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However, the CTEK MUS-25000, a Snowflake (cold weather) programmed automatic "8 stage" Smart Charger rated at 25 amps is listed as an Approved charger on Odyssey's list linked above.
Since there are so few chargers on Odyssey's approved list, I wanted to make sure that it was understood for future readers that the "CTEK charger not being good enough" isn't a matter of the CTEK brand or charging profile.
It is a matter of selecting the correct CTEK charger model for the amp hour rating of the batteries being charged.
The CTEK MUS-25000 that Odyssey approves is a significantly larger charger, with a built in fan inside, and a bit more heft in circuity than the MUS 4.3.
For size reference, I've attached a photo of my MUS-25000 below:
The charger is not plugged in at the time this photo was taken. (No LED lamps on charger are illuminated). The DVOM reading is of the battery voltage at rest.
It would have been nice if CTEK had called out that the MUS 4.3 wasn't acceptable. Then again, if I had dug further I would have found Odyssey's approved list. CTEK's statement that it works for AGM seemed good enough at the time. Lack of due diligence on my part for sure.
I do have an Odyssey charger and I've used it to recondition my two Odyssey PC925 batteries. Hopefully the use of the incorrect charger over the last eight years hasn't killed the 925's. I probably need to run another reconditioning process, but I'll be using the Odyssey charger in the future instead of the CTEK.
Well, if you feel you would ever need to charge them then I guess you might Dave. I can't remember the last on road vehicle I've had to actually charge though. I've had play cars that needed to be maintained during the off season but maintaining size requirements and charging size requirements are different animals.
Well, if you feel you would ever need to charge them then I guess you might Dave. I can't remember the last on road vehicle I've had to actually charge though. I've had play cars that needed to be maintained during the off season but maintaining size requirements and charging size requirements are different animals.
I am new to AGMs and don't know much about them. So for use on a daily driver, you're saying I don't need to worry then (when I get them)?
I have yellow top Optimas. I put them in about 4-5 years ago. They were OK for a good while, but are showing signs of getting pretty tired now.
I did research batteries some before I got the Optimas. There may be a thread here that I had back then on the subject. What I learned was they sent their manufacturing to Mexico, I believe, and since that time the quality seemed to go down the tube. I ended up going with the Optimas anyway because I needed batteries - I was to where the truck needed jumped about every start.
If there are quality options out there for batteries that others suggest I would steer you that direction - and away from Optimas. I was hoping to get a good 10 years out of these but seeing they are getting tired now looks like I may be able to stretch them to 1/2 that.
I can't see how you would. Your truck will keep them charged so in what instance would discharge enough to need charging by other means?
Okay I got it Rod thanks. I'm a newbie to these.
Originally Posted by KC8QVO
I have yellow top Optimas. I put them in about 4-5 years ago. They were OK for a good while, but are showing signs of getting pretty tired now.
I did research batteries some before I got the Optimas. There may be a thread here that I had back then on the subject. What I learned was they sent their manufacturing to Mexico, I believe, and since that time the quality seemed to go down the tube. I ended up going with the Optimas anyway because I needed batteries - I was to where the truck needed jumped about every start.
If there are quality options out there for batteries that others suggest I would steer you that direction - and away from Optimas. I was hoping to get a good 10 years out of these but seeing they are getting tired now looks like I may be able to stretch them to 1/2 that.
Good luck!
Appreciate the input. I'd buy Interstates because my buddy is a Interstate dealer.
I can't see how you would. Your truck will keep them charged so in what instance would discharge enough to need charging by other means?
Okay I got it Rod thanks. I'm a newbie to these.
Because I've done it -
If you have other electronics you run in your truck and leave them on you can drain the batteries in a couple days.
I left a ham radio on (not sure if I left it on or if I hit the power button putting it away and turned it back on) one time for about 3-4 days. It drained the batteries. I have a couple chargers. One of them has a 100 or so amp "start mode". I tried that but the diesel takes too many amps to start so I let the charger run on its highest charge range for a while and it started.
Being winter time I keep a small electric heater in the truck pointed at the window. I have a cord going out there. Before I fire up the truck I let the heater run for an hr or so, depending on the day and the weather, to defrost/clear ice on the windows. There is a small charger in the truck also to peak the batteries.
I am tempted to switch the cord going out there with a 4 conductor. That way I can put the heater on a separate hot and keep the charger running all the time, not just at the same time as the heater.
For what it is worth, for running on schedules there are programmable timers you can get. I've run a couple variations - the hard-wired kind and the plug-in kind. Right now I am running a plug-in. It lets me set up scheduled on/off times for various day options. I think I can put in 6-8 different on/off schedules.
Oh, I'm not saying it's impossible to run down batteries Steve. I'm just saying I've never personally done it on an everyday vehicle. I guess if that super rare event did ever happen to me, as much as I love spending money on fancy electronic tools and toys, I still probably wouldn't own a special charger for this though. Speaking of charging profiles... Our trucks BCM does have an AGM charging profile that can be switched to with Forscan. I'm not sure if anyone has done it? I think about it every once in a while... then I forget about it again...
The problem with the Motorcraft batteries is they are not a truly maintenance free battery. I finally switched to a maintenance free lead acid battery and my battery tops are completely dry.
I've never had a problem with my Motorcrafts because I get my truck oiled every year at Carwell. They spray under the hood as well and the batteries. I also coat my posts and connectors with an oil based product. Not the cleanest but I've had no corrosion issues at all and no problems with corroded battery brackets at all.
I just asked my buddy whose shop stocks Interstates about AGMs he replied that he really sees no extended life out of them but to me, maybe the advantage is no corrosion issues. He said his going to talk the battery guy and see what he says.
Yesterday morning it was 5 deg out and the truck cranked slow at first but did start. So before I went home from work, I went to Advance so they could test the batteries. They disconnected the positive connector on the driver's side battery and tested the passenger side. Voltage was good but cranking amps read 505 amps. Definitely not 750 amps. They wanted to test the driver's side but I said no. It didn't matter because if one is bad, I'm replacing both, not just one.
Last night I plugged in the block heater. Truck cranked over real nice. But it was 21 deg. So for now, I'll just keep plugging her in to make it easier for the batteries.
Dave, my thought would be, don't wait til there's an issue. Just get a pair of new ones now and get it over with. Not only do you not want to be stranded but with all the shortages going on, you might not be able to find what you want when the time does come.
