So I inherited my father’s truck 6 years ago. He had it loaned out when he passed and the guy who had it was upset I wouldn’t let him have it. So he made sure I couldn’t use it. The truck is anything special but it has sentimental value to me.

1991 f-150 300 4.9 115k

so it was towed home and put in the barn and just sat for years. I started working on it 3 months ago. To date I’ve replaced both fuel pumps, fuel filter. Cleaned both tanks and new sending units. Complete new tune up (a mouse ate one wire so I replaced everything) completely new distributor and dress out on and in it and a new ecm. New oil change and air filter. New belts.

Current issue is no pulse single and no power from the ignition switch in the cab to the solenoid. It will start and run on Starting fluid but dies once I stop spraying. Fuel pressure is 58 on front tank and 60 on the back.

any advice would be appreciated

 

so it wont... crank?


you replaced a lot of things..... you probably made a mistake when you "replaced everything" when a mouse ate a single wire.

What solenoid

Youre not getting fuel. is your fuel pump relay good, swap it around.

Key on doesnt buzz the pump?

 

Your fuel pressure is normal for the 4.9. About all I can help with is to check the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Try your starting fluid again and after it dies pull the vent hose off of the FPR and check if you see fuel or the strong smell of fuel. If you do, that could be your issue. If you hear the fuel pump running for a second or two when you turn the key on but not to start and you didn't put the fuel filter in backwards which I don't think either is the case you are ok there. Next would be fuel injectors if the FPR is good. Someone will chime it to tell you how to check those. First check that FPR as it is suspect.
EDIT: Did you get an exact matching number for your ECM?

 

Sounds like you have a fuel issue. IF your pressure reading are on the rail when you did your test that's all good. It will run on starter fluid along as you spray it. SO timing and spark seam good. Sounds like injector pulse? or plugged? Check for voltage pulse at injectors. Can use a test light here. IF no pulse possible ground wire missing for injector circuit.

From what you have said My guess is final fuel delivery to chamber. Few tests will help tell if so and weather its electrical or mechanical.

I would guess the other guy unplugged the harness or a ground wire. Something easy to do, easy to undo and make it non-running.

 

Some people can be real sinister.........LOL

Also have you removed injectors and tested them with a fuel injection tester?Testers are cheap on ebay and amazonand easy to make a makeshift one too......Noid lights help too

If all injectors are frozen you can blow up capacitors in the ECU..When I mess with a vehicle thats sat a longtime I drain tanks change fuel filter and put lots of transmission fluid in the new fuel...I remove the injectors and soak them in trans fluid mixed with brake fluid and silicone spray...Sometimes I soak them in EvapoRust afterwards too.........

Then I test them and put them back in.....Charge the fuel system up and fire it off.............

Heres a link for new ones...A tip too...make sure all the o-rings come out with the injectors because if one sticks in the fuelrail it will become a battle against darwinism until you realize where it all went wrong when that lightbulb goes ;-BING.........LOL

Heres a link for upgraded flow ones that are super cheap....Its comparable to the 19's upgraded to 24's I had in my 351w too....Theyll work no problem.....Too bad you already changed the pumps because a 255lph would of complimented the truck alot better...........

If I was you and Auroragirl Id jump on this deal for improved power................

