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My 2004 6.0l overheats, seems to be related to using the tow/haul mode. Is there any known issue with fan shutting off when put in how/haul? It overheats, then when I start it back up after cooling off it cools rest of way and is fine. I recently hauled 2 horses, dropped one off, returned the other, then headed home. Put it in tow/haul when I was on the steeper portion of ride home, it overheated, pulled over and shut down, waited for it to get to about 1/2 way between red zone and middle of gauge, started back up, it cooled to the normal range and was fine, even when maneuvering into a difficult parking area, lots of forward and reverse maneuvers.
How do you know it's over heating? Because the dash gauge is tell you it is? Or do you have other symptons? Do you have a way to monitor the engine parameters such as a bluetooth dongle connected to an app on a smart phone? If not lets see about getting a phone based app and a bluetooth adapter and get some numbers. There are a few available and sometimes the app is free.
If it IS getting that hot the fan should be howling at you and quite noticeable by the noise. It's possible you have a bad fan clutch. But, it's also possible a sensor is bad or the engine has mods that are interfering with the fan operation. Are there any mods? Take a look at this article to help you learn about what we will talk about here in your thread. Forscan is prolly the best out there right now. B.
I have steam and gauge indications, not to mention water loss from reservoir. I do have a good phone app and dongle which indicate the same thing I see. I am not hearing any excessive fan noise during overheat incidents. We have flushed system, new gaskets and o rings on HPOP, oil cooler, put in new HPOP, all new injectors, rebuilt turbo, new radiator, new reservoir cap. I put cardboard under engine area to monitor any oil or water leaks. After the most recent work, we monitored fan operation, when I put it in tos haul had noticeable difference in fan output, much lower. It did not change when I turned off tow/haul, but when I turned off engine then restarted, fan was back at same airflow.
Check your temps as Hartwig suggested, using the Forscan app. Normal ECT may be as low as 195 -200 unloaded, but when towing, 200-220. By 220 the fan should be at full go and will be quite loud and very noticeable. If this is not the case then you likely need a new fan clutch. First however, make sure your EGR valve is connected, If the EGR valve is not hooked up it can cause a cooling fan malfunction. You may also want to test and/or replace the pressure cap on the de-gas bottle and the engine thermostat. Good Luck, Russ
Coolant loss can come from head gasket leaking that adds combustion gas to the coolant. You need a pressure gauge on one of the small hoses that feed the degas bottle.
In addition to the good advice above, you need to pressure test the cap on the degas bottle. Even if it is new, the degas cap can be weak and "vent" at a pressure below the setpoint (which is around 14 psig.
Also, what coolant are you using and how full do you keep the degas bottle?