anchor, so to speak. Brakes went from nice and smooth to a hideous vibration on every use until I got back home and replaced the front brakes.
I know you can get away with pulling a big load with an underrated truck, but you never know what lies in the path before you and I felt like I bought a lottery ticket when I found my 550.
yup...with my working trailer brakes on this latest tow, I had a semi with trailer, for no dann reason just came left in my lane, just before Kingman AZ...slamned on my brakes and it did nothing. Good thing I had the room to my left to make the lane change....
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 08:13 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by GregA
From direct experience...all bumper pull with an Excursion (basically, a soft F-250)...

5k, no worries. Pulls fine.

10k 28' enclosed car trailer or 10k 32' travel trailer...I do that. You'll want a weight-disty hitch and maybe some truck mods (I have Roadmaster and Airlift). My best mod to date was 2017 F-250 take-off 20" wheels and Michelin LTX tires.

15k 38' enclosed auto trailer...I've done it, longest was from NJ to TX and back, but it's not something I'm particularly comfy with, especially in the rain. Me and the team agreed that I'm better off pulling the 32' 10k travel trailer and letting the guy with the new Chevy 1-ton pull the dual-car trailer. I can do it in a pinch if we have probs with the Chevy, but...

If I had a dually with modern ABS then pulling a tag 15k tag would be OK. But if that were to be a common thing I'd prefer a dually with a 5th wheel.
You probably have the trailer setup correctly, unlike what I'm reading elsewhere in this thread. The trailer should have the correct tongue weight, adequate braking system to stop such that it's not relying on the tow vehicle, etc. This makes it doable, but also can be a white knuckle experience as put in certain circumstances...
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 08:16 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bwguardian
If you have that much tongue weight from a trailer, you are not getting it loaded correctly. As a general rule you should have 12%-15% plus or minus, but no less than 9%...and 25% is way too much!
Uh, not quite. For a "bumper" pull yes. 9-15%

A 5th wheel or gooseneck, no. 20-25% on the kingpin for them.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 08:23 AM
  #23  
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IMO it will do the job without too much issue. Since you are only 3,000lb over rated weight.

Minus regearing it ($$$) this is what I would do.

Stock sized tires (load E)
Rear Airbags with spring clamps.
Transmission cooler upgrade
P3 brake controller
Go through every fluid and possible boost leak etc.
Go through the brakes and get good pads
Plenum inserts and T-bolt clamps on the spider
Billet compressor wheel to stop surge
Maybe a Hydra (stock might be better)
A couple gauges

Hold it to the floor an watch your temps.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 08:25 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by bwguardian
You probably have the trailer setup correctly, unlike what I'm reading elsewhere in this thread. The trailer should have the correct tongue weight, adequate braking system to stop such that it's not relying on the tow vehicle, etc. This makes it doable, but also can be a white knuckle experience as put in certain circumstances...
Oh, absolutely. We have taken the rig across the truck scales to know where we are, and we load the trailer to maintain proper balance (everything has its specific place). We also regularly use one of those Sherline scales to verify tongue load is as expected.

The really cool thing is the brakes on the 38-footer. It's a tri-axle and the braking while pulling that 15k trailer is actually better than when pulling the 10k 2-axle trailer. Sometimes I think it brakes better than the Excursion by itself...!

And the trip down to TX that one time, using the OE 16" wheels and "I don't remember what" tires, it was TRULY white knuckle. As in, swaying even when getting passed by a Ford Ranger white knuckle. I bought those 20" take-offs off Craiglist as we were passing through Louisiana (needed some spacers/adpaters to make them fit) and it totally transformed the experience

Regardless, I surived but it's not something I prefer to do on a regular basis. My personal limit, except in a rare pinch, is the 10k trailer.




 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 08:26 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Wes444
Uh, not quite. For a "bumper" pull yes. 9-15%

A 5th wheel or gooseneck, no. 20-25% on the kingpin for them.
I would not load heavy equipment on a gooseneck trailer to put that much tongue weight on the tow vehicle, and I've made some heavy hauls. I have had no choice and had to do it, but that was a handful...it's much easier on everything to have things working in conjunction with each other.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 09:22 AM
  #26  
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I have a late 99 f350 srw cclb 4x4 that is bone stock and I can say without a doubt that I would not be comfortable towing what you are saying at 70+ mph. I would however be comfortable at 55mph. At a total distance of 1200 miles a year you are only adding 4.5 hours to your total driving time. I know 55 on an interstate is not really feasible though, so with that in mind I would urge you to rethink your options. The people here who brought up the topic of insurance are also very correct in their statements. If my truck was a dually I would say I would be more comfortable at the speed you desire but at that point the truck will not be "happy" but it will do it with your foot to the floor the entire time. To maintain 70mph at 23000 pounds gross in hills with a stock setup will absolutely cook a stock transmission setup and reduce engine life due to the max rpms you will be running every time you pull a hill. Along with that when your trip is over you will need a set of brakes if you have to stop going downhill in a hurry, if you can stop in time to begin with.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 10:26 PM
  #27  
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Stock, swb zf6 here.... not sure what your load is. But i have to add a check to the braking limits. I did a load today... about 7k in pipe, 4k trailer, plus my 9200 lbs, counting passengers and stuff. So right there on 20k... i ran 75 down interstate, and only 4 hills broke cruise. HOWEVER..... i had two times today where i could not shut it down fast enough, and had to drive out of the problems. Three weeks ago i did the same weight, but a tractor, so much higher wind load... i couldnt get over 65 to save my life. Most of that trip was about 59mph, and i (sort of on purpose) overheated, pushing to hard on a really hilly area. Personally, of your buying a truck, just to tow, and your normal load is that heavy.... you need duals, and 350 is still borderline light.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2022 | 05:38 AM
  #28  
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I have a couple of trailers, a 36ft 5th wheel we use for our travels that grosses out at 12k & a 39ft toy hauler that I use for work that's 15k loaded, I used to tow with my F350 dually but the toy hauler loaded was well over the design weight of the truck (I never actually towed it fully loaded) & even part loaded I had to keep an eye on EGT's & mostly keep OD locked out.
I bought an F550 Fontaine Classic Traveler for this reason and the difference between the two when towing is night and day, 4.88 gears & bigger brakes along with self levelling rear suspension means CC for most of the journey & EGT's rarely get above 1200.
I wouldn't even contemplate a 15k trailer with a SRW truck.
 
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