In a recent post I made."Another IPR"I mentioned this was the third one in four years
I cleaned debris out of the old one put it back in truck and have it running
As mentioned I am taking truck apart to replace Oil cooler ,the screen and new IPR.

Anyway do I need to,,,or is there a way to flush the oil passage to make sure there isn't anything else to get into my Ipr.

I have a new "genuine ford from my local dealer" Ipr,oil cooler,cooler screen,water pump and thermostat I'm going to replace so I want to make sure everything is clear

 

Hot tank and rodding out the passages. If you can't do that, try to use a brush like a gun cleaning kit would have to make sure you don't have stuff in the passages.

 

Jack (TooManyToys) had posted something about this recently. It is described in the manual .
I can unfortunately no longer remember the post in which it was to read.

 

The procedure is no different then I what I first read about before I was a teenager in Hot Rod magazine, which would have been 60 years ago. And done well before that. I do it even when I've gotten a machined block or head back from the machine shop. The Ford "parts replacer" manual does not cover it; but the Navistar service manual does.




While it only shows the mains, I've also have done the galleys to the bearings and anywhere else, although that size brush can be hard to find. You can get a generic brush kit from Harbor Freight or the best solution is to buy a gun cleaning kit. I think the HF kit has small ones.

This is just an example, not a recomendation.

 

Since you are not disassembling the engine the cleaning brush procedure won't help and might do more harm than good. FWIW, I would add a gallon or two of diesel fuel to the crankcase and run the engine for 5 minutes or so to flush it out and then start my parts replacement. Install new fresh oil and filter and you should be good to go.

 

Are you going to remove the HPOP?

 

I hadnt planned on it,but if its necessary I can ,because Im trying to prevent this from happening again.

 

No telling if it is necessary or not, but you can flush the path from the oil cooler sump to the HPOP. Might not be a bad idea.

 

I just saw Hartwig's post; didn't see he was taking the block out. There is no way to brush out the lower galleries without having the block and crank out.

 

No reason you couldn't clean and flush that passage I wouldn't think, but it would require removal of the HPOP. That being said I don't get where the debris bothering your IPR would be coming from since that resevoir is only supposed to get filtered Oil. Unless maybe that screen is coming apart.

 

Under first start cold conditions most oil filters are bypassed while the oil viscosity is high. The HPOP screen should catch everything unless it tears

 

I Find it interesting you said this, I've been in other forums where this gets debated and the consensus is that little to no bypassing occurs (Gas not diesel forums). Have you actually gone to the trouble or seen the testing that actually documents this? I would tend to believe it with these 6.0s due to the fact that so much happens to the IPR valves. If the HPOPs were sending all that crap they would be going out all the time I would think.

 

The screen may be bad,haven't gotten it torn down yet
Either way Im replacing the screen and oil cooler.
just want to do all I can to try and prevent this from happening again

 

If I have time in the morning, maybe I'll post more on "my speculation," it's been a long day. All the posts on the internet are speculative, I've not seen a report from a designer on the subject, but I don't hang in the lubrication forums. If he were still alive, I'd be asking George Morison, formerly of AV Lube.

To measure it, you would have to lock out the bypass valve at the top of the stack and real pressure gauges at the test port and where the oil pressure switch is. People have reported 75 psi (the oil pump relieve value) at cold start and around 15psi under hot idle. The cold engine idle is a factor. That's a pretty damn good Delta. Bearing clearances haven't changed that much, piston cooling jets haven't, and the oil filter media doesn't change. Oil viscosity does, the Delta of pouring cold engine oil into the funnel compared to the hot engine oil being drained is well observed.

The typical oil system does not have many contaminants in it, so short-term bypass is not going to be a significant concern. Why do they have oil filter bypass valves; to not blow out the media. Most go with if the media is filled with debris. I was told at a young age it also is under cold temps. If people have the same view or not, I really don't care.

So some interesting stuff, maybe only to me. Occasionally we see people have the filter element blown out. It happened a few times on FTE, once to Bill (Per4mance). It was all about the crappy construction of Motorcraft filters. Yet there was no rash of filters going bad, a production batch. It could also be the oil pressure relief valve getting stuck for all possibilities. We see them go bad and say they all fail open. Has anyone tested if they can fail closed?

Then I have my engine. A reman, when looking at the one main bearings, some debris gouged out the bearing. I never lost a lifter, and it was a one-and-done based on the other bearings. I surmise at the initial engine start with cold oil. The oil pump gears show that some material made it through. Sometimes I check the 20-micron oil filter pleats, and sometimes I don't. Removing the oil cooler, my screen had non-metallic bearing material on it. Being the stainless screen, it didn't break through on my IPR screen had nothing on it. So how did that lightweight, non-metallic bearing material get onto the HPOP screen - through the 20-micron filter. Hitting the media is a 90º turn from the input, and with all that filter surface area, the bearing material is not going to have the energy to pierce through. So how during that first cold start of the engine did the bearing material end up at the HPOP screen. In my mind, only with the bypass valve opening.

If anyone wants to screw around with their engine, be my guest by installing the pressure sensors (easy) and blocking the bypass valve. I don't need to take a chance of filter media ending up going through the HPOP.

I'm tired; I'm cranky (some would say that's a permanent condition); I'm going to bed.

 

I tested the oil pressure at the oil filter housing cap on a 6.0. In this video you see at min 1:01 the oil pressure is 70psi. The question for me is whether at this pressure the complete oil quantity goes the way through the filter, or not yet a part of the oil flows through the bypass valve.