is it possible that napa speed sensor is bad out the box ?

 

btw ,no leaks , permatex great stuff 90 min silicone is dopey

 

If you get ANY of that sealant inside the transmission it can stick valves and cause the trans to fail.

 

I made it kinda precise ,hope none goes inside

 

It took 9 quarts to fill it up after you test drove it or after you replaced the pan? I don't know if the van would even move being 9qts low! If it did then refer to post #8 and #9!

Your original post said your only problem was the bump when decelerating and that it shifted fine? It's not uncommon for aftermarket parts to be bad out of the box..

As to what it could be? I have pulled and installed several transmissions, changed front and rear seals, tail shaft bushings, a governor, and adjusted the TV pressure on a AOD but never rebuilt one. So while I can help with some things, I can't even hold a candle to Mark's experience!

 

i refilled with 2 galllons with full torque converter and filter intact.assuming i have 15-16qt. yes ,it was shifting good before dropping pan for 2nd time ,it started leaking and i drove it as dipstick showed okay level,then when on the way back home it started showing those issues,round trip was 3 miles. now after sealing pan for 3rd time its even worse. as i described i did 10mph till main road and coulndt pick up speed once on the road,it was revving up and slowing down,felt like nothing applies, then i made it back home and issue kinda went away for a bit,i was able maintain 15 mph for 400' till my street.
not sure what to do with this.
in rebuild i replaced very few seals ,rear piston as it was open and other exposed seals,i couldnt take apart forward gear or other gears that were inside drums as i didnt have drum press or anything fancy.
all clutches were replaced,
sonnax snap ring was installed, forward pump was opened and checked valves dont stick and gears in nice condition.
sprags,planetary sets,drums,center support,overdrive band were left original.
i put it back same way as i took it apart watching youtube guides.
the only non-original part is speed sensor in tailhousing.
ive ordered bafx obd sensor which i had in past and left it in storage. will read codes and probably go from there.unless someone can extract anything from bunch of thoughts i just wrote ))

 

That is the time to shut it off and tow it. This abuse can destroy a clutch in about 5 seconds.

Did you replace the clutches that are inside the drums?

That is very interesting since the E4OD does not have an overdrive band. It has an overdrive clutch. It does have an intermediate band, and that is the only band in an E4OD.

Get the codes, there is probably a good clue there.

 

Yes all clutches replaced. Also, yes that big band that uses servo piston that I mentioned doesn't retract after pressing on it,not sure there is difference between them,spring was good ,seal was soft.i asked this in other thread and left unanswered

 

scanned with torque pro ,scan gauge pro - no codes stored . what possibly could be culprit ,sticking valve? ive ran thru all valves in pump,vb,accumulator ,only 2-3 in accumulator was sticking ,rest were nice and crisp. also what stuck servo piston responsible for ?

 

I still don't understand. If you couldn't open the drums, how did you replace the clutches?

That band is only applied when the shift lever is in the 2 position.

 

it was easy to remove snap rings and replace clutches,kinda straightforward but seals not so much as i couldnt take apart some parts of drums without tools .
i used this pack and it had exact number of clutches i took out from trans
https://www.raybestospowertrain.com/...acks/rcp96-091.
i started and drove it yesterday in druiveway ,it went nice back and forth but havent tried to go outside.
next thing im waiting for original vss dy-588 motorcraft and new pan without humps also probably tps

 

one more question Mark,does chassis box battery ground that attached to frame responsible for anything ? mine came off due to rust ,not sure if it means anything to shifting.

 

All grounds are important. I don't know specifically what will happen if that ground is gone. It just might disconnect that battery from the circuit.

 

Did quick drive test again ,so basically first two stop signs it was rough running ,kinda felt power went down for a brief moment and didn't wanted to shift to second gear despite revving pretty high ,I'd say 2-3k rpm,but on third stop sign it finally started going in 2nd gear and smooth running. It also gave p0606 code for pcm

 

Okay,another drive test,first 10 stop signs it went smooth as nothing ever happened shifting to 2nd,3rd as when it was good on the way back it tried to revv again without shifting to second and rough running and came back again kinda shifting semi good and bit rough running with slight revv to shift .reverse is instant,shifts very crisp when they shift.