Problem with System charge rate low
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 95
Likes: 3
From: Balnarring Victoria Aust
Problem with System charge rate low
I get an intermittent message advising my charge rate is low and service now. The little red battery icon shows on the dash after the message flashes.2 Auto Electricians have tried to find the source of the problem and others in the forum suggest it is due to fitting 850cca lithium batteries - which I'm sure if that was the case the message would be on all the time. I ran a forscan and the OBD showed the following:
DTC's in PCM - P163C . 00 -2F
Generator B Field Terminal Circuit Low
Malfunction indicator amp is off for this DTC
Pto Status is off>
BECM B Battery Energy control module shows:
Batt_V_Inf, V
0.00
Batt_Discharge_ Inf
0
Vehicle is a MY2018 F250 Platinum Diesel
Checked the charge rate and 13.7v and both batteries fully charged - Auto Elect's said that's perfect. Lithium battery manufacturers said there isn't any problems with heat - the under bonnet temp in the F250 is bloody hot.
Anyone able to suggest what to look for in the way of malfunctions?
DTC's in PCM - P163C . 00 -2F
Generator B Field Terminal Circuit Low
Malfunction indicator amp is off for this DTC
Pto Status is off>
BECM B Battery Energy control module shows:
Batt_V_Inf, V
0.00
Batt_Discharge_ Inf
0
Vehicle is a MY2018 F250 Platinum Diesel
Checked the charge rate and 13.7v and both batteries fully charged - Auto Elect's said that's perfect. Lithium battery manufacturers said there isn't any problems with heat - the under bonnet temp in the F250 is bloody hot.
Anyone able to suggest what to look for in the way of malfunctions?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,453
Likes: 4,952
The computers in these trucks are super sensitive to voltage fluctuations.
When you changed over to the Lithium batteries, did you change anything on the battery cables?
You may have already done this, but check all ground cables, not just from the battery, very easy to get a battery/charge fault from a loose or dirty or corroded connection.
When you changed over to the Lithium batteries, did you change anything on the battery cables?
You may have already done this, but check all ground cables, not just from the battery, very easy to get a battery/charge fault from a loose or dirty or corroded connection.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 991
Likes: 367
From: Republic of Texas
Lithium Batteries require special charging profiles and voltages. I am willing to bet your truck is not set-up with the proper profile and unlikely you will be able to do so with the trucks systems.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 402
Likes: 26
From: Anywhere USA
Looking at your previous posts it would appear your problems began after you installed your Lithium batteries. As was mentioned in that previous thread and again here it sounds like Lithium batteries are a poor choice for these trucks. If I were trying to troubleshoot your system I would beg borrow or steal two good flooded cell or AGM batteries and see if the problem disappears. If you continue to have issues after that then you can focus on the charging system itself.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 598
Likes: 218
From: New Jersey
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-problem.html
A friendly suggestion that you really might want to rethink LiFePO4 batteries for your truck.
1) They won't charge in freezing conditions without breaking
2) They don't like hot conditions
3) The high starting loads are really stressful on the BMS components and my shorten they lifespan of the electronics.
4) They may disconnect suddenly if the internal BMS detects a number of issues, which can result in a very nasty voltage spike from the alternator which will fry things. (there are surge protector options for this)
5) LiFePO4 batteries are very, very particular on voltages. You can't drop them in a system designed for flooded, they will die quickly no matter what the battery companies tell you. Many of the battery assembly companies are still learning about the LiFePO4 cells and edge conditions.
6) Continual voltages in the 14's will cook them. - (lithium plating)
7) Lead is a much better and cheaper option for under the hood
If there is a particular reason you need LifePO4 batteries I would install inside the cab, use a DC-DC converter, and install the style with a built in heater. Run whatever special loads you need the lithium for from the batteries themselves. Also, use a coulomb counter since a voltage gauge doesn't really work (flat discharge curve). There are also lifespan verses charging limits (upper and lower) to think about.
For the record I have a truck camper with 300Ah LifePO4 batteries (three 100Ah 12v group 27) installed in the camper and flooded lead under my hood. They are installed inside the thermal envelope of the camper. I have a 2 gauge cable running from the truck batteries to the camper and a DC-DC charger to allow me to control the charging of the lithium batteries: "float" voltage, cell top balance voltage and time- "absorption time", and absorption voltage. I use quotes for "float" and "absorption" since they are flooded terms that aren't really accurate for lithium but are used a lot in discussing lithium charging.
-W
1) They won't charge in freezing conditions without breaking
2) They don't like hot conditions
3) The high starting loads are really stressful on the BMS components and my shorten they lifespan of the electronics.
4) They may disconnect suddenly if the internal BMS detects a number of issues, which can result in a very nasty voltage spike from the alternator which will fry things. (there are surge protector options for this)
5) LiFePO4 batteries are very, very particular on voltages. You can't drop them in a system designed for flooded, they will die quickly no matter what the battery companies tell you. Many of the battery assembly companies are still learning about the LiFePO4 cells and edge conditions.
6) Continual voltages in the 14's will cook them. - (lithium plating)
7) Lead is a much better and cheaper option for under the hood
If there is a particular reason you need LifePO4 batteries I would install inside the cab, use a DC-DC converter, and install the style with a built in heater. Run whatever special loads you need the lithium for from the batteries themselves. Also, use a coulomb counter since a voltage gauge doesn't really work (flat discharge curve). There are also lifespan verses charging limits (upper and lower) to think about.
For the record I have a truck camper with 300Ah LifePO4 batteries (three 100Ah 12v group 27) installed in the camper and flooded lead under my hood. They are installed inside the thermal envelope of the camper. I have a 2 gauge cable running from the truck batteries to the camper and a DC-DC charger to allow me to control the charging of the lithium batteries: "float" voltage, cell top balance voltage and time- "absorption time", and absorption voltage. I use quotes for "float" and "absorption" since they are flooded terms that aren't really accurate for lithium but are used a lot in discussing lithium charging.
-W
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Wyoming
One definition of insanity is doing the same thing, over and over, expecting different results. You can post your issue as many times as you won't. The majority of the answers aren't going to change. You have the wrong type of battery in your truck. Suck it up. Take them out, sell them to someone that will treat them right and use the money to buy some AGM or plain lead acid batteries.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,237
Likes: 2,179
Arod has a video about a wire that runs from PCM connector on alternator, down along engine , then up to a bus bar. this wire will corrode or melt internally leaving the insulation intact. by passing the wire fixes the problem.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,937
Likes: 1,221
From: Southern Crescent
These trucks are so picky about charging and voltages to begin with, add to that the complexity of dual batteries and alternators...when the time comes to replace the OEM batteries I will use equivalent specification Group 65 750 CCA FLA batteries. 1500 combined CCA aught to be enough for a gas truck.
Just not Motorcraft. Probably Interstate or EverStart. Good but cheap.
Not going to criticize, ya'll keep experimenting. I'll keep reading your posts.
Just not Motorcraft. Probably Interstate or EverStart. Good but cheap.
Not going to criticize, ya'll keep experimenting. I'll keep reading your posts.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 95
Likes: 3
From: Balnarring Victoria Aust
Problem with System charge rate low
Thanks to all those who sent their views, experiences, suggestions. As always there is a range of Fixes for many problems that emanate from the manufacturer and or installing equipment that doesn't work as intended. Will try all, but am leaning toward reinstalling the lead acid/gel batteries and continue on from there. Thanks a lot again - great forum - many ideas make Fords work O:-)
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