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e40d slight bump when decelerating to stop

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Old Jan 20, 2022 | 02:05 PM
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Unhappy e40d slight bump when decelerating to stop

hello,took e40d e350 to drive test and when you come to almost complete stop at stop sign it would randomly "bump" whole car ,feels like someone rearended you a bit. what it could be ? it did randomly during 2 mile test ,shifts good both reverse and back.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2022 | 02:20 PM
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It's probably the slip yoke binding where the driveshaft enters the back of the transmission. Take the driveshaft out and lube it. Ford sells a special grease just for this.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2022 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
It's probably the slip yoke binding where the driveshaft enters the back of the transmission. Take the driveshaft out and lube it. Ford sells a special grease just for this.
i mentioned in previous posts that during install tailshaft housing wasnt centered and when i loosened it up and tried to see whats the culprit i found out that housing itself wouldnt lay flat on transmission so i slid driveshaft before tightening bolts,i think thats main reason and not sure how i bent it in first place.maybe during install i used jack to lift trans right by the output hole of housing. probably have to buy new one.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2022 | 05:29 PM
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will get back after grease it tomorrow
 
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Old Jan 20, 2022 | 11:19 PM
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I am just curious. Are you saying that when you tired to insert the driveshaft into the tail shaft,, the output shaft was not centered in the tail shaft or tail shaft seal? So you loosened the bolts holding the tail shaft housing so that it would line up enough to insert the yoke on the driveshaft?

-
If so then it the alignment was just a little off, that might be normal. Maybe Mark can answer that for us... In my limited experience there is usually a little play in the output shaft when the driveshaft out. Once the driveshaft yoke is inserted onto the output shaft and into the tail shaft, there is a bushing in the tail shaft housing that will hold everything in place and help support the output shaft.
I guess it cold be possible to bend a tail shaft housing but they are cast aluminum I believe and seems like it would break before it would bend very much.
Again Mark knows much better then I do.

Here is a video that may show normal to excessive play. But with the driveshaft out, it could possibly appear not to line up.

 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by annaleigh
I am just curious. Are you saying that when you tired to insert the driveshaft into the tail shaft,, the output shaft was not centered in the tail shaft or tail shaft seal? So you loosened the bolts holding the tail shaft housing so that it would line up enough to insert the yoke on the driveshaft?

-
If so then it the alignment was just a little off, that might be normal. Maybe Mark can answer that for us... In my limited experience there is usually a little play in the output shaft when the driveshaft out. Once the driveshaft yoke is inserted onto the output shaft and into the tail shaft, there is a bushing in the tail shaft housing that will hold everything in place and help support the output shaft.
I guess it cold be possible to bend a tail shaft housing but they are cast aluminum I believe and seems like it would break before it would bend very much.
Again Mark knows much better then I do.

Here is a video that may show normal to excessive play. But with the driveshaft out, it could possibly appear not to line up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enpK148EH5s
yours look like over the board.mine barely budge when pushed with screwdriver.i will figure it out tomorrow.couldnt find teflon grease,everyone has only marine lithium grease.ill try it.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by annaleigh
I am just curious. Are you saying that when you tired to insert the driveshaft into the tail shaft,, the output shaft was not centered in the tail shaft or tail shaft seal? So you loosened the bolts holding the tail shaft housing so that it would line up enough to insert the yoke on the driveshaft?

-
If so then it the alignment was just a little off, that might be normal. Maybe Mark can answer that for us... In my limited experience there is usually a little play in the output shaft when the driveshaft out. Once the driveshaft yoke is inserted onto the output shaft and into the tail shaft, there is a bushing in the tail shaft housing that will hold everything in place and help support the output shaft.
I guess it cold be possible to bend a tail shaft housing but they are cast aluminum I believe and seems like it would break before it would bend very much.
Again Mark knows much better then I do.

