When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I bit the bullet and bought primer. I'll be using Summit's epoxy primer over bodywork and surrounding bare metal and paint. On top of that I'll use the high build urethane to fill any sanding scratches from the body work, and then I'll apply a two stage, base and clear Summit brand paint. I have a couple rust spots that I'll be applying por-15 rust remover to, hitting with a rotary file to remove any residual crud, and will apply a skim of bondo over that to remove the 'acne.' I'll use self etching primer on the galvanized cowling.
Once the grinder hits the first body work area, there's no turning back.
or get some muriatic acid and it will dissolve the rust to bare shiny metal.
Or use some phosphoric acid and it will convert the rust. Both are much cheaper options and with some common sense, works fantastic.
Wear PPE.
POR 15 does not like to stick to clean bare metal and will peel over time. Paint over rust.
Thanks for the response. I'm not using POR 15 paint, only their rust remover. Once the rust is gone, I'll check it real good, hit it with a rotary file and grinder, and then a thin coat of bondo covered with epoxy primer.
I'd go single stage because it looks more authentic. Plus, with the gloss you're gonna get from a clearcoat, you are going to need your bodywork to be REALLY dead-nuts straight - which means lots of guide-coat sanding.
Most body fillers will hold moisture and when they're applied directly to metal they usually cause corrosion, especially if the paint ever becomes compromised from something like a stone chip or a minor scratch. Get your metal clean, then epoxy it- 2 coats, then do your mud work on top of it. That way the metal under the mud is sealed from moisture. If you break through to bare metal when doing the mud work just epoxy it again before priming with high build. That's how we did it in the body shop.
What color will you be painting it? That's gonna decide how straight you need to make it so it looks decent.
For the armature painter single stage urethane is the best way to go. it lays out better and cuts and buffs easier.
In a perfect world all filler goes over the epoxy primer. but for most of us that's tough to do since our methods aren't an exact science. you'd have to reapply the epoxy 15 times. as long as the metal is solid and you weld all the holes so no water can come in from behind filler on bare steel will probably last as long as most of us care.
They say Summit products are mostly Sherwin Williams. same paint Napa sells.
For the armature painter single stage urethane is the best way to go. it lays out better and cuts and buffs easier.
In a perfect world all filler goes over the epoxy primer. but for most of us that's tough to do since our methods aren't an exact science. you'd have to reapply the epoxy 15 times. as long as the metal is solid and you weld all the holes so no water can come in from behind filler on bare steel will probably last as long as most of us care.
They say Summit products are mostly Sherwin Williams. same paint Napa sells.
So true except...if you are doing any metallic paint,and you plan to sand and polish,you better go with base clear as when sanding urethane metallic,the glittery stuff comes to the surface and looks like crap. Guy I know used to work at Summit said their paint was Kirker. I have shot a few cars with it and had great results.Easy to spray and good coverage.Get a good gun.
You're right, I guess when I said amateur painter I meant solid colors since few armatures won't screw up metallics. you can cut and buff single stage metallics with some success but you're right base/clear would be the way to go.
I'm an average painter at best but when I bought my Anest Iwata guns it took me up a notch or two. I didn't think a gun could make the difference it makes .
I am definitely an amateur but I practiced a little and bought a really good paint gun and my base coat/ clear coat interior and door jambs came out nice. I got pretty much no orange peel, dirt or runs. A nice gun makes a huge difference.
My last painting experience was my first "two-stage" base and clear. Was like cheating compared to a single stage, because the clear will make any substrate shiny and purdy. _ _ _ I liked it.
Here is the reason: the basecoat is not catalyzed, so indefinite pot life. That is a biggie when spraying in 102-degree temps. Because of no catalyst, the basecoat imperfections in the first or second color coat (basecoat) can be nibbed or lightly sanded until you are happy. Then you may proceed with the clearcoat which does have a catalyst which means limited pot life depending on temperature.
I did a quarter panel repair on a subaru wrx, and did like the two-stage base / clear.
Yes, I did color-sand the first color coat for smoothing. Added more reducer, and was happy w/ 2nd.
Thats all good but if you don't lay the metallic out right you'll have a mess no matter how great the clear looks. even the pro's have to work at laying out metallics. nothing like thinking you're Chip Foose until you get it out in the sunlight and see the tiger stripes and holograms.
A single stage solid it as easy to shoot as a clear . and it will cut and buff the same with no fear of cutting through the clear.. but if you must do a metallic no doubt the 2 stage will come out better for novice and pro alike. for what that's worth.
I would avoid single stages even for beginners. They are easier but it will not live as long. That is as long as you are putting in all the work to make the body right. If you are fill rust holes with Bondo it really doesn't matter what you put on it.
My dad painted a 64 ford galaxie with one of the first clears for lacquer. People told him he was nuts. He sold the car and we saw it at a car show with 300ish cars 30 years later and it won best paint... Other cars that were done single stage at the time have been repainted or were showing there age.
I would avoid single stages even for beginners. They are easier but it will not live as long. That is as long as you are putting in all the work to make the body right. If you are fill rust holes with Bondo it really doesn't matter what you put on it.
My dad painted a 64 ford galaxie with one of the first clears for lacquer. People told him he was nuts. He sold the car and we saw it at a car show with 300ish cars 30 years later and it won best paint... Other cars that were done single stage at the time have been repainted or were showing there age.
Nothing really shines like a perfect polished lacquer finish. The problem is it oxidizes easily and needs constant attention to keep it that way....so let's shoot some clear over it to keep that shine .Clear lacquer oxidizes and yellows fairly quickly so that's out. How about acrylic urethane clear? A couple things here.Sprayed over fresh lacquer,there's a good chance that it will lift and there's no actual chemical bond between the 2 paints.If you let the lacquer fully cure,and I mean weeks if not months,then scuff it up and shoot urethane clear over it,It will stick but be a mechanical bond.Cut and polish and it will look fantastic with minimum maintenance.Your dad knew what he was doing but I'm guessing he was trying to prove a point.I have been around a long time and never heard of a clear specifically for lacquer.Now days,there would be no point because of the advancement of BCCC.The best paint award was won because of the painter and the paint job,not the merits of the paints themselves.Everything in automotive paint has changed and is changing.No metallic and no exotics...single stage for the win IMO.
