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I’m new here but trying to get some information. I have an 2001 f350 cc duality, 4” exhaust, 6637 intake filter and presently stock turbo with a ww2 . 6 speed manual transmission.TP tuner 60,daily and 80hp tow.
I live in NH I have a problem with egt’s on Some hills. I just retired and plan on traveling through the US, rzr on the truck and a 8000 LB trailer.
I just purchased a gtp38r and was wondering if anyone is running stock injectors and your results with egt’s. I’m sure the mountains out west will make hills here small compared to them. Considering new injectors.
Any help would be appreciate.
thanks
I feel like there are better options available nowadays. I hated the 38R with 6637 filter. It literally screams at you endlessly when towing. It also liked to live at higher rpm than I typically want to run.
The KC Stage 1 63/68 has great reviews. This would be my choice for a drop in turbo with stock injectors. Either that or the KC balanced assembly in a stock turbo.
Have you tested for boost leaks and checked for exhaust drive pressure leaks? Those will rob power and elevate EGTs.
Search for boost leak detector procedures and follow the instructions on the forum....
One of the biggest causes of high EGT's are boost leaks. Just having reasonable boost numbers on a gauge does not preclude the presence of leaks. You are asking the engine to do the hard work without the air to do the job.
I second the notion of return the 38R if you can. I have no personal experience with one, but I have yet to read anything from the last 5 or 10 years that ended with a happy owner with one. At one time it was the only option, but now there are so many good options from mild to wild in the drop in turbo market.
DP tuner is infamous for higher than necessary EGT and other, more serious problems. Better tuning is strongly recommended. I am very impressed with AA tuning these days and I’ve run tunes from several people over the years.
I too hated the 38R. Especially with 6637 filter. For stock or Stage 1/1.5 injectors I would recommend the KC S300 balanced assembly as a turbo upgrade. Might as well rebuild the turbo with 360* thrust washer kit while you’re in there (it’s an easy job).
I'm running a GTP38R from years ago. 1.15 AR housing, no wastegate or EBPV. Larger than stock injectors using DP Tuner. I tried the Hydra but after getting several others who tuned it but failed to make it work, I had Jody datalog the thing and we got it done. I don't know about excessive EGT in my rig.
I too hated the 38R. Especially with 6637 filter. For stock or Stage 1/1.5 injectors I would recommend the KC S300 balanced assembly as a turbo upgrade. Might as well rebuild the turbo with 360* thrust washer kit while you’re in there (it’s an easy job).
My understanding is the balanced assembly comes with a 360° kit included. Correct me if I’m wrong here.
And sorry to the OP. I know we aren’t exactly telling you what you want to hear. But we are attempting to be truthful and help you out even though it’s not a pleasant truth.
The 38r will work with stock injectors, in fact I found it to work best with stock nozzle injectors, when I went to oversize nozzles I have more take off smoke or shift shift smoke(zf6) The 38r will keep egts down better then a stock turbo, it will not spool and operate at the same rom range though. What does this mean? Cruising down the highway at 1800-2000 rpms you will be under the turbos happy place, boost will not come on quick if say you have to floor it and pass a slow truck or avoid something, this is exaggerated with a zf6 because it wont just downshift super fast by itself. A 38r is not a “bad” turbo, but as time has progressed we have been blessed with better options, KC turbo leading the way for drop in options.
If you can keep rpms up enough(what gearing do you have?) it works fine.
As stated before me, it is a noisy ear piercing turbo, especially on long trips highway. I took one 1,000 mile trip and sold it as soon as I could. Some guys that doesn't bother, I cant stand extra noise like that.
Have you done bellowed up pipes?
boost leak checks
exhaust (pre turbo) leak checks
What intake filter are you running?
I'm running a GTP38R from years ago. 1.15 AR housing, no wastegate or EBPV. Larger than stock injectors using DP Tuner. I tried the Hydra but after getting several others who tuned it but failed to make it work, I had Jody datalog the thing and we got it done. I don't know about excessive EGT in my rig.
I am running one for about 9 years now, and am running DP tunes. I have 180/30's so not exactly stock, and I am very happy with it, although I have the first gen S&B intake so it's much more quiet than a 6637. I was running a stock turbo with original WW prior to that and a 6637 so I understand the noise issue. If you don't return the 38R (which I wouldn't), get you a quieter intake if the whistle bothers you. That being said, find your boost leaks, because you should be making more boost than 24psi with your current set-up.
My last trip out towing was in September and had a head gasket go. Had to have someone pull the motor to change head gaskets because i had work commitments. I got him new up pipes for reinstall which he told me he struggled with. Have not towed since and they leak. Now that I'm retired, I have the time to fix myself, that's why I want to change the turbo while I have it apart.
I picked up this truck from Georgia July 2020 with 51,000 miles now has 76,000 mi.
I have reach out to the supplier to see if I can return turbo but not sure what to do yet, if I keep my stock injectors, I should be ok ,I will wait and see about the 6637 filter. I have 4.10 gears and running 65 70 I'm above 2000 rpm so that works. I will have to get more info on waste gate set up. The big question is how dependable this turbo is.
The only sure thing for a different turbo is a t-4 system, expensive.
Just saw other post with running 38r,i have a resonator on my exhaust and I have no turbo whistle. I have seen where people have a problem keeping boost leak detector connected when putting air to it, any tips. I will purchase a leak detector.
My last trip out towing was in September and had a head gasket go. Had to have someone pull the motor to change head gaskets because i had work commitments. I got him new up pipes for reinstall which he told me he struggled with. Have not towed since and they leak. Now that I'm retired, I have the time to fix myself, that's why I want to change the turbo while I have it apart.
I picked up this truck from Georgia July 2020 with 51,000 miles now has 76,000 mi.
I have reach out to the supplier to see if I can return turbo but not sure what to do yet, if I keep my stock injectors, I should be ok ,I will wait and see about the 6637 filter. I have 4.10 gears and running 65 70 I'm above 2000 rpm so that works. I will have to get more info on waste gate set up. The big question is how dependable this turbo is.
The only sure thing for a different turbo is a t-4 system, expensive.
Just saw other post with running 38r,i have a resonator on my exhaust and I have no turbo whistle. I have seen where people have a problem keeping boost leak detector connected when putting air to it, any tips. I will purchase a leak detector.
If your uppipes are currently leaking then fixing that will help a bunch. We recommend installing bellowed for a long lasting seal. Cheap sets have proven to work well.
The 38r has a decent reliability reputation. Two things I have heard impacting this is
1- Dirty oil. The ball bearings do not like dirt. Keep the oil changed regularly.
2- Modified compressor wheel. It seems the ball bearing turbo does not like to be changed from factory. Many people have installed billet wheels, but the majority of issues we have seen on the forums have involved “modified” turbos. If I were to run it, I would not open it up.
The 4.10’s should help you compared to my experience with the 38r. They will keep you up in a better rpm for the turbo than my 3.73’s.
I made a boost leak detector out of a pvc pipe cap based off instructions found on this forum somewhere. KC Turbos sells a really nice one. You can see it (or get in line) here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-detector.html
Tips? Well I’ve blown my detector off… Stay out of its way. Lay an old towel across from it to absorb shock.
Lately no issues though. I roughed up the edges of the pvc and also use a good and tight T clamp.
The resonator wont help the amount of noise from the compressor side of the 38r, no hoke it is awful, and that was with a s&b intake. I couldnt even imagine a 6637 with it.
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