https://www.ebay.com/itm/293026682202?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110 006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D23587 2%26meid%3Da65e81ccc14c4ae3bee2482072d41d0d%26pid% 3D101195%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D194384704533%2 6itm%3D293026682202%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D204 7675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWebMskuAspectsV202 110NoVariantSeedWithPLXV2Ranker%26brand%3DOE%2B&_t rksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A293026 682202a65e81ccc14c4ae3bee2482072d41d0d%7Cenc%3AAQA GAAACIHXn5AjG7EDLd8nRr3mqBHSB%252FfF4USxiEs9hM6yCu ftaYLzIM%252Fx8EJ%252FgUmcIUQ0N8MoraMQA8XjMoxJVRGz hXs8e9bH53Mbe6Wmv1HgFS5IzhE8ZLBfTPU8ESe8q6deWLEptP PRlo%252FAWLAe1Ig7cdb0Q7XHZM3Pr%252Bpt6M8KPe8w7tCi 60dGAAFxiYQ0drIiB27634A0Lh9n%252BwrNHc5S2o%252FOhj 1KCizGGi%252FURkLsXqFrPpEdpzKTUi4Z7eX5tuqD%252Bk8V tL351ZjV9yZYUMPLWH%252B8X74OkuCKUf6qO2B2WQ5kZ1%252 FdRkX2WCYGW9fHmWd5H11luVfryi6vRhyizIeDElU2sHOVzVme YUU%252B1%252FC3U8L1Y1i0cKvEYYPL%252F%252FS7gz2Xaa FaGUodxWO4BXVNW8mD9iydt8b6QtqYVu09QE2BRkuL0vmyJe HozAiM0v7pNvjsKie663J%252Fuqr%252FdZ2oXHODwBB%252B WC5S%252FW5daYWF6cXqfkL3bckRVBrL8QjKBWLehy1ia0H903 t2db7WnRIfDGd%252BGx%252FOf7Axg%252F0hTqX%252BW1pd zQc2yoeFnRloEppe4jTIhHi%252FqyaYhehozc0V30MAzK6ryz q9bq2mQvvZbOdjLIVPVMj0stymhY8TcFdLsThDPt5M%252FIWr gFEPlcyIx%252FlOqfwTWAQKqvJvIzFA1UetuFISE4QXfa7K I5Me33OYqONtuk9P%252BibTSaz1Y%252BH0EFfQ3YPQ%253D% 7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675&epid=12009352017





Look at this crappy yellowtop...Still good on the ohms test but they didnt spray and if I would of tried would of definately fried ..............LOL

OHMs value range for a good injector is 12-16 ohms..........



Another tip for testing too is this....See the lil hole on both side of this yellowtop?..Thats the DMM tester probe holes so you can test injectors with the engine running.........

A good cleaning with the sonic ability of the tester, a new seal kit w/pintle cap and it was ready to rock n roll once again....LOL

 

How are you starting this thing ? Are you jumping the solenoid on the fender?

From what I can finalize from what ive read it sounds like the column switch is bad......If it was replaced it may not be aligned correctly...The screws can be loosened and switch adjusted...

 

has op verified the safety switch for an accident isnt tripped
that cuts fuel

its somewhere in the cabin prob behind a cover or hidden up under dash out of direct sight.

 

I would be inclined to believe the inertia switch is ok since fuel psi is good.

Sounds like injectors aren't pulsing due to either a wiring problem, PCM issue, fuel injectors seized with moisture. If the truck sat for any length of time, and fuel that was in the lines would create varnish and worst yet, if the truck had been running with any ethanol type blended fuel, there is sure to be rust in the fuel rail on the manifold. Also, the FPR(fuel pressure regulator) would be compromised.

I would pull the fuel rail, and inspect the injectors and the FPR. You might want to just replace the FPR if you go that far.

I've come across injectors that have seized due to rust from sitting and not being used.

Just a few other good ideas to consider with others comments too.

 

There is no pulse signal to the injectors.

 

I planned on changing the injectors but that’s after I get it running. Lot’s of things that’s went bad setting. Master cylinder is shot. 2 blown break lines to name a few. The current goal is to get it running as it should.

 

Is there power getting to the injectors with the key in Run and Start position? That power comes from the EEC relay on a red wire to all injectors. Rodents tend to like chewing the injector wires and connectors. If you have power then check the return side for the ground the computer sends to each set of batch fired injectors.

Injectors 1,4,5,8 are triggered by the tan wire by the computer. Injectors 2,3,6,7 are triggered by the white wire.

Diagram

 

Ok I’m getting voltage on both sides of the injector terminals. Well the 3 I checked where energize with the key on. With the key off both sides showed grounded. Just messing around I unplugged the brand new distributor and now I’m getting nothing to the distributor. Unfortunately I’ve turned in the old distributor for a core already. The new one was so cheep (64.00) I’m questioning the pick up coil and module now.

on a bright side I did figure out the no voltage to the solenoid. The shifter has to be pulled all the way up with tension for the neutral safety switch. I’ll adjust that correctly later on once I get the injector issue figured out. Not starting in my highest priority at the moment.

I did fun an entire can of starter fluid threw it today. I just wanted to hear it run for a bit.

 

test your PIP, and TFI
see links
Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
Part 5 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)

 

its a distributor mounted module.

 

Distributor Mounted TEST ICM
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...module-tests-1