master/slave for clutch
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5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2022
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master/slave for clutch
Hello all I have a 94 f350 5 speed with the 7.3 idi. I have replaced the master and slave for the clutch at least five times now in the last ten years and getting tired of the same old plastic junk. I installed the current master and slave set up back in june and i am at the point where I have to start it in gear to get rolling. Time for a new master and slave. Has anyone come up with a better solution for this frustrating problem, like maybe a master and slave from a heavier truck, or a brand that is better quality?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,739
Likes: 181
From: Western Mass
You probably have air in the line, these are notoriously hard to bleed, but have you tried to get the air out? I find it hard to believe you've gone through that many master and slaves...
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5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2022
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as im sure you know its a sealed system and the resivoir on the master has never dropped in level in any of the failed units. its a heavy duty clutch and it seems to me that the fluid is just bypassing the seals in the master and not putting up enough pressure in the slave to opperate the clutch properly.
I see some people are having good luck with LUK so Ill see if I can get my hands on one of those up here in canada.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,739
Likes: 181
From: Western Mass
thanks for you reply.
as im sure you know its a sealed system and the resivoir on the master has never dropped in level in any of the failed units. its a heavy duty clutch and it seems to me that the fluid is just bypassing the seals in the master and not putting up enough pressure in the slave to opperate the clutch properly.
I see some people are having good luck with LUK so Ill see if I can get my hands on one of those up here in canada.
as im sure you know its a sealed system and the resivoir on the master has never dropped in level in any of the failed units. its a heavy duty clutch and it seems to me that the fluid is just bypassing the seals in the master and not putting up enough pressure in the slave to opperate the clutch properly.
I see some people are having good luck with LUK so Ill see if I can get my hands on one of those up here in canada.
Just because the level hasn't dropped, it doesn't mean the fluid hasn't degraded or air somehow has gotten in.
Have you inspected the pedal linkage? there are bushing in the pedal and on the master cylinder pushrod. These are VERY common to wear down and break apart creating slop in the system. Is the firewall cracked? You mention a 94 which should be the better redesigned setup, but there is a chance something cracked.
I would also agree that Luk is good quality, I have had great luck with their clutch components. I can't remember what brand I used for the master or slave whenever I may have replaced them on my '88, can't remember if I did actually? But haven't had problems in the 10 years I've owned it. If you are having problems every 2 years, either something else is wrong, you aren't installing them correctly, or you are getting absolute crap parts.
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5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2022
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yes there is a cap on the master, parts have been doorman up until now, no way of bleeding for air (no fittings to crack open) and if the fluid has degraded in 7 months (that would verify junk parts) , fire wall is solid clutch pedal linkage and bushings are worn and have been since day one. I would like to replace the whole thing with new but I haven't been able to find, not even a bushing kit. do you know of somewhere?
I just picked up a LUK master and slave set up $339.icl tax canadian$, so will see how it lasts. typically i install a new one and they work great for a few months and then they slowly creep into failure as the fluid starts to bypass the seals in the master (leaning heavily towards your comment) " absolute crap parts".
installation is about as simple as it gets on this truck 30 min job. just getting tired of forking out $ for this constantly. I work with this truck every day and when its not working its costing me time and money.
thanks for your input and I'm all ears if you have an idea where i can find new linkage or a bushing kit.
i love this truck but from the reading i have been doing about other peoples similar experience, this seems to be its achilles heel.
I just picked up a LUK master and slave set up $339.icl tax canadian$, so will see how it lasts. typically i install a new one and they work great for a few months and then they slowly creep into failure as the fluid starts to bypass the seals in the master (leaning heavily towards your comment) " absolute crap parts".
installation is about as simple as it gets on this truck 30 min job. just getting tired of forking out $ for this constantly. I work with this truck every day and when its not working its costing me time and money.
thanks for your input and I'm all ears if you have an idea where i can find new linkage or a bushing kit.
i love this truck but from the reading i have been doing about other peoples similar experience, this seems to be its achilles heel.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 224
From: Nevada
There is a little set screw at the rear of the Slave Cylinder that can be used for the bleeder.
As I remember doing mine a few years ago, I removed the supply tube to the Slave.
Then cut a water drink bottle in 1/2, and fill it about a third with Brake Fluid. Stick
the rear of the Slave on the bottle and push on the Rod to purge out the air. Will have to
do this several times till the air is out. Wipe it off and attach the supply tube.
While it is off and you are purging the air, let the tube gravity bleed and make sure the MC
is kept full.
This seemed to work for me, but getting the Slave back on the Bell Housing is a pain w/o
the plastic strap.
Here is a good YT Vid on how to get it together.
I haven`t had any problems with the parts being crappy and falling apart.
There is also the problem of the Fire Wall cracking and flexing. There was a fix Ford had,
but the plates are NLA, but Bronco Grave Yard still sells one.
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/83-...uctinfo/34010/
There is a repair for the bushing where the MC Push Rod and Clutch Peddle attach.
The Bushing wares out then it is metal on metal, and gets egged shape which will
create slop and you think you have a bad Clutch.
The repair is the Heim Joint fix.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-floor.html
Post #6 IDIoit explains how to remove the Rod from the MC.
You can do as he did or as this YT Vid explains it...
Charlie
As I remember doing mine a few years ago, I removed the supply tube to the Slave.
Then cut a water drink bottle in 1/2, and fill it about a third with Brake Fluid. Stick
the rear of the Slave on the bottle and push on the Rod to purge out the air. Will have to
do this several times till the air is out. Wipe it off and attach the supply tube.
While it is off and you are purging the air, let the tube gravity bleed and make sure the MC
is kept full.
This seemed to work for me, but getting the Slave back on the Bell Housing is a pain w/o
the plastic strap.
Here is a good YT Vid on how to get it together.
I haven`t had any problems with the parts being crappy and falling apart.
There is also the problem of the Fire Wall cracking and flexing. There was a fix Ford had,
but the plates are NLA, but Bronco Grave Yard still sells one.
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/83-...uctinfo/34010/
There is a repair for the bushing where the MC Push Rod and Clutch Peddle attach.
The Bushing wares out then it is metal on metal, and gets egged shape which will
create slop and you think you have a bad Clutch.
The repair is the Heim Joint fix.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-floor.html
Post #6 IDIoit explains how to remove the Rod from the MC.
You can do as he did or as this YT Vid explains it...
Charlie
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