Everything was fine, I was running the AC, got to where I was going and shut the truck off. Went in the store came back out went to turn the AC back on, nothing. After I got home I got out and made sure, AC compressor was still turning, I just redid the AC system not long ago. Turn the truck off leaving the key in the run position, and turn the blower motor on, nothing. So unplug the harness going to the blower motor and put my volt meter on it and it is getting 12.6 volts with it set to face on max. All fine and dandy but I plug the motor back in and nothing. In the cab you can hear a grinding noise every now and again if you try to switch the motor on and off. Unfortunately I think my blower motor shut the bed. Im just about to roll 420,000 miles so I guess it's to be expected for little things like this. Even though I know it I figured I would ask anyway there is nothing else that can stop that blower motor from working unless something is stuck inside of it or the motors burned up is there?

 

Mine just burnt up too. If it doesnt blow on high only its likely the blower motor, if it runs fine only on high its likely the rheostat. At that mileage it is a good idea to replase the rheostat, its pigtail(though you are down south far from my rust belt) and a new blower motor.

You can get just ann oem blower motor without the scroll cage for like $47 on amazon, but can only reuse a oem scrollcage, aftermarket ones wont work, so you have to know which blower assembly is in your tuck, oem or aftermarket.
The blower is easy enough to remove, I find taking out the little vacuum pump helps a lot.

Pics coming soon.

Oem blower link

 

Old blower and new rheostat with new pigtail

 

Save this, most aftermarket blower assemblies dont include it

 

Napa rheostat and pigtail connector

 

Napa blower assembly

 

Okay so here's what's weird. The OEM blower motor you showed me, the wiring harness plugs directly into it. On my truck there is a pigtail coming off of the blower motor to the wiring harness where it plugs into the wiring harness.


This probably means it's aftermarket I would assume??

 

I had to replace my blower motor a couple years ago and put in a aftermarket. Was glad to have my AC back but it did not seem to blow as strong so recently installed a motorcraft blower motor and it is blowing much stronger now. Just something to keep in mind if you do replace the blower motor. I'm sure not all aftermarket motors are the same and some may do just fine but figured I would share my experience. The good thing is that the blower motors are super easy to replace

 

Looks to be aftermarket with the extra little pigtail for the plug

 

The closest NAPA is a ways away. I have an advanced, and o'reilly's, and an AutoZone right next to me. I have good people in advanced so I will probably get it there. I wanted to go with a Ford OEM but I believe I have an aftermarket unit and I cannot find the blower fan anywhere for an oem unit so I will just get a unit like this from advanced probably with a new Resistor and what not.
I'm going to go see if advanced can get me an oem unit with a fan already on it or separate. I will go ahead and get the resistor tonight if they have it.

 

2C3Z19834AA should be scroll cage

5C3Z18456E should be complete blower with scroll


All this assuming googlefu skills are workin this evening

 

It is actually three discrete resistors in a single assembly, not a variable resistor.

 

Tristan leave the key on engine off.

Pop hood and tap the blower motor with screwdriver handle or something. If it runs a minute then just replace the blower motor.

I put in O'Reilly's blower motor and resistor last summer.

 

20 year old rheostat/plug connection