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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Clutch not working correctly after engine replacement.

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Old Dec 16, 2021 | 05:42 PM
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Clutch not working correctly after engine replacement.

Hey everyone,
I have a 1987 F250 with a 460 and a 4-speed tranny. I just replaced the engine and while I was there, I installed a new clutch, pressure plate, bearings, and resurfaced the flywheel. I just got it fired up earlier today, and I am having issues with the clutch. I am only able to disengage the engine from the transmission when I am literally standing on the clutch pedal. The travel of the pedal feels off, it seems like there is far too much "dead space" in the range of motion, where the pedal is not actually engaging anything. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this could be happening? If so, please let me know.
Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 16, 2021 | 08:14 PM
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Most likely cause is air in the hydraulic linkage. They can be a bugger to get the last bit of air out.
Next in line would be worn parts in the clutch linkage parts, followed by flex in the firewall (unlikely if it was working before the engine swap.)
 
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Old Dec 16, 2021 | 08:25 PM
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How much did you take off the flywheel?

I've read several long stories about having to shim the throwout bearing to get it closer to the flywheel after surfacing. If everything else proves out, consider that. The firewall flex is a big item in this era as well.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2021 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 85e150
How much did you take off the flywheel?

I've read several long stories about having to shim the throwout bearing to get it closer to the flywheel after surfacing. If everything else proves out, consider that. The firewall flex is a big item in this era as well.
Truthfully, I have no idea how much the machine shop took off of the flywheel. It was not particularly marred up when I took it in though, so they should not have had to remove much to get a perfectly clean surface. I'd be surprised if firewall flex was the culprit, as the clutch worked 2 weeks ago when I had the old engine in...
 
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Old Dec 16, 2021 | 08:37 PM
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I did not undo any hydraulic lines when I replaced everything... Do you think there still could have been a chance for air to get into the lines?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2021 | 08:53 PM
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I did not undo any hydraulic lines
Not likely that air entered if you didn't open the lines, although I think I remember when I pulled a slave cylinder (still hooked up to lines), the plunger pushed out and I ended up bleeding the system.
I would enlist a helper to work the pedal while you look for slop in the system. Doesn't take much, and maybe combined with flywheel surfacing, is enough to cause your problem.
I'm guessing shimming a throw out bearing will require removing the trans, so I would eliminate all other possibilities first, cause I'm somewhat lazy.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by cooksmtn
I did not undo any hydraulic lines
Not likely that air entered if you didn't open the lines, although I think I remember when I pulled a slave cylinder (still hooked up to lines), the plunger pushed out and I ended up bleeding the system.
I would enlist a helper to work the pedal while you look for slop in the system. Doesn't take much, and maybe combined with flywheel surfacing, is enough to cause your problem.
I'm guessing shimming a throw out bearing will require removing the trans, so I would eliminate all other possibilities first, cause I'm somewhat lazy.
My dad ended up finding the issue. Some sort of bushing had come out of place in the clutch pedal assembly. After he popped it back in and did some adjusting, the pedal works as usual now. Still feels like garbage compared to the cars I am used to driving, but much better than it was haha.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jackhunter
My dad ended up finding the issue. Some sort of bushing had come out of place in the clutch pedal assembly. After he popped it back in and did some adjusting, the pedal works as usual now. Still feels like garbage compared to the cars I am used to driving, but much better than it was haha.
The clutch pedal bushing is a common issue. Was the bushing cracked or severely degraded? Or the Dorman aftermarket replacement ones are also known to pop out.

I'd pop the bushing out again and check the pin that it travels on for wear. That part of the assembly is replaceable. If it was run with a bad/missing bushing at some point in the past, that pin may be mis-shapen due to metal on metal contact.

Glad you found the issue, but just being cautious and thinking ahead here...it could be dangerous if it pops out while on the road.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2021 | 10:10 PM
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After a similar experience, I ordered 3 Motorcraft bushings from some Ford dealer out of state. The O'Reilly's bushings I was trying to put in there were absolute crap and popped on me after only a couple days' service. I've had a Motorcraft back in there for almost a year now and it's fine (the other two are in the glove box in case this one fails on the road haha)
 
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