Here is a video that may show normal to excessive play. But with the driveshaft out, it could possibly appear not to line up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enpK148EH5s
LUbed up ,seems to smoothed out bumps ,there were few minor ones but since pan leaked bunch of fluid it slowing down to stop sign but not full stop would revv engine and won't move forward,so basically rpms goes up and I'm static can't proceed unless let gas go and press again,then slamming gearWill Google a bit
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 11:50 AM
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STOP driving it and fill it back with fluid or you will damage the transmission with it low on fluid.

TIP next time you drop the drive shaft, try to have the rear of the van higher then the front and you will not loose much fluid out the tail shaft.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Asus Versuta
LUbed up ,seems to smoothed out bumps ,there were few minor ones but since pan leaked bunch of fluid it slowing down to stop sign but not full stop would revv engine and won't move forward,so basically rpms goes up and I'm static can't proceed unless let gas go and press again,then slamming gearWill Google a bit
That is one of the best ways to destroy a transmission. Fill it before driving it again.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
That is one of the best ways to destroy a transmission. Fill it before driving it again.
Yeah,I'm fighting leaking pan and stripped threads 😂
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 12:35 PM
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as to stripped pan bolts... They are probably stripped out in the aluminum housing. What I did on a couple of my transmission bolts was to go to the hardware store and buy the next size larger bolt and re-thread the hole in the housing. Depending on the diameter of the bolt, a metric or standard size might be in between. In my case the bolt head was too large because of the lip on the oil pan so I used a cap screw with an allen wrench.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by annaleigh
as to stripped pan bolts... They are probably stripped out in the aluminum housing. What I did on a couple of my transmission bolts was to go to the hardware store and buy the next size larger bolt and re-thread the hole in the housing. Depending on the diameter of the bolt, a metric or standard size might be in between. In my case the bolt head was too large because of the lip on the oil pan so I used a cap screw with an allen wrench.
yep,i wasnt sure what size to go and first time pan got down installed m10 1.5 cap screws,theyre so huge,had to drill out pan xD .
now i read about tap/size and got 3/8 tap which was very easy to tap in on existing hole without enlarging it.

i havent googled yet.is it safe to run thick bead of permatex blue gasket maker ? i already did once and it leaked on 3 spots because not enough smeared in those spots.i think i go full ham.
i dont have cork gasket.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 03:23 PM
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Mark Kovalsky is the one to ask a about the sealant.
Its my understanding that if you use the rubber Fel-Pro gaskets, that you do not use any sealant. Their holes where the bolts go through are tight and when you put the bolts through the pan and rubber gasket, it holds the gasket in place.. You would need to enlarge the holes on the gasket for any of the bolts you tapped out to larger bolts. Also if your transmission pan has been over tightened while trying to stop leaks, you might have warped the pan or caused little dimples in the pan at each bolt hole. If there are dimples at the bolt holes from over tightening, you must straighten them out before reinstalling with a new gasket or you will have leaks. So the pan must be perfectly flat or it wont seal correctly.. Buy a new one if you think you have a problem with the old one... And don't over tighten the bolts!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by annaleigh
Mark Kovalsky is the one to ask a about the sealant.
Its my understanding that if you use the rubber Fel-Pro gaskets, that you do not use any sealant. Their holes where the bolts go through are tight and when you put the bolts through the pan and rubber gasket, it holds the gasket in place.. You would need to enlarge the holes on the gasket for any of the bolts you tapped out to larger bolts. Also if your transmission pan has been over tightened while trying to stop leaks, you might have warped the pan or caused little dimples in the pan at each bolt hole. If there are dimples at the bolt holes from over tightening, you must straighten them out before reinstalling with a new gasket or you will have leaks. So the pan must be perfectly flat or it wont seal correctly.. Buy a new one if you think you have a problem with the old one... And don't over tighten the bolts!
last try with old pan,it has those ridges by the holes,i think it wont work this time either and will buy new pan )))
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 05:14 PM
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Seems like problem didn't go away with revving and not shifting,no power in first gear to second ,what possibly could be ? Refilled with 9qt or so
Ps.
It starts good and 5-10mph goes good ,only when revving up
 
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