Looking for a good brand, possibly electronic that'll test a battery condition as well as the starting/charging systems with engine running.

Have shopped around looking at OTC, Midland, Actron and of course Snap On (craziness!) as well as doing a general Google search. This wouldn't be used all that often but price alone won't be the determining factor.

So let's hear what you've got, what you've used or what you'd recommend---help me spend some money!

 

this is what i use:

 

I have a Solar BA-7:


The BA-5 is cheaper, but is only a batter tester:
The BA-7 does the charging system, this one won't.

The BA-7 was the first I used (borrowed a friends), so I stuck with it. You can get an analog one like Tom posted in the auto department of any Wal Mart. They're simple and reliable.

 

I've read something by a tech who would check the battery volts while he started it. He had a max/min voltmeter, so he could see how low it went.

It's a little vague right now, but he might have disabled the ignition and done this for a fixed number of seconds. I think that I saw this on motorage.com ( and I probably have it saved SOMEWHERE).

He also used a high current meter with a lab scope. This shows the compression peaks for all of the cylinders while the starter is turning over the engine. The idea was to see if there were any weak ones.

Might not be your thing, but I thought that I'd mention it. I want to try both tests as soon as I can locate my ambition

hj

 

Always the toughest thing to find right?


I like the BA7 and checked it out before posting here. I was slightly concerned by the lower ratings given it and the reasons and wasn't sure if its the best deal, price not a really big factor.

 

Midtronics makes a series of battery conductance testers. This method has pretty much replaced the traditional load testing because carbon pile testing done right requires charging all the way up, testing, and at least some charging up again.

The midtronics uses the battery voltage itself for power and (battery) doesn't need to be fully charged for accurate test. This way you don't waste time charging potentially defective batteries or trash the charging system in the truck with same. They also test starting and charging voltage, with a bright LED display. Found the cheapest starter model for about 100 bucks online eBay. This model does require knowing the CCAs of the battery before the test.Very handy, if not cheap.

Measuring voltage drop while cranking is a great method too. Just about every gee-whiz tester has an alternate method that accomplishes the same thing if you do your homework. The conductance testers use some kind of high freq AC signal to determine the health or capacity of the plates or somesuch. If you need warranty service on a battery the vendor will probably use a conductance tester to make the determination.

 

I've been checking the Midtronics products-----fortunately cost isn't my main deciding factor. While I'd not use this tester very often I'm not against having a great tool in the box whether I use it or can help someone save a few "diagnostic fee" charges.

OTC has a few nice models too but comparing them against Midtronics they seem a bit over-priced feature wise. They were once an awesome company but like so many so much of their current products are Chinese-made. Very disappointing although I'm sure Midtronics is made there too.

Several inquiries and Google searches are in motion to get the best price for the PBT-200 or 300. It would seem the PBT-300 doesn't offer a lot more than the PBT-200 but more reading is necessary I think.

 

This isn't the exact article that I was looking for, but it's a pretty good one that talsks about measuring voltage and current during startup.

Starting/charging system scope analysis | Search Autoparts

I don't know how many guys have scopes these days, but they can be pretty handy. I paid about $350 for one made by Rigol (and there are similar ones around). It's made for electronics guys and not auto techs, but it's really pretty easy to use.

hj

 

Interesting article for sure F2G----thanks for the link!

I do wonder if my typical DVM would work with the high amp current clamp though? I'll have to check into that---might be a helpful test now or in the future.

From what I read in that article though it seems the better electronic testers somewhat have the capabilities of the 'scope designed into them. Searching a few other brands I'm seeing slightly different parameter measurements being available, the cost not necessarily rising or being greatly affected by what's there or what's not.

There are a few on FleaBay I'm wactching, might spring for one of them. Still open to any other suggestions though!

 

The Fluke i410 amp clamp is set up like that but is about $200. It plugs into your DMM and I think you use the millivolt setting. You can't use an AC amp clamp on DC though, the AC one looks at the difference in field strength as the voltage builds and fades, while the DC one has to build it's own field to counter the DC field and extrapolate the amperage from the current required to counter it.

 

Indeed---I'm fully of the thought adding DC measuring capability adds significantly to the price. Have also done a search for even a generic Fluke-look alike clamp and they're all up there in price. In fact it'll be easier to spring for the Midtronics PBT-300 since an AC/DC current clamp would find little use for my auto needs.

Kinda closing in on something from Midtronics. Have seen a few from Argus "affordabally" priced but not sure they're a good choice---lost a lawsuit to Midtronics.

 

Craftsman had a DC amp clamp meter a few years back for about $130, but I haven't looked at them in some time.

 

I work on marine electrical systems for a living. In that environment battery condition is near and dear to everyone's heart. About 6 or 7 years ago I bought a Midtronics unit and am constantly thanking myself for doing so. I don't remember the model and it's too cold and rainy to go out to the work van and check. It handles a variety of battery chemistries, does a staring and charging diagnostic test, and can print out a report via a separate thermal printer.

One feature which I find quite useful is the printed report. I can do a test, give the report to the customer, and have them file it with the ship's papers for comparison purposes in future tests.

These kind of testers are more than a go/no go type of meter. They will report the actual capacity of the battery. This can be useful in replacing the battery when you want to, not when you have to because it will no longer start. If you have a 900 CCA rated battery and the tester shows 800 CCA of actual capacity you know that the end is getting near, but you can still use it for a while.

When using these meters, be aware that the report battery life is not linear. If the meter reports that a four year old battery has 75% life, it does not mean that it will last another 12 years!

 

Just scored a Midtronics PBT-300 from FleaBay---$100.33 shipped, gently used. I did find a few with printers but don't really need that capability for myself. I can see in a service-for-hire capacity that would be invaluable.

No I tend to think most well maintained street vehicle batteries are good for 7 years tops. I've used nothing but NAPA batteries the past 12 years, always the top notch series with whatever name they're calling them at the time. I've bought five different ones for my own vehicles and a friend or two, one bought in '06 that finally gave up.

Been good input from you guys and I very much appreciate your insight and advice!

 

Searching for one myself. We had one like Tom 1st posted = no good rocker switch shorted out and most of the wiring burned.
A carbon pile rheostat might be the way to go.