My ABS light is on (not flashing) and there are no ABS related codes.

The 20-amp fuse is good and the fluid level in the master cylinder is good.

Where can I find more troubleshooting information?

ADVthanksANCE

-Jack

 

What truck are you working on?

 

ABS codes, actually RABS, are not flashed out by the PCM (computer). Follow this procedure to retrieve any stored RABS codes: RABS Flashout Codes

 

Take your front tires off and take the sensors out of the knuckles if equipped and take all of the lil metal and magnetite particles also sluffed off brake material then look down the sensor hole and look at the sensing grid too it maybe caked up between the straitions and need a powerblast of compressed air....

Take the sensor out of the rearend housing or rearwheel bearings and de metal them too......

Then disconnect the battery drain down eec for 20 mins then start the truck then turn on all accessories to high while idling to introduce a full load to calibrate EEC by for 2 mins then reduce load after 2 mins and drive moderately for 10 mines to reset EEC and see if code returns..

Once they build up with magnetite which is a natural material in asphalt and they throw codes when the magnetite fills the airgaps and causes contact while spinning which causes the fault......

Sometimes a hub bearing goes bad too and the wheel angles to the side when riding and when braking is forced the wheel will actually recenter itself causing the grid to strike the sensor and damage it when the brake is released and the wheel reangles again....\

A new sensor comes with a new hub bearing too........Prepare to pay some coin too if you do have hub bearings......

Dont cheap out either or youll get a grumbling in your frontend....buy premium hub bearings and do the other side too or it will happen soon after too.......

If you dont have a frontend like described above and if you have rear drums try adjusting them according to a repair manual preferrably one Licensed by Ford then do the bleeddown /relearn procedure outlined above and see what happens..........Sometimes its a sticky rear wheel cylinder in the rearbrake or even semi-collapsed brake hoses will cause it too.........

You can also try taking off the front calipers and clean up the sliders and knuckles where they meet and slide together plus pins that hold them in-place and apply antiseize.......

If you have discs on the rear remove the brake calipers and cleanup caliper sliders on the calipers and apply antiseize

When I do a brakejob I clean up the whole entire area of brake material buildup especially in the rear when I inspect the rearwheel bearings.................I also buy brand new brake hardware...Its cheap and the springs are brand new tension..

Some people aswell as some mechanics too like that the springs have weakened and dont realize you dont get accurate rear brakes that return quick either......

Rear drumbrakes are put under extreme heat and the springs get weak and they dont work as intended so changing the hardware each time ensures proper brake activation aswell as deactivation...LOL

When I do brakes on vehicles w/ removeable caliper brackets I replace those too as theyre prone to warpage ..........

I change the brake hoses too which thers a 100% rightway and a 100% wrong way to do brakes and I stand by that statement too...

Just changing the rotors and pads is only 1/3 the battle ......Picture a brand new truck.and how the brake system and related components was brand new from zero miles and how good it drove...All that extra stuff that gets attached o it adds weight and helps collect heat too like, time, brakedust and wear robs that from ever returning or ever being again......

Kind of like a person aging but good part about cars n trucks is you can reverse that with a lil money and plenty of knowhow and ability.......A 50yr old is unlike an 18 yr old in most cases even when theyre in pretty good shape but dont eat too healthy so he has to work extra hard to stay that way and always needs new shoes and has ankle issues..[except for me that is]...Sure they can improve with finally eating right getting some joint surgeries aswell as maybe a spinal fix that rejuvenates them into feeling similar to 18 again at times...

Kind of like the overlooked parts and extra steps required to do the job 100% right and your vehicle now needs..Those extra steps are the actual rejuvenation...LOL.......LOL.

Did you know that our knuckles are considered a wear item and must be changed when warped or worn because they also have a slider base for the caliper built into the casting and that when you replace the knuckle the spindle unscrews and is put in the new knuckle??

Did you know theres a max width you can have between them and the caliper too and when too wide you have to change the knuckles and calipers or have knuckles welded and milled back to specs plus put new calipers too...?

Even the rearend backing plate that holds and protects the rear brakepads warp and has a wear limit too where the rear pads scrub up on it and needs replacement every 250k or when they dont conform to specs.........All it takes is a lil misalignment from warpage and wear here and there and it adds up big with shoes and pads that dont properly align with the drums or rotors and wears the shoes n pads out in an incorrect also a premature manner..........

Ever notice or wonder how stuff like brakes lasted past 100k when the car was brand new until replaced for the first time then dont last 20k?....Its not entirely the quality of the pads n shoes as a fault or a result..................LOL..

