Fuel line size question
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 416
Likes: 44
From: Edmonton
Fuel line size question
I'm working on rebuilding the carb for my 82 F-150 and when removing it in -30 the other day I kinked the line going in at the fuel filter so I'm going to replace the whole thing. I have the vehicle stored at a friends place so I can't easily go look at the sizing so I was wondering if anyone knows off hand the length and dimensions for that line. I'll get some stainless and bend it into proper shape but it would be handy to know so I can run and buy it without having to go measure it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 237
From: NE Ohio
props to you on working outside in -30 temps.
I need to do a brake job on my car and I keep putting it off because of temps/weather.
Going have to suck it up and do it this weekend I think. Gas mpg in the truck sucks too bad to keep using as DD as much as I'd love to.
I need to do a brake job on my car and I keep putting it off because of temps/weather.
Going have to suck it up and do it this weekend I think. Gas mpg in the truck sucks too bad to keep using as DD as much as I'd love to.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 416
Likes: 44
From: Edmonton
Yeah it was a rush job just so we could work on the carb inside. The guy I bought it off had a local high school rebuild it and they appear to have done it wrong. I think I got a deal on the truck because he was frustrated and wanted it gone, which I'm not going to complain about.
My friend replaced a crankcase seal yesterday in my driveway on his Saturn and it was -22. Luckily he had my heated garage to warm up in but that was hard core in my opinion.
I don't foresee this truck being my daily driver as my Escape is far nicer but I'm looking forward to getting it up and running.
My friend replaced a crankcase seal yesterday in my driveway on his Saturn and it was -22. Luckily he had my heated garage to warm up in but that was hard core in my opinion.
I don't foresee this truck being my daily driver as my Escape is far nicer but I'm looking forward to getting it up and running.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,880
Likes: 4,117
From: Angier, NC
A word to the wise you will not be able to bend SS line with out a vary hard time and as for flaring unless you have the tool to flare SS don't even try.
Get the copper nickel line, easy to bend by hand and a cheap flaring tool will work too.
Dave ----
Get the copper nickel line, easy to bend by hand and a cheap flaring tool will work too.
Dave ----
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 416
Likes: 44
From: Edmonton
That's a good point, I do have the tools but there isn't really a good argument for using such a tough material. Plus I already have some copper tubing left over from my forge build so why not use it.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 319
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From: Houston
I had to replace my line for my 4.9L and I bought a 30” line and that was almost perfect. If you want to know how long the line was, grab a piece of string, a marker and some masking tape. The string will need to be longer than the line so make sure you have plenty. I like to use kite line, I tape the end of the string onto one end of the line. Tape the string right before and after every bend radius. Once you get to the end tape the string to the very end, then mark your string directly after the last piece of tape.
Remove all the tape and measure the length of the string and done. This isn’t a high pressure line so it doesn’t need to be double flared, you can get a cheap single flare tool on Amazon for about $20. Then when you buy your new line at the parts store rent their line bend kit and get the project completed.
And to think I’m putting off working on my truck when it’s 35 out… We struggle in Texas under 50 lol
Remove all the tape and measure the length of the string and done. This isn’t a high pressure line so it doesn’t need to be double flared, you can get a cheap single flare tool on Amazon for about $20. Then when you buy your new line at the parts store rent their line bend kit and get the project completed.
And to think I’m putting off working on my truck when it’s 35 out… We struggle in Texas under 50 lol
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 237
From: NE Ohio
If I was to replace the entire line I'd probably go with the way Ford did it, Nylon.The hardest part would be getting the fittings into the tube and
a modified caulk gun appears to take care of that issue. Maybe a pot of hot water also.
Slightly more than a roll of ni-cop but there is no bending and from the looks of mine, it will last longer than the truck.
a modified caulk gun appears to take care of that issue. Maybe a pot of hot water also.
Slightly more than a roll of ni-cop but there is no bending and from the looks of mine, it will last longer than the truck.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,880
Likes: 4,117
From: Angier, NC
I had to replace my line for my 4.9L and I bought a 30” line and that was almost perfect. If you want to know how long the line was, grab a piece of string, a marker and some masking tape. The string will need to be longer than the line so make sure you have plenty. I like to use kite line, I tape the end of the string onto one end of the line. Tape the string right before and after every bend radius. Once you get to the end tape the string to the very end, then mark your string directly after the last piece of tape.
Remove all the tape and measure the length of the string and done. This isn’t a high pressure line so it doesn’t need to be double flared, you can get a cheap single flare tool on Amazon for about $20. Then when you buy your new line at the parts store rent their line bend kit and get the project completed.
And to think I’m putting off working on my truck when it’s 35 out… We struggle in Texas under 50 lol
Remove all the tape and measure the length of the string and done. This isn’t a high pressure line so it doesn’t need to be double flared, you can get a cheap single flare tool on Amazon for about $20. Then when you buy your new line at the parts store rent their line bend kit and get the project completed.
And to think I’m putting off working on my truck when it’s 35 out… We struggle in Texas under 50 lol
If I was to replace the entire line I'd probably go with the way Ford did it, Nylon.The hardest part would be getting the fittings into the tube and
a modified caulk gun appears to take care of that issue. Maybe a pot of hot water also.
Slightly more than a roll of ni-cop but there is no bending and from the looks of mine, it will last longer than the truck.
a modified caulk gun appears to take care of that issue. Maybe a pot of hot water also.
Slightly more than a roll of ni-cop but there is no bending and from the looks of mine, it will last longer than the truck.
IF the truck had plastic line then yes I would replace it with the same thing.
Dave ----
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 237
From: NE Ohio
He is working on the line after the pump so it is under some PSI just not high like on a EFI car / truck.
It is the fuel line from pump to carb not the line(s) from tank(s) to motor so no need for a coil of tubing.
IF the truck had plastic line then yes I would replace it with the same thing.
Dave ----
It is the fuel line from pump to carb not the line(s) from tank(s) to motor so no need for a coil of tubing.
IF the truck had plastic line then yes I would replace it with the same thing.
Dave ----
No where did I say replace the metal line from the pump to the carb with nylon.. It helps to read the entire thread and not take one post out of context.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,880
Likes: 4,117
From: Angier, NC
As for reading because I did not know who you were talking to and the talk of plastic line I thought you were talking of the OP question.
Sorry
Dave ----
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,880
Likes: 4,117
From: Angier, NC
An gallon jug sits nice up on the inner fender, long rubber hose from jug to fuel pump on motor and you are good to go.
Dave ----
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 416
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From: Edmonton
We got in and checked things out, the tank was basically empty so we put a couple jerry cans worth in it and the fuel is flowing. It's a bit of a hack at the moment to get it running and confirm it works but so far so good.
Annoyingly we can see fuel flowing and if we pour a bit directly in it will try to fire but otherwise it just spins and doesn't fire. The previous owner replaced the plugs, wires, and distributor cap so in theory it should be good. Need to fiddle around with that and the carb to see if we can figure out where the problem is.
Annoyingly we can see fuel flowing and if we pour a bit directly in it will try to fire but otherwise it just spins and doesn't fire. The previous owner replaced the plugs, wires, and distributor cap so in theory it should be good. Need to fiddle around with that and the carb to see if we can figure out where the problem is.
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