Even though stuff appears good to the eye it must be verified with correctly calibrated tools using certified methods to be absolutely correct and certain you did the job correctly and with-in OEM specifications to obtain factory like effects with similar longevity time instead of the illiterate way which is the way we have all become accustomed to doing it...Noone has ever read a real technical book I see and rely on Chiltons and the others not official ford that costed like $150 back in the days...Chiltons is alot cheaper they all say and choose that and in the end the constant repairs costs them way more as a result in making that choice too....LOL....

Thats why people get tired and buy new cars and leave the problems for us dolts because no mechanicin his right mind is gonna take thetime to read the tech specs of every car and do it then justify that to the billling.....>...LOL...a seemingly simple brake job would cost about 500-$1000 per wheel depending on how efficient he is....LOL....LOL...

Its failure to read proper technical aspects and following through correctly....I dedicate a full day to doing the brakes and I also replace the brakefluid speaking of which is quite importnt and degrades too so it needs regular flushings too and a 1man brake bleeder tool with handpump is the tool for that task aswell as knowing you start at the longest brakeline routing point which is always rear right tire working up to least distanced one.....People w/ horror stories didnt change the brake hoses and dont have the correct tools and arent using the right methods

Did you know theres a hydraulic ram tool that rebends I beams in the front end to conform to specs again?

Do you know that once you increase braking abilities again you will transfer that to the radius arm cushions aswell as the I-Beam pivot bushings too?






Every 100k I do drums rotors wheel cylinders calipers and brake booster..........









Good Luck

 

As stated in my first reply the PCM has no connection to the RABS system on these trucks. If the OP wants to go down another one of your bunny holes that is their choice but the outcome will remain the same, i.e. they will most likely still have a yellow ABS lamp illuminated in the dash.

And to add more information these trucks do not have front wheel sensors for the Rear Anti-lock Brake System (RABS). Only the rear axle sensor is used for RABS operation before continuing on to the PSOM to feed the speedometer/odometer, speed control and computer (PCM).

 

a bronco could have 4wheel

 

The truck listed in the OP's profile is a 1996 F150 so I did assume that was the vehicle in question. If I am wrong then I will assume all responsibility for the RABS information. Broncos got 4 Wheel ABS starting in 1993 so AuroraGirl is correct. But that is also a standalone system. We'll see if that is the case here.

 

It is the '96 F150 Eddie Bauer 4.9L 2wd as listed in my profile.

I thought it was in my posting sig as well. But apparently not.

Thanks for the link, rla2005. I'll go check it out.

Quick update question: How do I confirm power at the RABS computer? In other words, where is it?

 

The fact the yellow ABS lamp turns on means the RABS controller has power. Look at this info for RABS components locations (courtesy of Steve83): RABS_RABS-II Components Locations

 

OK dude I guess you should buy a disc get off the forum and spend atleast 6 months reading......

I never heard mention of a possible ABS module failure...but those show on the scanner too..................When the balance in the system is tilted the ABS doesnt know what to do when it cant return like it usd to and in the fashion it was intended...These are facts..

Look at #1 of KOER TEST...2000 rpm's 2 mins then #2 regular load.......MMMMMM I wonder why they are worded as so....LOL

Ask any tech if a voltage spike or interruption WILL throw a CODE and they will say YES..

Ask them if disconecting the batttery is the preferred way to get rid of it and they will say SURE.....

Then theres voltage recalibrations the EEC MUST RELEARN so it doesnt dip too low and THERMALLY OVERLOAD and cause GHOST SYMPTOMS....ASK IF TRUE THEYLL SAY YUP.

Then ask if all cars have a relearn procedure and theyll say of coarse......

Then ask if disconnecting battery is first choice to getting rid of the customer saying they found zip then if it returns they are confronted by an angry customer and also know theres a definate problem now.......Go on brand new car websites and READ THE SERVICE REVIEWS of CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS from being treated like a YO YO.............LOL

Then tell them what you said to me and theyll laugh if theyre a REAL KNOWLEDGEABLE tech...........................

Because thats who I am...............I see who you are..................LOL

 

Who are you judge and jury...?...You know jack about service limits n such....You doont even know about magnetite and what it does........LOL


Go back put out down the beer, extinguish the cig n read my entire post it covers a vastness in the topic and it ALL has merit and points you are obviously oblivious to............LOL.

Start here and read everything related to HOW THE EEC-IV SYSTEM WORKS......

http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/pdf/ford_eectch98.pdf

 

I just found this unattached connector looking around for the RABS items.

The wires are black, green/white stripe, and yellow.

Can anyone identify this?

Thanks, y'all.

 

KOER TEST>>>>>>>>>>>READ #6....Why do they say to hit the brakes while turning wheel?????????????????

Id truley love to hear the explaination................

 

That is the connector for the master cylinder I think.. Might be why your ABS is acting up?

 

pretty sure there is a recall to eliminate that for a fire risk